Tadaffner, Don't take this wrong but, I am in the same place as you on the cam change process.I went out yesterday and started pulling things apart to do a runout check.Pulled off the outter gears/chain and suddenly thought! what will hapen if I roll the engine over with cam drive off, "As in piston hitting open valve" Not a good prospect. So I put the gears/chain back on and will be cutting the push rods before doing runout check. As I said no intent to offend but it is so easy to get tunnel vision "for me anyway" and a good day in the shop goes way bad.

 

OLDMILL, Thanks for the advise, and would never takeadvise like that the wrong way, your right, pistons hitting open valves would be a bad day and would be an easy mistake to make.

 

Thats cool, It was a dumb a@# move on my part and I payed. It was a pita to get lined back up with lifter pressure rolling the cams.Any way good news for me,I checked runout and found it to be.0018-.0020 this is a relief because new parts came ups today.I was thinking I might try to sell them to you if my runout was crap lol.this has been a good thread, hope it goes on for a while.
Best of luck on your build...

 

Woo Who, Checked the crank run out and just under 1 ½ thousands.

New Andrews 26G’s and Gear Kit are on order as well as the PCIII.

D&D Fat Cats 2-1 showed up today as well as the new SEadjustable pushrods and short tube covers.

Can’t wait to get it back together and see how she runs.

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Good to hear the crank is within spec. Let us know how it turns out !

 

I got my bike back today. The tensioners had let go so my extended warranty covered the cost of new oil pump, lifters, and labor while I had the Andrews36 G cams put in. The bike ran great and seems to have a little more umph at the lower rpm's an makes a much better sound. Sure glad to get rid of the worrying about the tenioners. Good luck with your build.

 

So I am assuming there is a specified procedure for rotating the crank 360* with the cam chain and sprokets off......is it listed on the Andrews web site or in the service manual, or is it just pulling the push rods out?

Oh and I hope anyone who is either checking crank run out or who is installing new cams will post their results for others to see.

thanks!

 

Did my 26G's last year - 05 Ultra - had similar runout (0.0015). Now, did have some issues with the outer gearlash (at like two spots in the rotation, had very little to almost no lash) - talked to Andrews, said that I would be fine since the other 98% of the rotation, the lash was okay. Not sure what this was - maybe a couple teeth not cut exactly the same. In any case, knock on wood, my 26G's have been great - in fact, I hear zero whine. Like others said, glad I don't have to worry about the old tensioners.

 

But how do you measure the tolerance that Andrews recommends on the inner and outer cam gear back lash? They say to use your fingers and turn the cams back and forth, but by the procedure being my first time, how do I know what is too much????

 

Dalton,
I checked the runout by placing the dial indicator on the crank near the cam plate, zeroed it out and place the bike in forth gear. Bumped the wheel slowly forward and rotated the crank 90 degree at a time and checked it as it spun. If you go to the Andrews web site they show it.

http://www.andrews-products.com/PDF_...ms99_Gear1.pdf


The only issue I had was the dial indicator they used was the finger type and mine is the shaft type. So I had to spin the dial towards the frame of the bike to get it close enough to the crank. But with a little hand held mirror, you can watch the dial while you bump the rear wheel with your other hand. Anything .0003 or less is good enough to convert to gear drives.

You can see the front cam tensioner in the picture, and it did not look real bad, however, once I pulled the cam plate off the rear one was very ugly.

I figure I was about a 1,000 more miles away from a bad day.


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