PaPaTravis wanted more info from my build since I was still carb'ed.Keep in mind I did not build for Peak HP... I'm still at a 5500 RPM Rev Limiter. Wanted good torque and good mileage.

The simple build was:

2000 EG STD with
Mikuni HSR 42 Flat Slide, pilot = 20, Main = 165, Needle on Groove 2, Pump = 50
Andrews 26G Cams
S&S Gear Drive
Screamin Eagle Pro 1 Slip Ons.
SE Air Filter
Stock HD Header Pipes

Fuel Mileage: 2 Tanks, 95% Open Flat Road, Two up (350# for both of us) Running 75 MPH with a decent headwind of about 10 to 15 mph. 39.98 MPG. (was around 27 before this build)


Dyno Run: (Not Tuned - Left it where it was).
86.79 DegF, 29.92 inHg, 51% Humidity
Max HP: 78.48 @ 5500 (was a tad lean. Could go up another size on the Main Jet).
Torque Curve: Comes in at 60 Ft.Lbs @ 2100, Peaks at 91.85 @ 3750 and then back to 60# @ 5200.
Curve is pretty straight from 3000 to 4000 rpm.

Tuner said I could bump the Main up a size and probably bust 80 hp @ 5500 and figured if I did the SE Ignition with the 6200 RPM Red Line it would be mid 80's HP. (Guessing).

 

So, did nobody like these numbers or just Carb. Avoidance Syndrome? Looks like it's up there with the the 95" and 96" engines that have Minor mods by looking at the other Dyno Sheets.

 

I like the numbers. We both know that most here don't have carbs, and like you said, seem to avoid a post with carb in the title. LOL Oh well. I think it is something I need to do. Not sure about changing out my carb, though, but the cam is something that is on my list. Thanks again for the info. I was away from the pc for a couple of days (grounded. ) LOL, thanks again for posting.

 

Yeah, us carb guys are just knuckle-draggin' club toten' cavemen who refuse to get out of the stoneage of technology
I like it here in my cave, life's simpler with my club and carburetor.....

Rev those are nice #'s for an 88"er.. do you think the tq. would come up if you richened it up a tad?

K.

 

I doubt it as I'm already coming off my torque curve as the Main Jet starts taking over. I was a tad lean on the top end so it really does need to go up one size on the main.

I could lower the needle clip one groove to richen it up a tad in the mid range and may do a little better but honestly, I'm enjoying the 40 mpg and the torque is awesome for an 88" now.

 

If it wasn't for the big mountains round here, I'd prefer the carb to EFI. Yes, a manual choke.Better mileage? Doubtful, but simplicity is why we like air cooled motors... yes, an EFI is simple as long as it works. but I'm at 7 plus years now and starting to replace all those "simple" parts one by one as they fail...

 

Just wondering about the mountain statement? I've been all over Colorado, Trail ridge road, etc. etc. many altitude extremes, 1100 ft to over 12000 in the same day, and I have not had any problem with my carburetor???
I know you are not bashing carbs, but the guys that do use this as one of their reasons to say carbs suck.... what is the problem with carbs and mountains?

You are 100% right on about having to replace fi parts, that's why I traded in my '00 RKC for my '06 RK

K.

 

Currently, I live in South Tx at sea level.I've have riddentoDurango andSilvertonwithout touching a thing.I had no problems at all in the Rockies however you could sure feel the Umph was disappearing in the high altitudes. Everyone noticed it even with EFI. EFI doesn't give you anymore power in higher elevations. It just backs the fuel off until the AFR is correct.

Carb will do the same thing to a point.Since the majority of us run off the low speed circuit the majority of the time (idle circuit and pilot jet) wecan tweak theidle mixturewith a thumb screw and get it close pretty quick. Works fine long as we aren't out trying to do wide open quarter mile speed trails. And if you are, spent 15 minutes and drop in a new main jet.

Where EFI Shines is if you live in Durango and work in Silverton, the EFI will compensate for the huge change in altitudes day in and day out.