what did you use those bolt cutters on ?

 

Bolt cutters on push rods...

 

rahall,
congrats on doing the work yourself, another convert!

For those asking about the chain tensioners, yes, still plastic or whatever they are made out of, the difference is in the hydraulic setup vs. spring. I pulled mine down at 12k miles and built the 120, there was hardly a mark on them, put them right back in. You can bet that with what it cost to build the 120, I would have taken no chances if it was questionable.

Only time will tell, but I think they got it right this time.

 

Nice work.

CN

 

From what I was told HQ does not make geared cams for 07's so you have to stay with the tensioners. I have S&S 510 geared cams installed in my 07 FLHTC. I have a 103 HQ coming and I will have to go back to the chain with the new tensioners. Whata ya gonna do?

 

I used Head Quarters, HQ-TC-500-HC, cams.

http://www.head-quarters-usa.com/camshaftstwin.html

I think I might have been most worried about properly adjusting the pushrods.

Again, thanks Philm.

The pushrods came with adequate instructions, but after speaking to Phil on the phone, it became more clear to me exactly what I was trying to accomplish.

I'll take a shot at explaining it.
My terminology might not be correct, but I think you'll get the point.
And, I will not be offended if someone corrects me or adds to this explanation.

When the lifters are completely pumped up and unloaded, they are at 0.200".
For example, without pushrods installed, the lifters would expandout to the 0.200".
This is obviously an internal hydraulic measurement, not the actual length of the lifter.
The idea is to adjust the pushrods out until the lifters are compressedto 0.100"
Therefore, adjusted to the midpoint of their travel.

Here’s how I did that:

Put the bike in 5th or 6th gear. This makes the rear wheel easier to spin.

Put the bike on a lift.

Take out both spark plugs.

Open all four pushrod covers and push them as far up as possible. I used two paper clips connected with a rubber band. Bend the paper clips, hook one under the pushrod cover, and hook the other end on a fin or something. This is a neat trick to keep them out of way while you’re adjusting.

Verify that you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder by pacing your finger over the front spark plug hole and have someone rotate the rear wheel until you get a rush of air out of the spark plug hole. This step might not be necessary, but this way I knew I was on the compression stroke with both valves closed.

Now move to the right side of the bike and touch both front pushrods.

While touching the pushrods or the tops of the lifters if you are installing new rods, have someone rotate the rear wheel until you feel the rods both move down and stay down while you are still rotating the rear wheel. Trail and error will quickly find that area where both front cylinder rods and lifters stay down. You should be very close to one end of that range based on being on the compression stroke. Very roughly, they will stay down about 25% of the tire rotation.

I took a piece of chalk and marked the rear wheel even with the fender to represent the endpoints of this low lifter/pushrod zone.

I then rotated the rear wheel to the middle of the two chalk marks. This should place you in the middle of the un-loped part of the front cam. For adjustment purposes, you do not want the cam lopes to induce lifter compression. That’s why you position to the un-lobed part of the cam.

[font="times n

 

No wear on the tensioners. I have 6500 miles on the bike.

The bolt cutters were used to cut out the factory non-adjustable pushrods.
You can see the cut rods in the picture.

This let me avoid all top end work for the cost of adjustable pushrods.

I got those 18" bolt cutters for $5.99 from Harbor Freight.

Don't buy them.

They are not long enough to get proper leverage.

I put those extensions in the ends or they wouldn't have worked at all.

 

Heck yeah rahall!!!good job and great write up. I'm right behind ya, gear drive cams should be here this week.

 

Are there any special tools used to remove and replace the cams and bearings on the 07? If so what are they and where can you get them?

 

this is a great thread - thanks for the education!!