So I've decided to start a separate thread instead of polluting "What did you do..."
Still chasing that rear wobble, banging my head on the wall.
2022 Road Glide with 31k
Long story: about a month ago I've had a flat. It was a pretty loud pop, tire started to lose pressure fast and I've rode about half a mile to pull to the shoulder, by the time I've stopped pressure was about 20 psi.
Towed to the dealer, took about a week, because I wanted Cruisetec to match brand new front one.
On my way home noticed terrible wobble at about 70+ mphl I've picked it up before closing time so can't go back.
In a couple days took it back, dealer reglued the wheel weights so they'd be across the rim instead of on one side. Also claimed it was because too tight head bearing, OK, adjust head bearing.
Picked it up - same story wobble at 65+.
Tried to put Ride-On goo it clogged my valve lol. Took the tire off myself, cleaned all the goo and valved and took the wheel to local indy to rebalance.
Try run - same wobble, well maybe it shifted towards 75 but still there. On closer inspection noticed that right side cam has too mych play because somehow axle was pretty gnarled at the edges of the flat "key".
Well, new axle came today, put it on, all excited hit the road and at 75 the wobble is still there. Measured distance from center of the axle to the center of the swing arm bolt - same on both sides.
Now I'm really running out of options.
Now short version

• wobble at about same speed more or less 70+
• tire re-balanced three times
• new axle and right side cam
• bearings "seem to be" tight

What's next a new tire ($300 option) a new wheel ($1000 option) ? I do have new bearings but kind of doubt they're going to do anything at this point.
Is there any other way or keep throwing money at it ?
Thanks for any suggestion.

 

Have you checked wheel runout?

Have you run the bike on a jack and watched the rear tire?

If not, I'd start there.

 

Huh.. Well that's weird. Check the tires' air pressure and see if there's evidence of a leak in the fork seals. Find an exploded diagram of the rear wheel and spacer set-up, maybe a spacer is on the wrong side. Look at the bead of the tire and see if its equal all around (that would show up in the run-out check 702 recommended anyhow.) Do the string test for the rear wheel alignment. Check the belt tension and how it runs on the pulley. Keep us posted, I'm curious how this one turns out.
Good luck!

 

You heard a loud pop. Tire still had air in it. Maybe a weld cracked somewhere.. Weird stuff.

 

No I didn't check runout yet, not sure how accurate it would be but worth a try, I guess as for running on the jack - it starts to wobble at 70+, pretty consistently below that it's pretty good.

 

Only one spacer on ABS wheel, on pulley side and accounted for Not sure what string test is I did measure from mid axle to the middle of the cap covering swing arm bolt - same distance. Yeah belt was tight (too tight probably) after today's axle install, I've just decided to do a test run (about 15 miles) and then readjust the belt.

 

Tire is holding pressure.

 

To do a string test I would get two helpers, one to hold the bike upright and steady, the other to hold one end of a string at the front end, down by the floor.
The idea is to stretch a string that just touches the sidewall of the tire at the rear of the back wheel then have the helper at the front move the front end of the string slowly toward the front wheel (held straight by the other helper) until you tell him it just touches the front edge of the rear tire, then make a mark on a piece of tape stuck to the floor.
If the front and rear tires are the same size it might touch the front tire at the same time but most fronts are narrower than the rears so you just mark it carefully.
Then do the other side. The marks should show the string is parallel to the front tire if the rear wheel is aligned perfectly. It all depends on the helpers, so get someone dependable involved. If the rear wheel is off, it will be obvious. I used to do this in the old days and mark the swing arm, both sides with reference marks to use later when adjusting chain or belt tensions. It's harder to describe than it is to do.

 

Bent pully? if belt pulls too tight it could perhapse flex the swing arm/rear fork.

 

I would find a really good friend or perhaps a shop or indy dealer that has a rim and tire that already runs good and swap it out on your bike. if your bike still wobbles, you've narrowed it down significantly. That would considerably limit your money expenditure....Good luck
I have a tire and rim off a 13 Street glide, you would have to swap out the bearings for ABS ones, and pay for shipping, but its yours if you want it. It runs true, just to make sure it isn't your rim or tire.