I will work on it when I return from my trip...

 

I wanted to wait till I installed a temp gauge for that very reason but just didn't workout that way for me lol. I did use a digital temp reading as far as in and out of the crash bar but I forgot what the numbers where but it worked good enough for me. I can't say it is as affective as a regular cooler but I know it does help. I did it because I like the looks better personally and it does a good enough job for me.

 

It actually sounds like a good idea, I just never heard of this before. I agree a filter would be a nescessity.

 

FYI, Saturday I road 200plus miles the out side temp was 80 degrees when I got home I immediately checked the head bolt near the spark plug was 296 degrees, the return hose of my engine guard oil cooler on my 05 RoadGlide,was 154 degrees.

 

I would use Safekleen or similar automotive parts cleaner to flush it. We used it clean the oil lines and coolers on our race cars after fabricating them and between each race.

 

maybe thats why the Harley oil cooler sits very low relative to the engine......prevents air from accumalating as a result of oil flow back....it would be a pretty long dry start if the cooler (or crash bar) had to refill with oil at each startup.

maybe using the crashbar as a reserve fuel tank would be a better idea....it's below the gas tank so you would not have to worry about air.

 

My engine guard was shinny clean inside not a peck of rust. Once I had drilled an taped it was easy to tap and shake out the shavings. But to make sure I poured a quart of diesel though it while draining it through a white T-shirt and a magnet over a paint bucket caught a few small specks. Got zero specks the 2nd time. The left side fills up then drains then drains down the return side. Put 16,000 sense adding the cooler with zero issues. Even in winter the left side gets too hot to hold. Been running Mobil 1 20-50 went to change it but it still looked like honey so I did not change the oil but did change the HD filter. Harleys shave a bunch of metal so changing that filter frequently it critical. Two Grey Beards schooled me, thermostats fail and when they fail in the closed position cooking your engine and oil cooler help your motor last. Why add 4 connections and four points of failure? Hope this was informative and answered some questions. Oh yeah I'm not a vendor. Y'all have a great summer riding.

 

I've been doing this crash bar trick since 1974. It just simply works & works great.
Mobile One 20W50 & H-D or Wix filters. Forget about needing a thermostat, just hook the crash bar (enging guard) up to an adapter after a good flush.
The oil will run cool in the summer & warm enough in the winter.

 

No cooling when the bike is not moving.

This is just ignorant. Heat "radiates" off of the surface into the air. You know like the RADIATORS in homes.

The HD oil cooler adds a significant amount of surface area to radiate heat off of. Of course it is more when moving. But just like the engine cases, oil bag, heads and even frame when it gets heat soaked give off heat when standing still. Those engine guards will provide additional surface area to dissipate heat when standing or moving.

The other false info is the oil needs to be 212 or more to boil the water off.
What? Do you mean the hot cylinder walls, piston and heads that run at very high temps do not do the job when oil contacts them?

How on earth did water cooled cars running 180 degree stats every get rid of the moisture in the oil. The oil does not have to be 212. The parts that it comes in contact with are a lot hotter and boil the moisture out.

 

moving oil thru a pipe uses convention to transfer heat from the liquid to the metal pipe. not much you can do to increase convention other than use thinner fluid. thinner fluid has higher heat transfer than thick fluid. once the pipe gets hot, radiation kicks in to transfer heat from the pipe to the air. the efficiency of radiation factors on BTU related considerations. dry air holds less BTU's than humid air. once the local air has absorbed the BTU limit based on the type of air, to get more radiation going, you have to move away the air which has already absorbed it's BTU capacity and replace it with air that can absorb more BTU's. Moving a bike forward will do this. if the bike i not moving, and you want to increase the transfer of heat from the pipe , you can use forced air to replace the air that has already absorbed it's BTU rating with air that has plenty of BTU capacity.