brass bushing from NAPA was #"3220x6x2" which was 3/8" MNPT - 1/8" FNPT.

Make sure you put this sheath on the wires before you run them on the bike, the rubber tube in the kit:

 

Ok....so lets see if I got it right.

I went to Home Depot this morning and bought 2 adapters.....one of them will fit the oil pan...both fit the sending unit. Now.....
1. Should I or shouldn't I use some sort of thread sealer on the adapters threads?
2. I guess using a o-ring on the threads that go into the oil pan is easy enough, but who has done it, and is is necessary?
3. I need to cut the three wires (already printed a pic of the installed wires on the new gauge) that went on the old gauge, crimp a terminal on each, and install to the new gauge in correct position.
Does the little rubber bulb cover come in the gauge kit, or do I need to look for one from the many other Auto-Meter brand gauge installs I have done(I know I have green, blue, and red....but I dont remember yellow/gold???)
4. I dont think removing the tank on a 08' is a problem at all, but is it necessary for a quality factory looking install?
5. I am also planning on installing the JBL replacement speakers at the same time.....should I do the speaker job first or the gauge install first?
6. Has anyone used any dielectric grease on the connector for the sending unit under the bike....it looks like a vulnerable spot to get water on/in it....even with the piece of hose over the connection???
7. As far as routing the leads up from the sending unit to the inside the fairing.....most people say to go up the right side of the frame, along the back bone, and then up under the fairing along with the rest of the wires that go in there....is this the best routing?

I hate to bother you guys with the small details, but I hate having to do things over and over to get them right, and the wealth of knowledge here is astounding.....so.

Thanks in advance, and I will take pics along the way, and see if I cant post up a install thread that addresses all the most popular issues with the install.

Thanks you guys!

 

Ok....I just opened up my kit and that alone cleared up a few things., and also brought up a few new questions.

First....I see that the light bulb cover is already on the bulb, and I dont have to use one of my own covers.

I am assuming that since I will be using the same method install as most here, that I do not need to use the entire harness that is provided in the kit. Assuming that I am correct I will only need the lead that comes from the sender with the signal and ground wires.....and I can use the existing 12VDC that went to the ambient temp gauge for power.....am I correct? If I use the method as stated here, do I still need to use the fuse and install it into the fuse block....or not? (I assume not)

I am also beginning to think I am going to switch positions of the volt gauge with the ambiant temp gauge, and put the new oil temp gauge on the right side of the fairing in the hole where the volt gauge once was.....????

 

Feel free to use teflon tape to help seal, the HD sensor has a ground wire for its grounding.

You are correct about the harness; I cut out what I didn't need. I basically have the ground/signal wires routed along the frame up following the clutch cable into the fairing. I added spade and ring connectors to the power/ground/signal ends in the fairing and connected to existing conectors there. I also relocated the voltmeter and now have oil temp/pressure guages on the right side.

 

+1 for what 07SG said.

 

Buy your gauge from Wally's...comes with all nec fittings...

 

You can on the HD gauge because the sender is grounded with a separate wire, not at the sender as with the McEwan and most other senders. Teflon tape is probably not necessary, though, although I used it just as a precaution.

 

Your option. It won't affect ground (HD guage only), but probably isn't necessary.

What o-ring? Why would you need it? It's a pipe thread, so leaking shouldn't be a problem.

No need to cut anything, but just unplug the old gauge connector. Use the old harness connector for 12V and (optionally) GND. The bulb is in the gauge and it emits the same color as your stock gauges.
It's

Don't need to remove the tank. Just remove the rear bolt and raise it 1" or so. Use a coathanger wire to guide the sender wire only under the tank. No need for other wires to be channeled to the front. Ground the sender to the grounding point forward of the battery in cubby hole under the seat.

If the right speaker out of the way aids in accessing the gauge, do that first.

Yes, it would be advisable. I did it. Also, use the plastic cover provided in the kit to protect the sender connection. See my photo plagiarized elsewhere in this thread.

If I'm following you correctly, run the single sender wire under the seat, under the tank along the right side top, then inside the fairing.

To wire it, make a small harness with two wires, a ring connector on one end and a male blade connector on the other end of each wire. Use the old air-gauge connector for powering the lamp and gauge (12V and GND). Insert the blade end of one wire into the 12V lead in the existing harness (determined with a voltmeter or wiring diagram) and the other end (ring connector) to POS on the gauge. On the second wire, insert the blade and ring to GND, or just ground the gauge to the frame, whichever is easiest. The sender wire goes to the SIG connector on the gauge.

 

No thread tape or loctite on my McEwen sending unit. The bushing is soft brass and is tapered. The more turns of the threads, the tighter the fit. No leaks.

 

No loctite, pipe dope, teflon used, as it is a brass bushing with pipe thread, so it will get tighter as you install it and will "deform" to match the threads. No leak.

I ran the sensor wires to the right frame rail, following clutch cable and up right downtube into the fairing. No need to remove the tank for a professional looking install. No need to run the power wire to the battery/fuse block. Use the orange wire that was on the temp gauge to pick up power.