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[blockquote]
Thank you very much, to all of you who responded. I have just one more question, to any of you. I now know to check the plugs, set the air bleed screws, etc. Is there anything else I should do, before we hook up the SERT, for hopefully the last time?

Thanks again, guys, and Merry Christmas to all. Gator[/blockquote]

 

DUDE! Wake up and smell the coffee! Your bike is a 2000, I don't wanna burst your bubble but EFI or Carb or converted has nothing to do with it's current or future value. If it was only 2-3 years old, it might be different but at 8 years old, not a dollar difference in value......
The days of used HD's being worth nearly what they cost new are over, the market is flooded with used bikes and the value of early twin cams is not very good, sorry...

 

Check the air filter. That system is speed density which means at a certain throttle position it delivers this much fuel. The system does not have a map sensor so it hasno idea how much air is entering. If the air filter gets dirty and airflow is reduced, it still get's this much fuel. I recommend cleaning the air filter on Mag systems every time you change oil & filter , if not more.

Check and then recheck that you do not have an intake leak.

 

 

I too have a 2001 Ultra, andI have boughtand tried ALL the tuners out there- PCII, Techlusion TFI/DFO, PCIIIr, second ECM (under warranty), Terry Type O2 feedback gizmo, Dakota Kid 48mm TB with SERT for M&M (which you have), and now Zippers kit with Thunder Max ECU/50mm Single Throat TB/Closed Loop System.

One of the reasons I tried so many things, is because my bike would NOT hold a tune for more than a few months. I'd get it dialed in on a dyno (Ka-Ching$$$$), and a few months later it would act up again. After trying all of the above, and paying for tune after tune, it is my conclusion that the weakest link in the system is the Throttle Body. It is too finicky with a separate hot and cold idle setting, sensative TPS settings, and two front air bleed screws. I got pushed over the edge about a year and a half ago when I got one of the best dyno tunes ever with the SERT. The bike ran great and got great mpgs. Then I went from sea level where I live, to Yellowstone. Up at altitude the bike idled like crap. As soon as I came down to sea level, the bike ran great. In frustrated disgust I went with the Zippers Kit with closed loop to avoid future dyno tunes (Another story here to be told later). In retrospect, I believe that had I changed out to a simpler single throat TB without front airbleed screws, I probably could have kept my stock ECM and SERT set up. I think that over the years my bike had been "tuned" by too many hands, and that the TB was never set up properly. I could be wrong, but that's my guess.

I'm thinking you will be okay in this. Do not judge all M&M bikes by my poor history. Find a good tuner and you will be happy.

 

Thanks Paniola. I will try to check for leaks first, then make the adjustments everybody mentioned, and then tune. I'd like to keep from changing TB, etc., as a last resort. I've poured enough $ into it already. Once again, if anybody has any other ideas or suggestions, please send 'em. Much appreciated. This is a brotherhood like none I've seen since the Corps. Semper Fi. Gator


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I know you don't want to hear this, but a PCIII may be your better choice. Your MM system is fully capable of being tuned with SERT. But... as you know, you are tied to the HD dealer and it's difficult finding one with MM experience.

 

I can't see buying a PCIII, spending money on top of the money I spent on the Race Tuner. I'm going to try theleak testing, first, and then tuning again with the SERT.


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I found the problem, I think. We found an air leak where the throttle body sits on the head. Now, I need to know how to adjust the two air bleed screws.

How many turns each? Is a turn a full revolution of a screwdriver, or a flat side turn?

Thanks in advance,

Gatorwalt