Wrap it with aluminum foil so it doesn't rattle in the point cover. 5 t-20 screws keep it safe.

 

3-4 years ago there were a few threads on horn installations. The solution that I installed and have been very pleased with is to add 2 horns in addition to the stock horn. Fiamm Freeway Blaster (1) High Tone #72102 and (1) Low Tone #72112. I mounted one on each side of the rear fender behind the shocks by using the luggage rack/sissy bar brackets. There is not alot of clearence. Wire the horns to just under the seat and tie the wires together. Using a standard 5 post 30-40 amp automotive relay as follows;#86 battery neg/ground, #30 fused wire from+ terminal on battery, #87a wire from additional horns, #87 capped, #85 wire from horn switch. Horn switch wire was tapped under handle bars into yellow wire with black stripe. Keep the stock look and add considerable horn power. Good luck-

 

For about $25 you can give your harley premium oil cooler the stainless steel braided hose look. You could even argue there is a functional advantage to this to, as the rubber hose is actually sheathed in a stainless steel braid. This would make holes in your cooler lines pretty impossible (although I don't think there is much danger in that with the stock rubber). Here is an excerpt, and a few pictures from another post I did in another thread. Ride on safe!
-clutch-
PS This is a braided fuel line kit they sell at Pep Boys here in Cali. You'll note the kit only comes with 2 of the "threaded connection look" hose clamp covers. Since you have to cut the 3 foot line down into 2 hoses (you'll have some line left over)...you'll need to buy 2 additional hose clamp covers. The Pep Boys I went to was out of them, so I used 2 I had previously bought at autozone. Those 2 are red/blues anodized...the 2 that came with the kit were chrome. So, I used the chrome covers at the oil cooler connections, and the red/blue anodized at the filter adapter connections. Without further delay, here are the original post extract, and pictures:

"...I went to Pep Boys and bought steel braided line in the performance section ($17 for the 3/8 inch X 3 feet kit) and a couple of extra "dressy looking" screw clamps for it (The kit comes with 2, but you need 4). These clamps make the line connections look like screwed/bolted connections. In reality they are typical screw type hose clamps in disguise. Still, it looks much better than the rubber hose and connections that come with the cooler, and the stainless steel braiding is insurance against holes in your line. I'm attaching pics of this also."

 

For a no-nonsense doc holder (registration and insurance) I sewed an extra "flap" under the stock saddlebag lid restraint, open on just one side. Perfect place and that stuff is always right there when I need it.

 

$14 on Bikebandit.com before shipping; not bad at all.....

 

After looking into this issue some more I have found a left side muffler that does work.

Currently I am using a left side stock slash up muffler # 65547-09. Stock, this can is open to a baffle at the end and is lined around the perimeter with what looks to be a steal mesh. I punched 4 holes in the baffle (5/16") and drilled 2 in the end of muffler (3/8"). What was the outside of the muffler, but is now the inside, needs to be dimpled opposite the factory dimple to allow for clearance on the bike.

I am happy with the sound of this muffler and have not experienced a bluing problem, or a loss of fuel mileage.

The irony comes from that fact that I did not look inside the 09 mufflers I ordered from eBay. Despite the dents, scratches, dirt and the fact that they were not what I ordered, it is likely the right side muffler would have worked.

On a side note:
The 510G S&S gear set eliminated the decel and mid-shift backfire and made the exhaust note louder.

 

EASY DIY to shorten your windshield. All you need is a hand held jig saw with a narrow scroll type blade. Perfect result in about 20 minutes.

1. Remove windshield.
2. Duct tape the bottom of the windshield to cover the area of the new cut and three strips above that to prevent scratches from the saw bottom.
3. Use an old windshield or borrow one to trace the bottom edge onto the duct tape with a marker pen at the height you want.
4. I used a cardboard box of catalogs to support the curved windshield off my workbench and cut it on the marked lines. It doesn't have to be perfect, no one will ever see it.
5. Don't cut it too short the first time! You can always shorten it again, but you can't make it taller.
6. Remove tape and wash it in your sink.
7. Save the cut off portion as a template for the next windshield mod.

Warning, your friends will be asking you to shorten their windshields. I charge a case of Michelob Golden Light to do that. Unfortunately, that turns a 10 minute project into two hours. If I have to do two windshields there is no warranty on the second one.

Have fun!
HDNutcase

I used to have a handle on life, but it broke.

 

]I did the stebel airhorn mod to make it fit under the stock cowbell. Worked awesome, and seems like the cowbell actually makes the already loud 139db horn LOUDER! Great mod!

 

When I installed my solo seat, I was surprised to find out no one seems to sell a cover for the mounting holes. I bought 6 ea, 3/8 and 2 ea, 5/16 chrome bolts, chased the hole threads, slapped on some anti-sieze and tightened them in. Now it no longer looks like somethings missing.

 

I never been a "Fan" of duel exhaust on a "bagger" so I yanked the head pipe off ... did a Lil trimming and welding...and here's the finished product...( I phone camera a little blurry)