I live in a hot area , so AGM don't last that long lol

 

I can't speak to all the techno farble garble mumbo jumbo..but my experience with the HD Lithium Life battery I purchased when they came out is as follows..put it in my M8 Road King for about a year then transferred it to my new 2020 RGS which was going strong for another 4 1/2 years afterwards until I recently traded it for my new bike...I always plugged it (and all my past AGM batteries) into a tender after a day's ride..never had any trouble with it, cranked easily and I ride 12 months a year from the 30s up to triple digit temps.

I loved the weight savings factor and wanted to get a new one for my 2024 but don't see them listed and I would have given my wife my new 2024 AGM for her 2020 OEM that's 4 1/2 years old now. The fact that my 2024 RG is 16 lbs lighter and reduce that by another 18 or so lbs is always a good thing imo. It's said to expect 7-8 years out of the Lithium Life batteries and I have no reason to doubt mine would have lasted that long. It cost 33 % more than the HD AGM so about a wash considering service life wise. If they come out soon for my 24 I'll get one and give my OE AGM to wife

 

thats some good battery life right there!!

 

Since the battery sits right behind the engine that runs at 300* (ish) or so, I wonder how hot it gets inside the battery tray? It must be hotter than ambient temp in a Las Vegas garage in August. Or, perhaps I'm not looking at the temp ratings properly. Maybe these ratings mean ambient air temps while operating the vehicle, not while parked? One thing is certain, I'm over-thinking it. But I'm curious about these things.

 

maybe, maybe not but since you live and operate these in what's considered an extreme temperature environment, it's prudent and wise to proceed with caution. I'm sure you have a good sampling of experienced subject matter experts in your area to consult with

 

When comparing, double the Ah of lithium to compare versus any kind of acid battery. Lead acid (including AGM) batteries can only use about half of their capacity if you want them to have any life. Lithium can use at least 80% regularly and can be discharged to zero or nearly zero and still charge. Think of it like your cell phone instead of a car battery. 7.6 still sounds low to me when the factory battery is 30 Ah, but not as low as it seems.

 

I wouldn't worry too much on the Ah capacity, unless you're planning on parking your bike somewhere and cranking those tunes loud for a party or something. Your stator should handle anything when the bike is running and charge the battery in no time at 7.6 Amps. There should be a PbEq amp number somewhere for the battery (lead acid battery equivalent). Unlike the wet batteries, these lithium ones drain a bit slower.

Main thing to look for is the CCA for your bike. The higher the better for the FLH bikes. The other thing is where the battery is gonna be on the bike. I think we're safe from high temps as there is a some space and a metal plate between the rear cylinder and the battery acting as a thermal barrier. Most of these batteries also have some sort of thermal sensor to detect real high temps to protect those family jewels while riding.

 

It's completely irrelevant anyway. We're talking LFP batteries, not LCO (like found in laptops, phones, etc) or NCA/NCM (used in EVs). Overcharging, undercharging, shorting, etc of an LFP just means you damage the battery and it becomes a harmless brick. The only way to make it catch fire, unlike LCOs (especially of the ICR variety sold for RC, those things should never be left to charge unattended), is to physically rupture the sealed pouch. And that's not likely to happen since it's inside a hard enclosure, mounted in a sturdy bracket, at the center of the bike. If it's ruptured there are already bigger problems... NCM/NCA are also more stable than LCO, but nothing like LFP (or LTO). And a large pack at the bottom of an EV is far more easily punctured by road debris or in an accident.

 

It might work in a small motor but with a big motor and bigger starter, it will shut down mid compression, cause the coil to spark and kill the starter.. You'll end up stranded. Maybe bring a small charger with you and find a plug to reset..

Since you guy are talking baggers, IMO the best bet is a good AGM and cables.

 

I got a cheap *** Twin Power from JP for $259 almost 7 years ago. I use an Optimate 5 amp lfp multi step charger. Still spins the motor over in no time. My only worry is how/ when is it no longer serviceable? I looked to get another one but tp no longer offers them??