engine upgrade..
#1
#2
RE: engine upgrade..
It's really gonna depend on what you'd like to accomplish.
Do yourself a favor and do (continue) you homework on this before you make a decision. THere are tons of options out there. Some are better than others. Some are total a waste of $$$.
Your best bet is to make yourself a list of criteria that you'd like for your build to do. Then look for known good "packages" that will get you to your goal. There are tons of good or great parts out there, but they do not all work well together.
Select a "package" made of of components that are known to COMPLIMENT one another.
Do yourself a favor and do (continue) you homework on this before you make a decision. THere are tons of options out there. Some are better than others. Some are total a waste of $$$.
Your best bet is to make yourself a list of criteria that you'd like for your build to do. Then look for known good "packages" that will get you to your goal. There are tons of good or great parts out there, but they do not all work well together.
Select a "package" made of of components that are known to COMPLIMENT one another.
#3
RE: engine upgrade..
First, as PhilM said, decide what performance level you want and the $$$ available. There are so many possible combinations of heads, cams, pistons, dispacements, and exhaust systems that it is not only mind-boggling to contemplate the "right" combination using a "cafeteria" approach, but far too easy to pick incompatible combinations resulting in wasted $$$.
Second, study the HD catalog and the HD Screamin Eagle Pro Racing Parts catalog for their packages and the dyno results printed in them. That will give you a pretty good idea of the performance and parts prices for the HD stuff.
Third, consider the aftermarket products. These can be classified as basically "street port-based" builds and "full head port-based" builds. The former would be heads hand-ported without removing the valve guides--not removing the valve guides limits the shaping of the head, and is less expensive than the "full head" porting. Full head porting will provide greater flow and potentially greater performance, provided compatible cams, pistons, etc. are selected.
Like the SE stuff, look for packages of heads, cylinders, pistons, cams, etc. and talk to the vendors for pricing and compatibility with your performance goals and budget.
Most of the aftermarket packages are offered by relatively small companies where it is common to telephone the owner and get your questions answered.
My '04 EG will be gettinga Head-Quarters 95", 10.5:1 forged pistons, full head porting,HQ-0034 cam, etc. build with Rinehart TD's and a SERT tune. Many other HDF'ers have done this same/similar build with outstanding results; so I know this package is reliable and powerful for MY '04 goals and budget.
My good friend is doing a Head-Quarters 113", 10.5:1, etc. build for somewhat more $$$, but that package will meet or exceedHIS goals within his budget.
Other HDF'ers have done builds using street ported heads,lower and greater compression ratios, etc. and have been pleased with their builds. And others have done HD SE builds with which they were pleased.
My build will essentially skip the street ported, flat-top piston type builds because I know that even though that approach is less expensive than the HQ build with full head porting, forged domed pistons, etc., and it would be an improvement over what I currently have,it would be only a matter of time, less than a year, and I would be doing the HQ build. So why pay for street porting heads (and new stock valves, springs, etc.) that I will be replacing with fully machined heads (with larger valves, springs, etc)? Why buy flat top cast pistons when I will be replacing them with forged, domed pistons? And why tear apart the top of the engine twice?
Also, the HD SE packages tend to be, IMHO, relatively poor value for the performance they deliver.
Frankly, your original question is a bit like asking whatdo you guys like todrink. Some guys will prefer beer, others scotch, others Diet Coke, etc. Only you know what you like (and what budget you will provide).
Good luck with your research. It's your bike and your $$$--get what you want, but be a knowledgeable consumer and avoid wasting $$$ on components that don't work well together.
Second, study the HD catalog and the HD Screamin Eagle Pro Racing Parts catalog for their packages and the dyno results printed in them. That will give you a pretty good idea of the performance and parts prices for the HD stuff.
Third, consider the aftermarket products. These can be classified as basically "street port-based" builds and "full head port-based" builds. The former would be heads hand-ported without removing the valve guides--not removing the valve guides limits the shaping of the head, and is less expensive than the "full head" porting. Full head porting will provide greater flow and potentially greater performance, provided compatible cams, pistons, etc. are selected.
Like the SE stuff, look for packages of heads, cylinders, pistons, cams, etc. and talk to the vendors for pricing and compatibility with your performance goals and budget.
Most of the aftermarket packages are offered by relatively small companies where it is common to telephone the owner and get your questions answered.
My '04 EG will be gettinga Head-Quarters 95", 10.5:1 forged pistons, full head porting,HQ-0034 cam, etc. build with Rinehart TD's and a SERT tune. Many other HDF'ers have done this same/similar build with outstanding results; so I know this package is reliable and powerful for MY '04 goals and budget.
My good friend is doing a Head-Quarters 113", 10.5:1, etc. build for somewhat more $$$, but that package will meet or exceedHIS goals within his budget.
Other HDF'ers have done builds using street ported heads,lower and greater compression ratios, etc. and have been pleased with their builds. And others have done HD SE builds with which they were pleased.
My build will essentially skip the street ported, flat-top piston type builds because I know that even though that approach is less expensive than the HQ build with full head porting, forged domed pistons, etc., and it would be an improvement over what I currently have,it would be only a matter of time, less than a year, and I would be doing the HQ build. So why pay for street porting heads (and new stock valves, springs, etc.) that I will be replacing with fully machined heads (with larger valves, springs, etc)? Why buy flat top cast pistons when I will be replacing them with forged, domed pistons? And why tear apart the top of the engine twice?
Also, the HD SE packages tend to be, IMHO, relatively poor value for the performance they deliver.
Frankly, your original question is a bit like asking whatdo you guys like todrink. Some guys will prefer beer, others scotch, others Diet Coke, etc. Only you know what you like (and what budget you will provide).
Good luck with your research. It's your bike and your $$$--get what you want, but be a knowledgeable consumer and avoid wasting $$$ on components that don't work well together.
#4
RE: engine upgrade..
If you want to spend under 3 grand HQ 95 or 98 bolt on big bore kits, if skys the limit, HQ 113 "street destroyer" garrantyed to destroy your clutch and shred your rear tire!!!
I recomend staying away SE bolt on cylinder heads for lack of flexability in engine builts.
use modded OE heads!
dont forget a good ignition, DTT or similar if carburated or SERT or Thunder max if injected.
D&D factcat pipe or equivelant and some $$$ for a good tune!
I recomend staying away SE bolt on cylinder heads for lack of flexability in engine builts.
use modded OE heads!
dont forget a good ignition, DTT or similar if carburated or SERT or Thunder max if injected.
D&D factcat pipe or equivelant and some $$$ for a good tune!
#6
#7
RE: engine upgrade..
I did the upgrade on my '05 from 88 to 103. Blew the first engine on a ride to west Texas; had it replaced, but still had to go back 5 times to fix problems/leaks finally got rid of it for an '08. Loved the additional torque of the 103, but I do a lot of "two up" riding and had to have a dependable ride. Would I do it again? No, or I'd do it myself w/an S&S. I wouldn't let the dealer split the cases which is necessary if you're going from an 88 to a 103. Of course, if your shop does it right and has a 'long history' of doing it right then "why not"! I have two life long Harley rider friends (one a respected wrench) who have said, get a new bike and leave it the **** alone! I'm following their advise, at least for a while!
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