thanks but

dielectric grease can hold moisture at a joint- so sometimes it is not an advantage, the scotchlok is a similar material to the conductor.
I do use cramolin

2.) soldered joints do not do well in environments where there are vibrations.
the wire strands will tend to break ( from flexing) right where the tinning ends.
I solder for a living, and found out the hard way why most of the wiring on all my bikes and cars is crimped
Mike

 

I agree about the soldering creates a flex point. That's when the use of heat shrink with sealant comes in handy... just like the automotive splices. That use a crimp to hold wires then soldered. Solder is the best form of electrical connections.

I also like to solder terminals that are a critical connections like sensor grounds and CAN BUS communication or where voltage drop is sensitive.

 

my scotch lock died...it had such a small surface area, that it finally overheated & corroded it self & the wire. i guess it was carrying the full current of the spot lights.

so I had to cut & splice it all to get the spots to stay on.


stay away from scotch locks....


IRT solder, I usually crimp (mechanical connection) then solder (electrical/low resistance connection) then heat shrink TWICE (vibration resistant) and then tie wrap it to something.

 

Why did I click this link!!! Too much to do now!

 

There went the entire day at work looking at 144 pages of GFIs.

 

Great ideas. Will take a while to sort through it all.
What do I do first???

 

I made a list when I read through the whole thing. Too bad I have misplaced the list.

 

(not directed solely at you MK)
I've seen a whole lot of discussions about "Aux/high beam" mods and I have to ask, is there any particular reason nobody seems to simply plug into the orange/white wire in the headlamp harness?
This wire exits the harness just a few inches back from the headlamp connector, ends in a female spade terminal, is switched only at the ignition switch and (from what I can gather) is intended to be used as an auxiliary power lead. When I installed my Kury aux lights I simply installed the Kury male spades into the OEM female spade, taped it up and tied it off. My aux lights are always on any time the ignition is on. No muss no fuss.

You can see it taped to the harness below

 

But now you can't turn them off when riding in a group and you don't have the auxiliarly power hook up.

My reason any way.

I found two different power connections in the fairing. I use one for my amplified antenna and the other runs out to charge my phone.

 

Not a "FREE" DIY mod but really cheap.......
A couple of guys noticed a volt meter on my seat when I posted earlier (see pic 1) . As a corvette and Harley owner my stuff sits sometimes (especially in the winter) and a couple of times my battery tender was showing charged but was wrong (tender was junk)., another time I must of kicked it loose etc.. and there's Nothing worse then racing home from work to find your toy dead.
So to eliminate this from happening I bought some simple volt gauges and battery tender plugs and made up a solution. You simply plug it inline from your tender lead to your bike lead (no other connectors are required) and walla!!! You instantly know your battery voltage and everyday I go to work I sneak a peak at my toys to make sure battery voltage is good.
I sit mine in my seat crack and its a great piece of mind for all us battery tender guys.
It also serves as a charging system checker. just plug it in and look for voltage to be between 13.2-14.1 is correct depending on the state of your battery of course.
ride safe, paul

Video of the volt meter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dapE...ature=youtu.be