AND........ I'm on the east coast with 4,500 miles to go to get home too!

Backstory- 2014 SGS with 160,000 miles on it. At least 35-40 oil changes on the oil pan plug hole total.

Got back home after 61 days /15,000 mile trip a few weeks ago, only home for 10 days, did a 3 hole change and tires, and then back out for another 36 days and 7,800 miles.

When I did the last oil change at home in CA, the plug was DEFINITELY feeling like it as about to let loose. No leaks or issues on the way out here to DE at Mom's house (again). Went to do a quick drain in fill in her little garage, and the plug hole, not the plug, feels like it's most likely stripped but I got it back in and snug. It appeared to be seeping a bit so I wiped it off real good again and if it shows signs of any seepage again, I need to pull the plug again, drain the pan totally, clean the boogered threads with Brakleen real good, and seal that plug into the pan with JB Weld possibly? Or maybe blue hydraulic "Leak Lock"? Or something else? What would you guys use? I don't care if I can't really get the plug out, but it would be nice if I want to attempt a repair on the pan. I just want to get it home to my shop so I can drop the pan and either repair it .... or probably just swap it out with a new one. What is the name of that high temp RTV that was use on the Stator wire where it comes out of the engine case and goes to the regulator? It worked perfectly externally on my 03 RKC!

Also, have any of you successfully repaired an oil pan plug hole before? If you have, what kit did you use?

TIA fellers!!

MJ


EDIT- Just found this online and looks like it could possibly work, at least temperature wise.......

https://www.autozone.com/sealants-gl...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I would definitely try the permatex. It looks like the sort of paste dealers often use on the drain plugs and in fact even the factory. It really coats the threads, is quite hard to clean them up.

 

If the drain plug is still feeling like it's trying to tighten up, just not like you would like it to be. Then a sealant would likely be the way to go.

If it's just spinning or you don't like how it's snugging up, might look for an automotive oversize drain plug (they are designed to "fix" a stripped hole) or maybe a pipe thread fitting. Both of these would require a thread repair to use the original size plug. But then again, you just want to make sure it gets you home, and then do a real repair.

Hope this helps, good luck!
Tom

 

I would use the Permatex, I used it on my wife's old Nissan Rogue when the dealer stripped the drain hole on it, I used it for about 4 yrs until the car was totaled, no issues. I would use it again if I have a need.

 

There is unused "meat" in your pan, tap and use a 12/-20 X 7/8ths bolt.
The longer bolt will be flush with the opening shown below

 

The drain hole on my 09 ultra oil pan stripped out at 110,000 miles. Local dealer installed a Heli-coil insert. It's at 135,000 miles now, and not leaking.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/helicoil-inserts/

 

And this is why I use a torque wrench on my drain plugs.

 

I have used both of these methods. I bought the oversized, self tapping drain plug at an AutoZone.

 

A Time-Sert or Helicoil would be a fairly permanent solution and any indy or most automotive places (if you aren't around an independant or Harley shop) could do it in an hour or less. Permatex makes a few alternatives and there is always JB Weld if you are really stuck. This problem isn't nearly as serious as the tire marker issue, you'll be fine.

 

Given the distance you are from home I would over-size plug it and not rely on a sealant.