A new tire at $250.00 vs. ?? to patch and tube it. Look at the difference spent for a little assurance.

 

Exactly, and I'll pay for the shipping.

Bill

 

What the heck are you riding and how are you riding and where that you wear out a FRONT tire in 5-6k. Most people get 20k plus on the front, myself included!

 

For that money you can buy a jack and pull the tire yourself, simple if it's the front, then take it to a independent shop that will sell you the tire for less and mount if for less. I've found a great independent shop just up the street from were my favorite HD dealer is, and they don't mind letting me watch or answering questions while they do the job, oh yeah, and they're way less expensive.
As a couple shops have said, "if I sell you the tire and change if for you it's alot less expensive than if you just have me fix it, or just buy if from me".
We have several indie shops that are reasonable around here, and they sell quality products.

 

OMG - $250 for a single tire - that in it self is a rip off.
BUT - if the hole is less than a 16p nail, no worries - anyone can flaten the area inside the tire and add a new tube. (tube $10).

If the hole is more than a 16p nail - replace the tire. Way to much damage have been done the the tire.

For all of you that replace the tire with a pin *****, I am with another poster in asking you to send them to me.

Back in the day (70s-80s), we used to patch the tire, rub out the whole and ride on. Yes some idiots did not do it right and paid for it. But [explitive deleted] that just bettered the gene pool.

...gene

Oh yeah: sigh the waver. But make sure the job is done correctly. The stealer is only protecting his tocus.

 

Dealer here won't repair a hole, only put a new tire on. They won't accept liability at all.

 

To actually answer the 2 questions you asked.

The reason the dealer wants you to sign a waiver is because the nail caused damage to the integrity of the tire.

The second answer is an "alloy" whell is also considered a mag wheel or a cast wheel which means its one solid piece and is usually tubeless. A spoked wheel has spokes and the spokes are attached to the inside of the rim and tightened and trued and are not air tight. The Spoked wheels generally need tubes to keep the tire "inflated".


I hope these answered your questions.

 

Choochoo and others, There are number of factors: The country roads I ride have the texture of 50 grit emory, I tend to make use of of the great traction both accellerating and cornering. The front tends to push and scrub while the rear takes the torq and cornering force. If you've ever cranked a high speed corner on a ridgid you undoubtably encountered the "pogo" effect, no springs, nothing to counter the effects of ripples and bumps, the rear will slide a little, then grab, this will continue til you change the situation. Kinda like a mini flat track slide. Not optimum for tread wear on either end.

I could just slow down, take it easy and save a lot of wear. I gave up on that concept many years ago. My philosophy has appeared in some recent threads so I won't do any preaching here.(100+ thread)
Hope that has answered some of your questions

 

I've had a flat on the front and rear of bikes on a couple of occasions (not at the same time thankfully) Two things I do not mess around with tire and batteries when in question I replace. IMO flat tire and I replace it I'm not wiiling to take a chance to save a buck. there was a time when I patched and put a new tube never had a problem came down to lack of finance at the time. You do what you have to do!

 

Like I said.....it's not really about the money. I just feel like they were trying to sell me a new tire for no reason. Makes me wonder what else I will "NEED" if I ever have to go back to the dealer for service again.