2005 Ultra - what's it take to adjust the handle bars? Need to twist mine up about 1/2" - they seem to be pointing down just a tad to much.

I thought I could get to them by taking the plastic cover off the console switchs - can't seem to get that off unless the ignition switch is pulled out - and no idea how to do that.


Thanks,

 

Get the manual - Ign switch does have to come out...... Not as hard as you think.. And while your there get ride on the junk top clamp.. Caution when removing the Ign Switch as if it turns when out it will take awhile to align it back up again- HD sell the alignment tool but if ya take your time you can get it to work right again using a small screwdriver

 

Thanks Pappy - point me towards a better top clamp? Does MoCo make a better one now or some after market?

 

[sm=icon_rtfm.gif] The maintenance manual is probably the most important tool to have in your toolbox.IMO

 

Here you go.

http://www.kenandjudy.us/Harley%20Pi...Bars/index.htm

 

That's a great link

 

2005UNC:

I recently decided to swap out the handlebar on my ’07 Ultra while servicing the forks. Something to do while the weather’s bad.

I had removed the lower fairing, the outer fairing, and radio. I realize your wanting to simply adjust the bars a bit, but IMO being able to locktite/tighten the clamp and bolts after adjustment is very important! I had originally noticed, since I had the radio out, the rear bolts would be easily accessible with a slight push on the lower radio opening while using a long ball allen driver. Problem was that after calling Snap-On, they informed me the maximum working torque of the long ball ¼” driver was just a tad over 15 ft./lbs (183 in/lbs). The recommended torque for the handlebar bolts is 16-20 ft./lbs.

After scratching my head for a while and studying the Service Manual, I decided to remove the spot lamp/bar assembly, lower chrome front cover, and four panhead screws from the side of the forks. Doing this allowed me to lift and tilt forward the entire inner fairing assembly, maybe a ½” if that much; and tightening/torqueing the clamp bolts became a very simple task using a ¼” hex bit. Might have taken an extra 30 minutes, but I was in no hurry and the peace of mind of having the handlebar properly tightened was well worth the added time.

1. You need a factory service manual.
2. Get rid of the two piece clamp and replace with H-D's new#55917-08 one piece. Works perfect!
3. I also replaced the wimpy handlebar riser bushings with H-D's #56298-03 Polyurethane Bushings. These came highly recommened by a very respected Tech!

Hope this helps!

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Thanks guys - great info.

 

Have the Service Manual - problem is it doesn't tell you things like you guys mentioned with the top clamp, etc. Took like 15 minutes to adjust the bars upward - makes a world of difference - should of done this couple years ago. You would think the dealership would have mentioned that and adjusted the bars to fit me before I left when I bought the bike.

 

My new bars are on the way. What is the point of replacing the top clamp and the riser bushings? Have there been failures?