I think there is a misconception re the purpose of ABS - It is NOT intended to stop you faster; it's purpose is to allow you to continue to steer while under max braking by preventing wheel lockup and skids. This allows you to avoid accident situations by steering around them. Under optimal braking conditions (clear, dry pavement) and all else being equal, non-ABS equipped vehicles can stop faster than those with ABS.

Oh yeah, my new RG will have ABS.

 

Had ABS on a fjr1300, great.

Ordered ABS for my 08 SG, $800 and there when needed.

 

Actually, if we're nitpicking, an ABS breaking system would be an anti-lock braking system that breaks things.

 

Has anyone heard if MOCO will make a retrofit available for pre 08's ? I'd love to add this to my 07.

 

The Police bike ABS fits the 07 Ultra, all it takes is lots
of money and space to install it!

 

Now I admit I don't know how Harley ABS works. But in most other cases like cars and airplanes, all things being equal, the stopping distance should be the same unless they start a skid, then the ABS will stop faster in shorter space because it is not loosing time or distance of the skid.

Beary

 

beary, you get max stopping ability on dry, good traction surfaces when you lock the wheels. You can also flat spot your tires if it's a long skid and you can lose directional control BUT if you can keep it straight you'll stop in a shorter distance than if you have ABS preventing lockup. The problem is keeping it straight. ABS helps prevent skids and helps you maintain control and steering ability while getting the best POSSIBLE stopping ability under adverse (slippery) conditions. Under these low traction conditions non-ABS vehicles lose all steering control.

Believe me, I've driven for 40 years on icy, prairie roads both with and without ABS so I know the difference in how they perform..

 

Have any of you heard of the TCB Valve? Its a hydraulic brake control valve that helps prevent wheel lock up - ABS only works after your tire locks up - this valve prevents it from happening in the first place. It a bolt on part that replces your banjo bolt on your caliper or master cylinder doesnt matter which. I pute one of both my front and back and really like them. I had to do a quick stop about a month after i put themon - a deer ran out in front of me when I was doing 65mph - I was able to stop in what I think was a fairly short distance without locking up either tire - without them I don't think it would've worked out so well for me especially since I had hardly any tread left on my rear tire. I also like the way my brake levers feel with them Somebody at ABATE told me about them but I got them from the companys website the url is www.lifesavertcb.com or www.tcblifesaver.com not sure which. They only cost me $100 each - well worth it if u ask me - lot cheaper than ABS -

 

I don't care how long you've been driving, you're wrong. Maximum braking take place just PRIOR to a skid. When you lock the wheels, that melting rubber under the contact patch turns to liquid and you hydroplane on that liquid, increasing your stopping distance.

Anti-skid (or anti-lock) applies the brakes until rotation of the wheel slows to a given speed, not a skid. If you can hold the brake pressure exactly right and not skid, you might stop shorter than with anti-skid, which momentarily releases the brake until it detects wheel spin again then reapplies. Most of us aren't that good in an emergency.

 

Not true, see above post.