Don't know if this is so much a tip or trick but when I initially installed my passenger footboard cover I stripped out one if the holes when installing the cheesy self tapping screws. So yesterday when I was replacing the derby cover T27 screws with some chrome hex button head screws the I had to chase the derby cover screw hole threads with a 1/4-20 tap to clean out the old thread lock residue. That was a perfect time to try out my plan of red rolling and tapping the footboard cover holes to 1/4-20 and putting a better screw in. So I did and the results were great. No more striped hole to think about and I end up with a nice matching look with that hardware. Gardner-Westcott Button Head Allen Screws - Coarse Thread 1/4in.-20 x 5/8in. - H-D#3653 13208 from the Powersports Superstore (also on Amazon). Best price I found direct. 10pc for $14.23 delivered. A tad higher on Amazon. I also believe that a 1/2" length would work as well or better for all.

 

Yes, the racks have quick disconnects to/from the bike. The tour-pak to the rack, however was four nuts/bolts/washers. Very awkward to keep a wrench on the inside and run a ratchet on the outside while the lid was slamming down on your arm and the rack was sliding around on the workbench.

I didn't want to spend $699 on another tour-pak and keep that big thing hanging out on a wall in my garage.

Here's a video of how it works. Let's hope the link works!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvU1...ature=youtu.be

 

I missed the part about going from two up to solo, WITH the tour-pak. I was just thinking with and without it. AWESOME.

 

Thanks for the video. It really pulls it all together. You really came up with a terrific cost effective method.

 

Paddy, thanks for the video! Now I understand, and I think I might try to see if this works with my current setup on my Ultra. GREAT IDEA, and thanks again!

 

how did you attach the one to the lid strap itself. I see how the other one is mounted.

 

I really miss having helmet locks as standard equipment. And, there are just no really good points to lock to but here's what I've come up with. I wear a full face but this option will work with any helmet. How's this for a cheap and easy option: you already have the clutch cable clamp on the left side of the forks. So I thought if there was a matching on on the right side that it would look perfectly normal and provide a perfect place to run a lock hasp through. Check the pics. It works beautifully. It's one of the few areas on my '09 FLHR that isn't hot after riding and with the front wheel turned max left it's easy access. I use the helmet lock adaptor through my Nolan N102 chin strap buckle. These work equally with D rings. But in this system you could just run the lock hasp through the D rings and no extra hardware to carry. The lock hangs from the saddlebag Dzus loop for easy access. Super cheap and easy. Secure enough for my purposes.

The HD P/N for the clamp is 9990W and costs under a dollar!

 

Harley air shocks and Honda Goldwing shocks are the same shock. Go on Eboy and do a search for the controls off of a Goldwing...tons of new and used parts to get the job done, to include LOW volume, LOW pressure air compressors (which are hard to find just by searching the web for generic ones) and electric valving to release and add air. I purchased the whole set up off of a newer GW, including the digital "dash" control. It has the pressure displayed in digital format, plus has the buttons to adjust the shocks. Now I just have to find the time to install all this stuff.

Speed Safely!

 

I have the push button fuel door lock on my bike. I found it wasn't easy pushing the button down the hole, so I had an idea. I had some rubber dots sitting in my tool box and put one of those dots on the button part and this works great. even works without having to take my gloves off.

 

This is my helmet lock. Will lock 2 helmets easy, too.
Reset-able combo, padded to not scratch, hook on handlebar, or whatever.
I keep it in a saddlebag or pouch.
Can be found for $5.