I have a 99 FLFTCI which was hot rodded. 570 cams head work larger throttle body and all the usually stuff. It ran ok but was very rich. I had a pcIII on it and had it dynoed twice to get it right.

Last spring after fighting poor mileage and some eratic preformance I took the plung and replace the MM with a Zippers TMax with autotune. The change over was easy and went along with out any hitches. I purchased it from a indy and the price was a good one.

The bike still runs as strong as it did with the original setup and gets better mileage and I don't have to pay another 2-300 to get it tuned anymore regardless of what I change. I put many many miles on it last year and I ever pulled my trailer. Ran great with out missing a beat and starts and idles perfectly. It even sounds better then it used to.

 

I had the same problem with my 01. I had a pc3 and tried to tune it out with that but it never really worked. Brought it in for dyno tune and the cold adjustment to be adjusted. It ran good after that no poping or fouling plugs. I did have the bike shut down run funny once and while so i decided to change out fuel pump. It turns out that the plastic lines where leaking and you could see the gas pissing out these littlle holes when i took pump out. I broke the pump (plastic piece were hose connects so i got a aftermarket one off ebay it has metal fitting and no works and runs great. It ran without any hickups on a 6 day 3000+ Thru mountians in the rain and stop and go traffic in sturgis last year. Hope this helps

 

I've got a 00 with MM/EFI and no trouble so far. In fact, runs great, but could just be my bike. I'm assuming you don't have bad gas or dirty fuel injectors? May not necessarily be the EFI.

 

Tis funny you would mention the fuel pump. I kept hearing it cycle. Can't remember that before, but could be the fact that I was "listening" for something to be wrong.

It's supposed to be up to 47* here today, so gonna try and take it in at lunch if the rain holds off. Tis their problem for now, mine when the warranty expires.

Thanks for the help guys, will let ya know what they find.

 

I set the TPS by measuring the voltage; then set the cold idle using the voltage method; then set the warm idle on a warm engine using the rpm's.
I can provide details if you're interested.Checking the idle settings is a good idea, but performance as lousy as you're describing is something more than just improper idle settings.

 

HD released a SERT for M&M bikes a couple of years ago. Could help if your DFO is not cutting it for you.

 

Well, I took it to the dealer, and they cannot find anything wrong. They put it on the dyno, and it ran fine. No error codes, etc.

Thinking of calling them and having them set it outside and let it get cold. Then start it, warm it up, then shut it off. Wait for it to cool off, then start it again. Seems that is when it always happens to me.

Will see what they say

 

Like I said in my earlier post, even though the techs say they know about the system, trust me, they don't! They are just using the manual to try to trouble shoot it just like you can. Might as well learn all about the MM system if you are keeping it, no one else is gonna know enough to help you and you'll have em chasing phantoms around forever. I stand by my earlier suggestion, switch to carb! About $3-400 and 4-6 hours work, piece of cake you can do yourself.

 

Mine did this for the first time at 13,000 miles. I turned the kill switch off and the ing. let it set for a min.+- cranked it and it ran fine since. Reset everthing. Last sept. I was on a trip and my bike would not drop below 1,500-2,000 rpms. Took it to a dealer-had 6,000 miles at the time- ran fine for them. the mech. said it was the idel sensor. I just reset the ing... I agree HD's FI has a lot to be desired.
I still like my Ultra more than my Honda though.
jim

 

Got an 01 EGC with the MM on it.
Ran great for 7k miles before I wrecked it. No problems.
Had a 98 RG same system 50k before traded in . No fuel running problems with it
either.

Normally when it's time to trouble shoot electronics, it is the SIMPLE things, So start there first.
First is the battery and charging system.
with the age of the bike it could be having troubles there.
thoroughly clean both ends of the battery cable and use dielectric grease.
While seat is off, down in front of it is a circuit breaker and on either side is two grounding studs.
Clean and grease these also.
Check the condition of the stator, if starting to go bad, will show up on volt gauge as low voltage.
DISCONNECT BATTERY GROUND AND THEN:
Now if still exists, pull right side cover, there you will find map baro sensor, clean the plug on it and inspect the small hole inside of unit make sure it is not clogged. If so clean cently with a q-tip or such , BUT NO LIQUID. Remove the ECM and remove the connector and clean.
find the head temp sensor remove it and clean where it mounts and the connector too.

Now ride again if problem still exists. I would buy a new crank position sensor.
Considering they have no moving parts they seem to fail regularly.
Usually they become intermittent. cost is about $80.

If the dealer will check fuel pressure at idle and open throttle for free or a price you're willing to pay have it checked. A weak pump, partially clogged filter or a weak pressure regulator.

After doing the above which will be free or minimal in cost, you most likley will discover the cause.
Most dealer techs don't know how to diagnose a problem, and those that do, don't want to take the time. Because too much time costs them and the dealer money.
so you're left with studying everything you can on your bike or going to a dealer if you want it fixed right.