Getting new cases it would be a shame not to stroke it. Take the insurance money, top it off and order a new 103 with geared cams.

 

I'll throw my two cents in - biggest bang for the littlest buck, yes is just going to 95" with the SE cam plate that eliminates the need for the fueling pump and associated parts. BUT, if you are already getting new cases, and the lower end is apart, thenthe 103, is easily attainable, for about $1k more, the price of the SE crank as you will already be buying the cams, cam plate, pistons, heads and having the cyls bored.

It is your money, but as long as you are in there......

 

Thanks for all the advice, I'll touch on a few things and ask a few more

I was going with Feuling because a local Indy recommended while in there and couldn't comment on the SE cam plate/oil pump - that is why I asked Phil about it. Based on what I've seen at Bryan TTM build parties, I'll trust that he says the SE parts are good so I am going with that.

I stewed on it last night and decided to save money and do the HQ 95" BB resulting in 103". I will discuss him boring my cylinders and whether that will save $$$.

As far as crank - since it will be apart a new stoker crank just seems right - it died as an 88 but rise from the ashes as an 103". So if I understand everyone right, the more expensive SE crank is made by Jim's and is a good product. And I think Phil said I would not need to do the Timken bearing job brought up by Gutman right?

Pipes - I like the True Dual look and I like my current slip ons. I am not a fan of 2-to-1s. So what is a good header pipe? I think Bryan TTM is running VH duals on his hotrod 98".

Again, I am not looking for 120hp, its more like just having a 100+ cu in motor and all the power I would need forMY riding without the motor working to hard. 100/100 would be great - I mean I have been smiling the entire 25K miles on this Stage 1 Sg, and the 30K on my Stage 1 Fatboy, and the 40K onthe cam'd 93 FXSTC EVO (God i miss that bike) - hell i was smiling on my first street bike, a POS Yamahammer.

As pointed out - it is my money and my bike and my opinions - what I was solicting and thank all of you, is getting opinions from end users of this parts - the service manager says sure you can stroke it for $700 ($575 online) but its y'all that said that the higher $$ crank is worth it, its y'all that said the higher $$ cam plate/oil pump isnt...Thanks.

As far as tappets - I would be sick to my stomach if I basically replaced every part except the lifters and 1 stopped pumping up. $95 for a Feuling set is well worth that piece of mind. I mean that is really what is happening here, my complete old motor (minus covers, rockers, and possible jugs if bored) will be in a box so my not another $95 for performance lifters. Inform me if I am wrong but the Feuling must be good if they recommend a $100 set over $200-250 sets.

 

>>And I think Phil said I would not need to do the Timken bearing job brought up by Gutman right?<<

In my opinion, that is absolutely correct. The bearing failures are due to excessive crank runout. THere is no bearing that will withstand the runout that has been reported on some of the inexpensive cranks. <for the record: The Jims version of that crank, the good one, can be had for about $750 from Zanotti or CHicago>.

>>Pipes - I like the True Dual look and I like my current slip ons. I am not a fan of 2-to-1s. So what is a good header pipe? I think Bryan TTM is running VH duals on his hotrod 98". <<

Try it with what you've got. If you don;t like it or determine it to be too restrictive, then get yourself a preformance exhaust. Actually, the stock headpipes perform well with good slipons.

>>I was going with Feuling because a local Indy recommended while in there and couldn't comment on the SE cam plate/oil pump - that is why I asked Phil about it. Based on what I've seen at Bryan TTM build parties, I'll trust that he says the SE parts are good so I am going with that. <<

I am going to use the S/E plate & 07 styule pump on my new HQ 120...

>>As far as tappets - I would be sick to my stomach if I basically replaced every part except the lifters and 1 stopped pumping up. $95 for a Feuling set is well worth that piece of mind.<<

The Fueling ones are fine, the ones AMS sells are good, as are the ones HQ sells. Additioanlly, the HD "B" lifters are also servicable.

 

I would agree with Phil 100 percent. Nice suggestions. This would make for a reliable running bike with what I would guess around 108-112 foot pounds about 34-3600 rpm. Fuel economy should be good with the 575 cams. Should be a nice running engine.

I tend to be agressive and overbuild at times. Lower end service is not something that is cheap, easy or quick to complete. With the good SE crank the timken is not as big a concern. With higher compression or agressive riding I would recommend.

 

Phil mentioned $750 for the crank (23600-00)but I looked and $840 is the best I have seen from M and M cycles and Chicago (Zanotti's is $1023). But I noticed somewhere that bearing kit 24004-03A is also required. Anyone know if that is all that is required to install flywheel as a 103" motor (i am aware that boring cases can yield bigger than 107")? Is there any machining required (honing, material removal for relief)? Hoping not to have any surpirses that the dealer forgot to mention.

Again - thanks to all for the helpful info - i feel pretty good about it now. The only real things I need to decide is if the 575 is the cam to use and whether to bore my jugs or not (think this will depend on HQ's turn-around when the motor is actually pulled all the way down)...

...oh and whether to black out the motor...been thinking of blacking the bike - chrome looks so bad dirty and I ride the bike and dont clean it like i should

 

Black looks even worse dirty.

 

Try Chicago then... When I was preparing for my build, I was first considering a 113, which uses the same crank we are discussing here. I found it for right @ 750, but I do not have all my note in front of me.

If turn around time is a concern, you can choose to do an exchange and they will ship you heads & jugs that are ready (you pay a deposit or core fee, just like on a starter @ the parts house) and they refund the deposit when they recieve your pull offs. It's cheaper and and better to bore jugs than buy "bigbore" jugs from HD.

THere are no case mods or boring required for a 88 ~ 95 ~ 103 conversion.

 

I tell you, I'm impressed with all the great gas mileage numbers. It must be my riding style! Since going to a 95" kit in my 1999 Roadking in early 1999, I haven't seen better than 30-35 miles to a galloon. The build now is up to 116" and the mileage is consistant, around 30 miles to the galloon.