"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
#941
[quote=FLHTCU2007Ken;9042477]That's a great idea with awesome innovation but the edges are still susceptible to rust. I drag the left one most every day??? Steel rusts. How do we stop it?
Here's my solution for draggin' the boards. Was a motor cop for a long time and these were on all the bikes. The mechanics changed them almost as often as the oil. Get some angle iron and attach a piece to the underside of each board. I used an existing hole and pop rivets. A plus is in the dark you get a nice light show.
Here's my solution for draggin' the boards. Was a motor cop for a long time and these were on all the bikes. The mechanics changed them almost as often as the oil. Get some angle iron and attach a piece to the underside of each board. I used an existing hole and pop rivets. A plus is in the dark you get a nice light show.
#942
#943
#946
#947
DIY K&N Filter
DIY K&N FILTER
Don't know if anyone has done this, I got the idea from my Dad....
What I did was:
Step 1: I gathered my tools and materials.
Once the filter was off the bike I used a Grinder with a Zip Cut Blade and a Propane torch. I decided to go with automotive seam and joint sealer to install the K&N element. I used a K&N filter from my last bike a Honda VTX1300. My father used one from a car, he re-folded the pleats to fit the Harley housing
Step 2: Took my OEM filter off the bike.
Step 3: Used a propane torch to remove the stock filter element (this will make it replaceable if you ruin the K&N). I applied gentle pressure on the housing. I heated the metal housing with light passes of the torch until the glue released.
Step 4: Mocked up the filter housing with the spacers in place and measured the inside diameter of where the filter sits.
Step 5: Cut the filter material from the K&N filter to the measurement from step 4.
Step 6: The filter is like a spring and tries to jump out of the housing. I used a coat hanger to hold the K&N in the desired shape for stability. It is a one shot deal getting the new filter in the housing.
Step 7: I used seam sealer to hold the spacers in place. Then I filled the recessed portion of both halves of the housing.
Step 8: Placed one half of housing on table, placed preformed filter from step 6 in housing, placed other half on top (watch the spacers). I pressed the housing together and placed a weight on the top.
Step 9: Allow 24 hrs to cure
Don't know if anyone has done this, I got the idea from my Dad....
What I did was:
Step 1: I gathered my tools and materials.
Once the filter was off the bike I used a Grinder with a Zip Cut Blade and a Propane torch. I decided to go with automotive seam and joint sealer to install the K&N element. I used a K&N filter from my last bike a Honda VTX1300. My father used one from a car, he re-folded the pleats to fit the Harley housing
Step 2: Took my OEM filter off the bike.
Step 3: Used a propane torch to remove the stock filter element (this will make it replaceable if you ruin the K&N). I applied gentle pressure on the housing. I heated the metal housing with light passes of the torch until the glue released.
Step 4: Mocked up the filter housing with the spacers in place and measured the inside diameter of where the filter sits.
Step 5: Cut the filter material from the K&N filter to the measurement from step 4.
Step 6: The filter is like a spring and tries to jump out of the housing. I used a coat hanger to hold the K&N in the desired shape for stability. It is a one shot deal getting the new filter in the housing.
Step 7: I used seam sealer to hold the spacers in place. Then I filled the recessed portion of both halves of the housing.
Step 8: Placed one half of housing on table, placed preformed filter from step 6 in housing, placed other half on top (watch the spacers). I pressed the housing together and placed a weight on the top.
Step 9: Allow 24 hrs to cure
#948
For the touring dipsticks
Picked up an '07 SG a while back and being an old guy, I was having trouble unscrewing the dipstick,my grip isn't what it used to be. I saw a tool advertised for $20 to do the job but I like making things. Here's my solution. Start with a 2" pvc coupler. Insert a socket, I used a 36mm, into one end so it doesn't deform. Insert into a vise. Heat with a heat gun. It will take no more than a 10 count to soften the plastic. Insert the dipstick and apply a putty knife to form to the dipstick. Let it cool. Continue until all sides have been formed. Whole lot easier to remove the dipstick now. Pics attached in order.
#949
Picked up an '07 SG a while back and being an old guy, I was having trouble unscrewing the dipstick,my grip isn't what it used to be. I saw a tool advertised for $20 to do the job but I like making things. Here's my solution. Start with a 2" pvc coupler. Insert a socket, I used a 36mm, into one end so it doesn't deform. Insert into a vise. Heat with a heat gun. It will take no more than a 10 count to soften the plastic. Insert the dipstick and apply a putty knife to form to the dipstick. Let it cool. Continue until all sides have been formed. Whole lot easier to remove the dipstick now. Pics attached in order.
Last edited by dawg; 02-26-2012 at 12:45 PM.
#950
Cheap LED Tail/Stop Conversion
I started with a 4 inch LED Tail/Stop light from the A/P store, about 12 bucks.
I cut the red plastic from the back and shaped it.........
........... to fit in my stock tail lamp lense. And used clear silicone to secure it.
Here it is hooked up to my sleeping (winter you know) deep cycle battery.
Taillight only.
Brake light.
Working on turn signals now. Should have them done next weekend for about 10 bucks.
I cut the red plastic from the back and shaped it.........
........... to fit in my stock tail lamp lense. And used clear silicone to secure it.
Here it is hooked up to my sleeping (winter you know) deep cycle battery.
Taillight only.
Brake light.
Working on turn signals now. Should have them done next weekend for about 10 bucks.