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"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

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  #911  
Old 10-11-2011, 09:46 PM
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Default Tour Pack Detail...

I started with a dirty interior with the inside lid in a silver color with a half torn weight decal, old Velcro strips and some gooey stuff...Looked like crap when open...So with a can of black epoxy (had it to paint a scratch on our black fridge) a Scotch Bright pad, razor blade and a solvent to clean everything up...Now I feel better when its open...Really cleaned it up and I'm planning on adding some LED's and other things...Didn't cost any more since I used what I found in the shop...
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  #912  
Old 10-11-2011, 09:57 PM
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To have fun with pictures of your Bikes (and other things) go to picnik.com and mess around...Have your work printed and framed, on t shirts or whatever...
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  #913  
Old 10-12-2011, 10:47 PM
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My opener is 12 volts, but if you have one with a 9 volt battery, you can add diodes in series with the power lead. Each diode will drop the voltage about 3/10 of a volt. My Sears opener only stays on momentarily, so if I leave the high beams on, it will not stay transmitting all the while. Good luck.
 
  #914  
Old 10-24-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Snakeboots
My opener is 12 volts, but if you have one with a 9 volt battery, you can add diodes in series with the power lead. Each diode will drop the voltage about 3/10 of a volt. My Sears opener only stays on momentarily, so if I leave the high beams on, it will not stay transmitting all the while. Good luck.

rather than a diode, a resistor is the correct device to drop voltage.
a diode has a another purpose, if it drops the voltage at all that is incidental.
Diodes act as "one way" gates--- the current can only flow one way through them, they are used to prevent current from backing up in a circuit or to convert AC voltage to DC volts via a diode/rectifier

if you use an iphone/pad/touch, the electrical toolkit app can give you the correct resistor values for just about any task

B.) with most garage door systems you only want to send a momentary signal- for the door to move- sending a continous radio signal will only make confuse

best system for this task is a simple relay wired to the high beam switch- lots of the correct circuit designs out there

mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; 10-24-2011 at 01:30 PM.
  #915  
Old 10-25-2011, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
rather than a diode, a resistor is the correct device to drop voltage.
a diode has a another purpose, if it drops the voltage at all that is incidental.
Diodes act as "one way" gates--- the current can only flow one way through them, they are used to prevent current from backing up in a circuit or to convert AC voltage to DC volts via a diode/rectifier

if you use an iphone/pad/touch, the electrical toolkit app can give you the correct resistor values for just about any task

B.) with most garage door systems you only want to send a momentary signal- for the door to move- sending a continous radio signal will only make confuse

best system for this task is a simple relay wired to the high beam switch- lots of the correct circuit designs out there

mike
Well since I was not sure if mine was putting out a continuous signal I did the timed relay. I can set it for as long of a pulse as I want. It also triggers in both directions which is nice. so whatever beam I am on when I flip the switch it sends the signal. high to open, low to close or vise versa depending what beam I have on when i hit the driveway.

Great mod...I love it!
 
  #916  
Old 11-09-2011, 10:01 AM
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Default Garage Door Opener

Originally Posted by relli
great idea! i bought a garage door opener remote-split the case and wired a momentary switch to it. drilled a hole in the bottom of my windshield bag for the switch, put the remote in the bag. works great for about 20 bucks.
I did a similar option: I have a gate and a garage door - Split the case, mounted it under the fairing and ran / wired two momentary switches above the tach and speedo.

2007 Electra Ultra Classic
Woodie Wallace
Edmond OK
 
  #917  
Old 11-09-2011, 05:08 PM
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Ever notice the underside of your chrome footboards? They are really difficult to polish...pitting and rust soon will set in. To avoid the inevitability I used Permatex Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating available at many auto supply stores and home improvement stores for around $5.

Remove the floorboards from the bike. Mask around the chrome sides and use a sharp blade to cut around the indentations. Stick a pencil through the mounting holes, and wooden match sticks through the weep holes. Cut off the excess material. You are now ready to go with the undercoating.

Per instructions, use a light coating and allow 20 minutes between coats. I put on four coats. My coats were "not light"...and took a couple of days to dry in the sun.

FYI, most floorboards are mounted with two 5/16 inch shoulder bolts with a 1/4 inch x 20 thread and a 3/16 inch hex head cap. The serrated flange nut (1/4 inch x 20 thread) takes a 7/16 inch wrench to remove.


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  #918  
Old 11-14-2011, 09:07 AM
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My solution for the garage door opener was to buy a lever switch at Fry's for $2.50 and buy a small remote from Home Depot for $25. Open the remote and solder wires from the switch of the remote to the lever switch, connectors in between so I can replace switch. I then tie wrapped the opener inside the fuse panel and used JB weld to glue the switch on the inside of the left heat shield. Now I can just reach down and hit the switch even with gloves on. No drilling, no fairing removal. Took about 15 minutes to put it all together and install.
 
  #919  
Old 11-14-2011, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Dorkman
Ever notice the underside of your chrome footboards? They are really difficult to polish...pitting and rust soon will set in. To avoid the inevitability I used Permatex Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating available at many auto supply stores and home improvement stores for around $5.

Remove the floorboards from the bike. Mask around the chrome sides and use a sharp blade to cut around the indentations. Stick a pencil through the mounting holes, and wooden match sticks through the weep holes. Cut off the excess material. You are now ready to go with the undercoating.

Per instructions, use a light coating and allow 20 minutes between coats. I put on four coats. My coats were "not light"...and took a couple of days to dry in the sun.

FYI, most floorboards are mounted with two 5/16 inch shoulder bolts with a 1/4 inch x 20 thread and a 3/16 inch hex head cap. The serrated flange nut (1/4 inch x 20 thread) takes a 7/16 inch wrench to remove.


That's a great idea with awesome innovation but the edges are still susceptible to rust. I drag the left one most every day??? Steel rusts. How do we stop it?

BTW - I'm ashamed to admit I had a 76 toyota corolla heavily undercoated and all it did was hide the holes in the floorboards!!!
 
  #920  
Old 11-19-2011, 10:34 PM
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Default New LEDs in Rear

Originally Posted by BlackMarshmallow
Okay, HD will sell you a brake light mod kit for $54.00 to mod the turn signals into brake light helpers. Anybody know a DIY way to do this?
Just saw today that the new HD Rear LED turn signals do this, out of the box, with no module needed. I was gonna go with LEDs anyway, and they will pass inspection, unlike the Kuryakyns (not DOT). Gonna get them when the money grows on my tree.
 


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