Cam Change with Pictures - Update
#1
Cam Change with Pictures - Update
My Bike:
Rineharts Slip-Ons
Vance & Hines Dual Headers
Stock Cams
K&N A/C
TMax w/Autotune
After a successful installation of the Thundermax, I decided that I wanted to upgrade the cams. I got a price at a local independent shop that was a little steep in my opinion. So I began to contemplate doing it myself. I added up the parts cost, compared it to the installed price, and decided to try it. I know that prices can be allover the place, but I thought I could do it for somewhere in the neighborhood of half price or better.
I am okay with general maintenance, cosmetic upgrades, and a few bolt-on performance additions. But, I have never done any internal engine work on a motorcycle.
I thought this would also be a great learning experience and give me the confidence to do even bigger modifications later.
My real inspiration came from watching Philm and Dalton do their well documented 120” builds on HDFoums. I thought if they can do that in their shops, I can do a cam swap. You got to start somewhere.
I stared thinking….Timing, cams, special tools, bearings, warranty, TDC, gaskets, leaks, fuel maps, chains, tensioners, pusrods, lifters….. not to mention; I’m out of kerosene, my shop is cold, and I might miss American Idol.
Oh my god, just take it to the shop and pay The Man.
But no, I started researching and then I sent Philm an email. I got encouragement, suggestions, and some advice from Phil. So I decided to order the parts.
Thank you Philm.
I am not going to even attempt a detailed 2007 cam swap guide. I’m sure I would leave something out.
I will just tell you this; DON”T pay The Man.
This is doable for even the novice mechanic. Get the manual, take you time, and most importantly, ask for help, if you’re unsure. You will get help, I did.
I have a better bike and I know a lot more about it. I have gained confidence and I want to do more now.
Where is that big bore kit?
I thought you might like to see a few pictures:
Muffler and Air Cleaner Off
Out With the Pusrods
No Pushrods
Lifters
Opened Up
Old Cams
New Stuff
New Cams in Plate with Assembly Lube
Cam Chest with New Bearings
Buttoned Up
Still Need Lifter Covers and Pushrods.
That’s all the pictures I took.
It started right up and is stronger than ever.
I don't even have any left over parts.
Please contact me if you have any questions.
If I can help or point you in the right direction, I will.
My New Bike:
Rineharts Slip-Ons
Vance & Hines Dual Headers
Head-Quarters Cams
K&N A/C
TMax w/Autotune
Rineharts Slip-Ons
Vance & Hines Dual Headers
Stock Cams
K&N A/C
TMax w/Autotune
After a successful installation of the Thundermax, I decided that I wanted to upgrade the cams. I got a price at a local independent shop that was a little steep in my opinion. So I began to contemplate doing it myself. I added up the parts cost, compared it to the installed price, and decided to try it. I know that prices can be allover the place, but I thought I could do it for somewhere in the neighborhood of half price or better.
I am okay with general maintenance, cosmetic upgrades, and a few bolt-on performance additions. But, I have never done any internal engine work on a motorcycle.
I thought this would also be a great learning experience and give me the confidence to do even bigger modifications later.
My real inspiration came from watching Philm and Dalton do their well documented 120” builds on HDFoums. I thought if they can do that in their shops, I can do a cam swap. You got to start somewhere.
I stared thinking….Timing, cams, special tools, bearings, warranty, TDC, gaskets, leaks, fuel maps, chains, tensioners, pusrods, lifters….. not to mention; I’m out of kerosene, my shop is cold, and I might miss American Idol.
Oh my god, just take it to the shop and pay The Man.
But no, I started researching and then I sent Philm an email. I got encouragement, suggestions, and some advice from Phil. So I decided to order the parts.
Thank you Philm.
I am not going to even attempt a detailed 2007 cam swap guide. I’m sure I would leave something out.
I will just tell you this; DON”T pay The Man.
This is doable for even the novice mechanic. Get the manual, take you time, and most importantly, ask for help, if you’re unsure. You will get help, I did.
I have a better bike and I know a lot more about it. I have gained confidence and I want to do more now.
Where is that big bore kit?
I thought you might like to see a few pictures:
Muffler and Air Cleaner Off
Out With the Pusrods
No Pushrods
Lifters
Opened Up
Old Cams
New Stuff
New Cams in Plate with Assembly Lube
Cam Chest with New Bearings
Buttoned Up
Still Need Lifter Covers and Pushrods.
That’s all the pictures I took.
It started right up and is stronger than ever.
I don't even have any left over parts.
Please contact me if you have any questions.
If I can help or point you in the right direction, I will.
My New Bike:
Rineharts Slip-Ons
Vance & Hines Dual Headers
Head-Quarters Cams
K&N A/C
TMax w/Autotune
#2
RE: Cam Change with Pictures
Nice WORK! I compliment you for having the faith in yourself to tackle it.... Which cams you put in? Might even be more in it with a dyno pull and tune....... I was very happy with my SE211s. "Gulp" I had the dealer do it warranty reasons.........
How was adjusting the pushrods?..... I have not done it yet......
How was adjusting the pushrods?..... I have not done it yet......
#3
RE: Cam Change with Pictures
Great job! I have mine apart right now waiting for parts. I just thought I would add 1 tip....
When it comes to pulling the inner cam bearings, go to autozone and ask to loan the "blind hole puller set" with a $140 deposit. The tool worked like a charm and I'll get all of my money back.
When it comes to pulling the inner cam bearings, go to autozone and ask to loan the "blind hole puller set" with a $140 deposit. The tool worked like a charm and I'll get all of my money back.
#5
RE: Cam Change with Pictures
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.
#7
RE: Cam Change with Pictures
ORIGINAL: dgriffith
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.
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#8
RE: Cam Change with Pictures
Which leads me to a question....There is still plastic shoes in the 07/08s..... So are these not expected to wear out as fast because they are hydraulic rather then spring loaded??? To soon to tell....??? I am questioning if the problem has been solved because I still see plastic shoes.
ORIGINAL: duke76
His bike is an 07 and has the hydraulic tensioners so no reason to go gear drive, the newer cranks usually have to much runout anyway
ORIGINAL: dgriffith
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.
#9
RE: Cam Change with Pictures
ORIGINAL: Donnylee
Which leads me to a question....There is still plastic shoes in the 07/08s..... So are these not expected to wear out as fast because they are hydraulic rather then spring loaded??? To soon to tell....??? I am questioning if the problem has been solved because I still see plastic shoes.
Which leads me to a question....There is still plastic shoes in the 07/08s..... So are these not expected to wear out as fast because they are hydraulic rather then spring loaded??? To soon to tell....??? I am questioning if the problem has been solved because I still see plastic shoes.
ORIGINAL: duke76
His bike is an 07 and has the hydraulic tensioners so no reason to go gear drive, the newer cranks usually have to much runout anyway
ORIGINAL: dgriffith
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.
rahall, Is there a reason you kept the chain drive verses going to gear drive? Just asking. I'm about ready to do it myself. After reading about crank runout, my local mechanic said to tear it down, check crank run out, then decide which way to go. Come to think of it that is probably the best way to make the decision.