The master cylinders on single and twin rotor setups ARE different.

 

Send your old parts to me. I only have one disc... (FXDWG)

Keith

 

I've been wanting to ask this question: since there are only 25 lbs, difference between the Street Glide and the Heritage Classic, why does the Heritage only have one front disc? I guess the same would apply to the Deluxe and Fatboy as well, even though they are slightly lighter. To me, 25 lbs. is not much difference.

 

One of the main reasons for the additional brake on the baggers is not what they weigh stock -- but what they could potentially weight when fully loaded. Sure, the Heritage has only one disk up front. But not too many people are going to call upon that bike to do what we do with our Ultras and Glides -- namely, load them up with a lot more weight, add a passenger, and sometimes put a trailer in the mix.

I'm assuming that you don't take the front brakes off your car if you are traveling solo... Why would you apply that philosophy to your bike???

 

But I have seen Softails loaded and with a trailer and riding two up. They make Softail specific trailer hitches, so you would think that HD would have anticipated that and decided that one disc was enough. But I know what your saying, it makes sense, but people regularley do load up their Heritage Classic and hit the roads with only one disc.

As far as your car comparo- Its different physics all together. Brakes on one side of the car only would pull to that side when braking, not so on a bike.

I heard something somewhere about the percentage of stopping power on this debate. I don't remember the numbers exactly so I'm just gonna make some up, but I think it went something like this;

If dual stock discs represent 100% of your stopping power, Only one stock disc would represent 90% (the extra disc is only about 10% increase, not 50% like some think), And if you took that one disc setup and replaced it with a good aftermarket setup (pads, rotors, calipers, etc.) it would be a 25% increase over the stock one disc making it 15% better than stock duals.

Like I said, I'm not quoting, that argument stuck in my head (percentages aren't accurate, but you get the idea) and it came from someone I respected as knowledgeable.

I'm just trying to get some hard answers here, so keep the comments coming. I'll be out of town and can't check the net for a few days, but I'll post on Thursday.

fatguy

 

If anybody has some facts on this subject, I am interested....

Santa gave the nod for some new wheels. So now I need to figure out the brake set-up. I can buy two new 11.5" rotors to match the wheels and use my stock HD calipers or for basically the same cost I can change to a single sided 13" rotor and six piston PM caliper. If I do that I would go stainless braided lines, Lydell (?) Z pads, etc. What would I be losing from a braking performance stand point? Not sure it matters but I am going 21" up front.

Here is info related to the master cylinder. I did not realize it had to be changed.
I already have chrome lowers and won't be turning the caliper mounts off because I plan to keep the wheels, rotors, etc., if I sell.....to put on the next bagger!!!


Thanks

 

One thang ya'll seem ta be overlookin' is brake heat. Ya ever had brake fade 'cuz they git hot? Lemme tell ya - it'll ruin yer day worse than the porch light comin' on at yer girls' house jest 'bout the time yer gettin' ta third base....

 

I did it. Added a PM 6 piston and floating rotor to the other side,so I only lost 25%

 

360 Brake from Bart @ Cateye Customs

 

BryanTTM is right. If you want less "rotor clutter" on the front, dump both the rotors and go with the 360 Brake set-up.