Stage 1 Kit question
#1
#2
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Stage 1 is
1. Air Cleaner
2. Better flowing mufflers
3. Fuel controller
With this combination, your bike will have more HP and run cooler. There are so many options, I will leave that up to you. You can look at what I did and see pictures in my gallery.
Let us all know if you need help. Everyone here has an oppinion and some of them are actually worth hearing.
Steve L.
1. Air Cleaner
2. Better flowing mufflers
3. Fuel controller
With this combination, your bike will have more HP and run cooler. There are so many options, I will leave that up to you. You can look at what I did and see pictures in my gallery.
Let us all know if you need help. Everyone here has an oppinion and some of them are actually worth hearing.
Steve L.
#3
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I am in the same boat that you are. I also have an 08 Road King Classic and it runs hotter than hell. I have done alot of research on this and earlier today I got back from my Harley dealership feeling a tiny bit better. Here we go...the reason the 07&08's run hotter is because of the NBO2's (narrow band oxygensensors) that are in each exhaust pipe. The EPA has mandated a certain emission standard for everything made after Jan1 2007. To obtain this standard, the AFR (air fuel ratio) must be set to 14.7 to 1 which is very lean to begin with. The only way to get the engine to run cooler is to alter the fuel map to adjust the AFRaround (optimal setting) between 13.0 to 1 and 13.4 to 1. Now, the pre 07 engines could do this easily with a power commander, V&H fuel pak or Harley SERT (screaming eagle race tuner) however when the NBO2's were introduced, the only thing that can be used to change the fuel map( and still have the bike preform) is the SERT. Power Commander is working on an upgrade I have been toldto work with the NBO2's but has not released it yet.
There are companies that are selling "jumpers" or "shunts" that plug in line with the NBO2's claiming to default the AFRto around 12.0 to 1 which will make the bike run @ 100 degrees cooler, or are makingWBO2's (wide band oxygen sensors) and those are more complicated yet. They will work but are not just "plug and play" there will still need to be a re-map on a dyno with a SERT installed.
Bottom line is, see your Local (and reliable) harley dealer and talk to them, read other posts in the forums. I have found alot of good, and a little misleading info here.
I personaly am going to get the SERT, screaming eagle airfilter and Rinehart exhaust. with labor and dyno time was quoted about 1300.00
Hope I was some help, if not...i need the typing practice anyway. LOL
-DZ-
There are companies that are selling "jumpers" or "shunts" that plug in line with the NBO2's claiming to default the AFRto around 12.0 to 1 which will make the bike run @ 100 degrees cooler, or are makingWBO2's (wide band oxygen sensors) and those are more complicated yet. They will work but are not just "plug and play" there will still need to be a re-map on a dyno with a SERT installed.
Bottom line is, see your Local (and reliable) harley dealer and talk to them, read other posts in the forums. I have found alot of good, and a little misleading info here.
I personaly am going to get the SERT, screaming eagle airfilter and Rinehart exhaust. with labor and dyno time was quoted about 1300.00
Hope I was some help, if not...i need the typing practice anyway. LOL
-DZ-
#4
#5
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biggest culprit as mentioned is the lean AFR. it causes the engine to run much hotter than the previous non-EPA mandated bikes. Use a fuel controller (SERT, PC, etc.) to richen up the mixture. also suggest adding a AN BS. To further help, add a set of RJs Original heat shields. they REALLY do work and make a big difference!! Search the forum here and you will see a lot of happy customers with them.
![](http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l179/hogglider/DSC03433.jpg)
![](http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l179/hogglider/DSC03424.jpg)
![](http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l179/hogglider/DSC03433.jpg)
![](http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l179/hogglider/DSC03424.jpg)
#6
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ORIGINAL: MFA
Thanks for the replys. However, I am not intetrested on changing my stock pipes. I have adequate power, I just want the bike to run cooler. I am trying to find out the simplest (or cheapest) solution for that issue.
Thanks for the replys. However, I am not intetrested on changing my stock pipes. I have adequate power, I just want the bike to run cooler. I am trying to find out the simplest (or cheapest) solution for that issue.
I chose to install a true duals conversion kit to get rid of the hot pipe on the right side. The cheapest is called Fullsac. I bought the Torres conversion kit because it is nicely chromed.
I am guessing that the reason you want your bike to run cooler is concern over engine life. If that is the case and you don't want to change anything then do just that. Don't change a thing. There are thousands of people out there riding the hell out of stock bikes. Maybe you should do that and spend your money on an extended warranty. I'm not trying to be a smart *** here. Many people choose this route.
Another thing you can do is buy a PCIII and install it on your stock bike. I did it for a few weeks and I noticed the bike ran cooler. The PCIII comes from the factory with the "0" map intalled for a stock bike.
Just trying to help.
Steve L.
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