Well, I finally got into my 360 brake after putting it off for other projects. I want to get this done before the bike got back on the road next weekend.

Anyway to catch everyone up I put the brake on with my new wheels and went through the manufactures recommended brake in process, but have had this rubbing or squeal every time I stop coming from the front brake.

Well after several attempts to contact the manufacturer both via E-Mail and leaving voice mails and never getting a return I took the advice of a few other members on this forum who have had other problems with this brake. They recommended 2 things

1 - Flush the dot 5 fluid and replace with dot 4. This is do to the boiling point of the dot 4 fluid being much higher then the dot 5.
and
2 - Sand both the friction surfaces on the brake as this is what may be causing the noise.

Well both of these made perfect since to me. So Saturday after I got done with another project off comes the front wheel and brake. As soon as I started to take the brake apart to sand the friction surfaces I noticed that one of the bolts was broke in half.

Here is the broken bolt...
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...Bolt_Broke.jpg

Well luckily I was able to get the other half of the bolt out easily, and they used standard cap head bolts so sanded the friction surfaces and replaced all 6 bolts and put everything back together. We will see if the noise is gone once I have my tank and seat back and installed and she is back on the road.

Jeff

 

Any idea how the bolt broke?

 

That looks to be an Unbrako bolt.. 180,000 psiMinimum Tensile Strength (AFive74) It is by far no standard bolt..... It looks to be broken in shear... I could tell better if turned so I could see the break... Be careful replacing it with a non-compatible bolt. I wouldnt use anything but a grade 8..... For what its worth....
****EDIT****
To confirm Unbrako there should be stamping on the top of the head.... None the less it is a grade 8

 

A bolt is a rather small thing. Once you work out these little problems, you will forget about it. I have never seen one of these 360 brakes, just read about them over the last few years, however, I have been very excited to hear about the performance these brakes must be capable of.

I have heard that they are going to be used on Superbikes for its no-fade stopping power. I do not care one thing on how they look, however, if they stop great, just think of the loss of rotating mass I would realize. I make my Harleys really handle well. I think this would be the greatest thing ever if you can get rid of the rotating mass. Remember rotating mass squares itself as velocity increases. ie: A 46 lb 2007 Fatboy wheel at 40 mph weighs approximately 4 X its own weight. A bicycle tire (26”) is harder to turn (holding it, by itself & not on the bike) than your 16”/or same diameter rim! Please let me know what your performance is as far as stopping power goes. It should be a vast improvement. If it works for you, I will think on putting them on my 16" Carbon Fiber wheels & inverted front end. Thanks in advance.

 

Its called inertia: the resistance an object has to a change in its state of motion..... Otherwise known as a change in velocity.... The more mass an object has the more inertia and the more it takes to change direction... Newtons first law of motion.....

 

Thanks, I did not wish to confuse or sound like a azz with big terminology. For Formulas see my web site on the issue discussed http://motorcyclemetal.com/gpage4.html got to bottom of page for link to sub pages.
I do not wish to hijack this thread and get off on a tangent. I do wish to know about this product as I have a dresser I am doing right now. Thanks for clarifying!

PS: this is very good info on the bolt, jskwarek that SpikeCT gave you. The harder the bolt the more brittle it becomes, however, I am sure that the people who manufacture the 360 brake has done exhaustive testing & R&D to develope this innovative product. Hope all turns out well.

 

My opinion is that it was over torque and broke due to stress. It may have always been broke and I just found it when I opened it up. Not sure, it is fixed now and the friction surfaces are all sanded and the fluid is flushed so hopefully when the rest of the parts are in and I have the bike back on the road this brake will be a distant memory and just another nice product that I don't have to worry about.

To answer the other questions. Yes it was a grade 8 bolt originally and it was replaced with the same type of grade 8 bolt. I went ahead and replaced all 6 just to be safe as I have learned that grade 8 bolts don't stretch and will get weaker once they are torqued and removed. I re torqued the bolts to 150 IN-Lbs and I went ahead and added a little blue lock tight for good measure.

Jeff

 

Machine screws are tension devices. They are meant to stretch just the right amount. If it isn't stretching at all it's not torqued enough. If it can't be torqued enough it's not the right part for the application.

 

Glens,
You lost me??? No one is talking about machine screws. These are Grade 8 Cap head bolts. You over torque them the don't stretch they break.

Jeff

 

The term "machine screws" encompasses socket-head capscrews, among others. If they have threads and they're not for use in wood, they're pretty much "machine screws."

All screws will fail if you over-torque them. That's why, depending upon the tension you require in the assembly, you specify particular grades of metal. You want them to stretch just the right amount for the application. Too much, and you know what happens. Too little and they're unreliable (will tend to loosen at the blink of an eye) which can also result in them breaking, only this time with a shearing action if/as the parts move relative to each other..