"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
#751
01-26-2011, 06:20 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Backwoods, Alabama
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I have a light fetish. I love bright flashlights, bicycle lights, motorcycle lights, etc. Here's a DYI project that no vendor has yet mass-produced for sale. It works very, very well; except that the LED lamps emit EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) at about 30 mhz. It's not bad, but cuts down the recieve range of the CB radio. I'm trying to create a filter circuit so that the EMI doesn't get out of the fixtures.
The fixtures are old Dyna front turn signal with the guts removed. I made the mounting plates from some scrap stainless that I have in the shop. It's plenty stiff.
The light emitters themselves are brand new technology 6-watt single LEDs. (MR16-W6W White 6Watt LED bulb - Cool White 15 degree MR16-CW6W-C15) I also bought these from superbrightleds.com. They're fairly expensive at almost $40 each, but if the low mount and extremely bright pinpointe lights attract a lefty-turner's attention, the price is cheap.
The left hand lamp isn't mounted yet for these pictures. I had to fabricate the mount because the Dyna left and right turn signals are different. Actually, I believe any of the bullet-shaped fixtures would work fine.
The fixtures are old Dyna front turn signal with the guts removed. I made the mounting plates from some scrap stainless that I have in the shop. It's plenty stiff.
The light emitters themselves are brand new technology 6-watt single LEDs. (MR16-W6W White 6Watt LED bulb - Cool White 15 degree MR16-CW6W-C15) I also bought these from superbrightleds.com. They're fairly expensive at almost $40 each, but if the low mount and extremely bright pinpointe lights attract a lefty-turner's attention, the price is cheap.
The left hand lamp isn't mounted yet for these pictures. I had to fabricate the mount because the Dyna left and right turn signals are different. Actually, I believe any of the bullet-shaped fixtures would work fine.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...s/MR16-W6W.htm
What did you use for a lens?
#753
01-31-2011, 09:55 AM
#754
01-31-2011, 11:05 AM
#755
02-01-2011, 08:58 PM
Rear Speaker Bass Ports
I was about to cut bass ports into my tour pak this last weekend when I discovered they have small holes drilled in the bottom corner of the rear speaker pods for water to drain. I opened that hole to about 1.5" and installed my new speakers. Sound great, cost nothing for a few minutes of time.
For the rear audio guys, you can figure and cut the opening for the speaker based on its specs, I just like that from past experience in my younger days with car audio....
For the rear audio guys, you can figure and cut the opening for the speaker based on its specs, I just like that from past experience in my younger days with car audio....
#756
02-02-2011, 05:19 PM
Another Garage Door Opener DIY
OK, I am the king of morons so it idea of cut to fit wire to work a garage door opener will happen in my next life time. I have a 2011 Road Glide Ultra which happen to come with heat shields by the seats, well there was enough room on the inside of the shield to just velcro my opener to it. Yeah yeah it may get too hot there but I'll see, if so I'll die and come back and wire it to the acc switch, for know the cost was zero and the job was like 3 min max (one sip of the can of beer .
If that doesn't work Ill drill a hole put a switch right on shield and but the opener under the seat, something about drilling holes in my fairing doesn't sit right. Thanks big time for all of the DIY's
If that doesn't work Ill drill a hole put a switch right on shield and but the opener under the seat, something about drilling holes in my fairing doesn't sit right. Thanks big time for all of the DIY's
#757
02-02-2011, 06:00 PM
OK, I am the king of morons so it idea of cut to fit wire to work a garage door opener will happen in my next life time. I have a 2011 Road Glide Ultra which happen to come with heat shields by the seats, well there was enough room on the inside of the shield to just velcro my opener to it. Yeah yeah it may get too hot there but I'll see, if so I'll die and come back and wire it to the acc switch, for know the cost was zero and the job was like 3 min max (one sip of the can of beer .
If that doesn't work Ill drill a hole put a switch right on shield and but the opener under the seat, something about drilling holes in my fairing doesn't sit right. Thanks big time for all of the DIY's
If that doesn't work Ill drill a hole put a switch right on shield and but the opener under the seat, something about drilling holes in my fairing doesn't sit right. Thanks big time for all of the DIY's
Last edited by pretz; 02-02-2011 at 06:07 PM.
#758
02-02-2011, 06:29 PM
My opener run on 3V so I'm looking at just using a switch of the opener, it's just the soldering those wires on those tiny connections that gets me. So a momentary switch and 12 gage wire is all i need? Who had the part number the the HD rubber reset like switch. Just something to put a momentary short on.
#759
02-03-2011, 10:23 AM
Cruiser
#760
02-03-2011, 10:18 PM
I used 20 gauge wire and 12 is too thick so the current will not flow evenly. I bought the switch, wire and wire shrink wrap from Radio Shack. I also went to a hobbie shop and puchased a female and male connector used on RC cars and placed it between the momentaty switch and romote control just in case I needed to remove one for repair.
And like Ben said, scroll back a few pages for detailed links.
And like Ben said, scroll back a few pages for detailed links.