Switch to synthetic at the first oil change. It won't hurt anything. As for BMW's, you must be talking about bikes, because my wife's car came with full synthetic from the factory. More and more vehicles come from the factory with full synthetics. Doesn't the SE line come from the MoCo with full synthetics??

 

At 1000 miles...

 

The great oil debate continues.

Put motor oil in the motor.
Gear lube in the gear box.
Wet clutch compatiblelubricant in the primary.

Pick a brand...any brand....just change it and the filter like the manual says and all will be fine.

What kind of beer is better? That's the kind of debate I like.

 

Amsoil or, Mobil 1....

 

No one has mentioned Redline yet so I guess I will stick up for them in the great oil debate Redline 20-50 in motor, heavy with shock proof for tranny, and vtwin primary in the primary.

All of the choices metioned above (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline) are great oils and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. ALL are better (way better) than SYN3 imo.

 

Yeah, if you check my first post I said what you said - Mobil 1, Amsoil or Redline all great oils. But I agree completely. In fact, I may switch to Redline the tranny. With Mobil 1 in the tranny, the clutch catches a little different and it's just a little bit harder to find neutral, though after 2500 miles it's getting much easier.

And, again, agree way better than Syn 3..

 

I change over to amsoil after 800 miles
20-50 eng
10-40 primary
75-90 gear oil
I buy it by the case and split it with friends

 

Amsoil synthetic all three holes

Engine: 20w50
Trans: SVG 70w90
Primary: 10w40

 

Moby,
This may go against what some may say, but the "break-in" of ANY new engine assembled by any of todays manufacturers occurs within the first 5 minutes you run it. The tolerances, metal alloys,and machining techniques used in todays engines make long break-in periods a thing of the past. I put more emphasis on properheat cycling parts which stabilizes the castings and metal temper than actual part break-in which is nothing more than wearing in the part mating surfaces. I wouldn't hesitate one minute to fire a new engine on whatever oil that's available, run it one heat cycle, (about 5 minutes), drain that oil and filter to remove any metal shavings or other foreign material that may be in the engine, and go directly to synthetics. In fact, that's the procedure I used forengines costing more than several new Harley's without a single failure or problem related to oil. Go ahead and change to synthetics at your first change and never look back.

 

When I was in college I worked for a oil packaging company.

There is not much difference in any oil at a given spec level. I have seen the same oil put in major brand bottles! You would be surprised the brands that come out of the same plant.
I have seen additives added for sales purposes that once the motor gets warm burns off and doesn't do anything (additives that cause oil to cling / climb to parts.)

I don't put much stock into oil - i look at the spec level and look for the reputation of the company.

Do you trust the company that is selling you the oil - does it meet the specs. Thats the question most everything else doesn't matter.