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03 electra glide new stator and regulator please help

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  #11  
Old 03-04-2024 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tdrglide
Holding in tripmeter won't work with 03. That all started 04.
Originally Posted by Rounders
Works on my 2001. But not all codes can be pulled from dash.

Rounders, as you noted, you will not get the engine management system codes on your '01 from the odometer. There are only two ways to get them on an early Twin Cam. You need to use the HD Scanalyzer tool, or the "check engine light flashing" technique that tdrglide is talking about... It's officially called "Check Engine Lamp Diagnostics", and it involves jumping two wires in the data port to put the bike into diagnostics mode for engine management codes...

From my 2001 Electrical diagnostic manual:

 

Last edited by hattitude; 03-04-2024 at 10:01 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-05-2024 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Billymo
I appreciate all the responses. Going to try and answer them all. After market parts I did the work myself. It just happened today was able to ride it home. I will check the voltage reg and stator tomorrow evening after work. Will pull the crankcase cover this weekend and recheck the torque on all nuts. Battery is new from July 23 have it on the trickle charger. Was getting over 14v on gauge before incident, after I came home cranked it up and was only reading 10v. Will check codes and Google. Again thanks for all the suggestions and help, much appreciated.
I think the answer is: Aftermarket parts
 
  #13  
Old 03-05-2024 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Germansheperd
I think the answer is: Aftermarket parts

Yep and would check to see if stator is putting out Ac current to start with, and voltage regulator is putting out DC next.
Also, if battery was on the way out, then both of them working working over time, and could have been why either went so quickly, over just less than ideal low budget burn up quick units in the first place.
 
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2024 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by hattitude
R

From my 2001 Electrical diagnostic manual:
I've read it but never done it. the 01 manual is PIA, with those binders, it falls apart.

I would try reading whatecedes it does give. I have never read enough, what is the diffrence between the codes it gives through dash and what you have to use the paper clip for and read the dashes?
 

Last edited by Rounders; 03-05-2024 at 07:05 AM.
  #15  
Old 03-05-2024 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
I've read it but never done it. the 01 manual is PIA, with those binders, it falls apart.

I would try reading whatecedes it does give. I have never read enough, what is the diffrence between the codes it gives through dash and what you have to use the paper clip for and read the dashes?
There are "Speedometer Trouble Codes" that you read by holding in the odometer trip set. They cover the functions of the speedometer. They range from "d01" thru "d10". I don't have a pic of that trouble code chart, but two examples would be: "d01- Speed sensor power output low" or "d09- Speedometer output shorted- high"

The "Check Engine Light Diagnostics" are for the engine management. They require using the jumper wire in the diagnostic port, and counting flashes. Here is a chart for engine management codes:

 
  #16  
Old 03-05-2024 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Germansheperd
I think the answer is: Aftermarket parts

I would agree, unless they are from Cycle Electric. I prefer their electrical system charging parts over OEM, it's high quality stuff.....
 
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2024 | 02:52 PM
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Recently replaced a voltage regulator on a friend's 02 touring. Local dealer would not offer anything other than Cycle Electric. Said OEM was obsolete

To bad Cycle Electric does not do retail sales, but I understand.

Cycle Electric has a 3ph charging system that is a good upgrade from factory 1ph on a 03 Ultra. I swapped mine out to 3ph years ago when stator fried on my 03 RG.
Even Harley switched to 3ph years ago for OEM.
 
  #18  
Old 03-05-2024 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Billymo
heard a high pitched whine near the stator when revved above 3500 rpms. .
I'd do the ohms and ac output test at the stator, then go in and see if the rotor splines stripped.
If the comp nut is bottoming, or you didn't get the comp nut tight enough, 500 miles would be about right time to eat the rotor splines.
 
  #19  
Old 03-05-2024 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Schex
I'd do the ohms and ac output test at the stator, then go in and see if the rotor splines stripped.
If the comp nut is bottoming, or you didn't get the comp nut tight enough, 500 miles would be about right time to eat the rotor splines.
Agreed
 
  #20  
Old 03-19-2024 | 05:36 AM
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Thanks for all the help. As I started diagnosing, I found the waterproof plug between the reg and stator wasn't so waterproof. It had shorted from what I could tell, and the gasket was folded up inside. I ohmed out both, and both were good. I cut back the wires, wired direct and fired it up. It ran great no issues voltage meter was good. I've ordered a plug will be back to normal soon.
 
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