You'll need 2 sections of 18ga wire about 12" long. Clip the stock horn wires about 6" behind the connectors. Remove your gas tank and top cover from the wire tray on the backbone. Locate the horn wires in the tray. Pull the stock horn wires from between the cylinders up into the wire tray. Splice in your 12" extensions. Use heatshrink tubing to protect your splice connections. Run the horn wires in the wire tray along the right side toward the front of the bike. Cut a 12-18" section of 3/8" wire loom and wrap the wires from where they exit the wire tray to the connectors. There's a threaded stud on the backside of the horn; locate one of the two round holes on the crossmember and pass the horn stud through the hole. *Note - if your bike is a 2014 or newer the stud will actually thread into either of the holes on the crossmember. If your bike is a 2013 or older the stud will pass all the way through the hole in the crossmember and you'll need a nut to secure the horn to the crossmember. As always, don't forget to use loctite. Connect the horn wires to the horn and test it to make sure it functions properly. Replace the wire tray cover and reinstall the tank and you're done. Shouldn't take any longer than an hour.
You'll need 2 sections of 18ga wire about 12" long. Clip the stock horn wires about 6" behind the connectors. Remove your gas tank and top cover from the wire tray on the backbone. Locate the horn wires in the tray. Pull the stock horn wires from between the cylinders up into the wire tray. Splice in your 12" extensions. Use heatshrink tubing to protect your splice connections. Run the horn wires in the wire tray along the right side toward the front of the bike. Cut a 12-18" section of 3/8" wire loom and wrap the wires from where they exit the wire tray to the connectors. There's a threaded stud on the backside of the horn; locate one of the two round holes on the crossmember and pass the horn stud through the hole. *Note - if your bike is a 2014 or newer the stud will actually thread into either of the holes on the crossmember. If your bike is a 2013 or older the stud will pass all the way through the hole in the crossmember and you'll need a nut to secure the horn to the crossmember. As always, don't forget to use loctite. Connect the horn wires to the horn and test it to make sure it functions properly. Replace the wire tray cover and reinstall the tank and you're done. Shouldn't take any longer than an hour.
That is a great rainy day mod!! I have kicked that around for a while now. my horn doesn't even work really well, can't hardly hear it over the pipes. I did this to my street bob (before i traded for the geezer-glide)..... let them jugs be free
( o Y o )
I know this isn't a mod but I really got sick of digging to the bottom of the tour pack looking for my glasses only to find they were scratched so I came up with this.....
I took a piece of thin sheet metal and bent it to slip over the tour pack liner, I then took some eye glass head bands (the things that attach to the glass arms and go over your neck so when u take them off they hang around your neck) I slipped the band under the sheet metal and slid it down tight, I then took a pair of pliers and pinched the metal as tight as it would go and walahhh a place to keep my day or night glasses safe and easily findable!!! Hope you like it.
Last edited by 2-whlz; 06-16-2015 at 08:37 AM.
Reason: Damn auto correct
So my stock grips were getting very sticky and black residue was getting on my hands. To replace these heated grips is a PITA. So, I bought some grip wrap that people use on a tennis racket, black, very comfortable, and problem is solved. Should be fine when grips are on but I never turn mine on anyway.
06-02-2015, 10:58 PM
Horn Relocation
