"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
#1251
Can you post a pix of the guts? Just cut around the outside and it slides out?
well here's something to think about for a cheaper muffler mod. i found some factory slip ons from the local independant shop that were taken off a 2013 Street Glide.... the owner didn't want them any more so that's where the "CHEAP" price comes in.... and then cut factory baffles out!! BAM you have an almost 3.5" slip on with a deep deep rumble and not deafening at highway speeds!
here's some pics of the 2 pipes next to each other. notice the difference in size. pipes are the same length, the factory 2013's off the street glide are angle cut at the tips compared to straight cut on the ultra classic.
-factory ultra classic pipe exit measures right at 3"
-factory street glide pipe is just a fart skin over 3-3/8" (not at the tip, measured at the weld where the baffle was at)
-first pic is the new 2013 street glides installed and the factory UC pipe next to it
-second pic is the factory pipe measurement.
-third pic is the 2013 street glide pipe measurement.
so in conclusion.... cheap slip ons (i'm sure you can find some for real cheap that someone has sitting in the shed), time to cut baffles out, a decent flapper sanding wheel, and about 10min to kind of pretty them up, and you have a non-honda sounding bike with factory pipes.
here's some pics of the 2 pipes next to each other. notice the difference in size. pipes are the same length, the factory 2013's off the street glide are angle cut at the tips compared to straight cut on the ultra classic.
-factory ultra classic pipe exit measures right at 3"
-factory street glide pipe is just a fart skin over 3-3/8" (not at the tip, measured at the weld where the baffle was at)
-first pic is the new 2013 street glides installed and the factory UC pipe next to it
-second pic is the factory pipe measurement.
-third pic is the 2013 street glide pipe measurement.
so in conclusion.... cheap slip ons (i'm sure you can find some for real cheap that someone has sitting in the shed), time to cut baffles out, a decent flapper sanding wheel, and about 10min to kind of pretty them up, and you have a non-honda sounding bike with factory pipes.
#1252
i didn't get a pic when they were cut out..... chucked the baffle in the iron bin and headed out. one of them has a second inner cone as well.
here's a pic off the web of what the center part looks like. if you take a light and shine into the muffler you'll see the end is crimped and the exhaust only has a few small holes to escape from.
all together, for the cheap "DIY" mods i have less than $150 tied up in pipes, highway pegs, lens tint, and of course bag bar and bumper removal.
here's a pic off the web of what the center part looks like. if you take a light and shine into the muffler you'll see the end is crimped and the exhaust only has a few small holes to escape from.
all together, for the cheap "DIY" mods i have less than $150 tied up in pipes, highway pegs, lens tint, and of course bag bar and bumper removal.
Last edited by TeamMudd; 04-11-2013 at 09:08 PM.
#1254
an Acetylene torch with a small tip, you don't need a demolition tip (very large and cuts very fast). there's no packing inside the factory mufflers.
if you cut the whole inner bell out, that center piece comes out with it and it leaves the pipe completely open! gave mine a nice deep sound at idle and a nice throaty rumble on acceleration, and not a ear piercing roar at highway speeds!
if you cut the whole inner bell out, that center piece comes out with it and it leaves the pipe completely open! gave mine a nice deep sound at idle and a nice throaty rumble on acceleration, and not a ear piercing roar at highway speeds!
#1255
Did you remove the inner cone also or leave it?
I just started cutting mine out with a dremmel and cut off wheels. I got 3/4 around one and the little wheels are just not tough enough. I will get a better wheel and use a drill and try again later.
Question, I am cutting just in front of the weld, does it come out easy or you have to work it out? Looks tight!
I just started cutting mine out with a dremmel and cut off wheels. I got 3/4 around one and the little wheels are just not tough enough. I will get a better wheel and use a drill and try again later.
Question, I am cutting just in front of the weld, does it come out easy or you have to work it out? Looks tight!
i didn't get a pic when they were cut out..... chucked the baffle in the iron bin and headed out. one of them has a second inner cone as well.
here's a pic off the web of what the center part looks like. if you take a light and shine into the muffler you'll see the end is crimped and the exhaust only has a few small holes to escape from.
all together, for the cheap "DIY" mods i have less than $150 tied up in pipes, highway pegs, lens tint, and of course bag bar and bumper removal.
here's a pic off the web of what the center part looks like. if you take a light and shine into the muffler you'll see the end is crimped and the exhaust only has a few small holes to escape from.
all together, for the cheap "DIY" mods i have less than $150 tied up in pipes, highway pegs, lens tint, and of course bag bar and bumper removal.
#1256
#1258
#1259
Did mine and started wih a 3" but found it jumped around way to much to bite in. So I drilled a hole and used a jigsaw, worked well and had good control of the cut. But one blade didnt do both pipes. All I had on hand was a recip saw for the last 1/2". Once done I should of have used jigsaw with extra blades. Was the best way for me.
#1260
I don't want the full open pipe, just cut out the inner bell baffle in front of the weld and see how that sounds. That will leave about 1.5" opening which should be good and give a little back pressure. The open pipe has a strange echo or hollow can sound from the clips I hear. Might be nice in person so I will start with that.