2021 Wet Head Problem
#12
Just FYI, my 21 had the same problem. The dealer had no clue and I suggested an old school (potential) cause might be the radiator cap would not vent. Since they had no idea they agreed to try swapping out a cap off a used bike (they had no new ones in stock, which is BS) and that replacement cap is still on the bike two years later.
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Spook13 (05-08-2023)
#13
I wonder what they would say about me fixing it. I agree with Ghetto Blaster, it looks like an easy fix but I haven’t dealt with much warranty work. Don’t want to screw up the warranty if there is already a problem with the pump or something. No lights came on when I parked it yesterday so I wouldn’t think it damaged anything. I’ll give the dealer a call tomorrow and see what they have to say. Thanks for the help!
it is an easy fix.... but any warranty issue could possibly be affected in the future...
That is held on with an Oetiker clamp. I use them and prefer them over worm gear hose clamps. They use a special tool, need the correct size, and can be a pain to remove. If you replace it with a worm gear hose clamp, it will be an obvious change to the OEM configuration if future warranty work is needed in that area....
I think on a new bike with that low mileage, I would get the dealer involved with the solution....
Good luck with the fix....
#14
I agree that dealer can come and trailer bike to the shop. Don't give any reason for your warranty to be lost by tampering with the bike. Also I suggest before warranty expires get the extended added on. If any of the electronics goes it is a high dollar fix. Of course protects you on mechanical as well.
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Spook13 (05-08-2023)
#16
Had the same leak on my Limited after 6k miles, the filler cap hose clamp was so loose at both the cap and radiator you could move it easily. Hd dealer did not have a hose in stock so went to my local NAPA store and found a hose the perfect angle and bought a couple screw clamps, almost 30k miles later no leaks. Bike was still under warranty at the time but did not want the hassle and wait to take to dealer so fixed myself instead.
Yes you do have to remove the lower to get access to the hose at the radiator.
Yes you do have to remove the lower to get access to the hose at the radiator.
Last edited by MRFREEZE57; 05-08-2023 at 04:09 PM.
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Spook13 (05-08-2023)
#17
Called the dealer today but they are closed Sunday and Monday. I will let you know what I find out. Really appreciate all the advice and I wasn’t too worried about it before, but kind of thinking about an ESP now. I’m sure this is not going to be an expensive repair but it’s made me a little leery.
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nordhaven (05-09-2023)
#18
Got in touch with the dealer today. Said driving 50 miles shouldn’t hurt anything, told me he has had people run them couple hundred miles without hurting anything. He ordered the parts today but he said it would be at least a week for the parts to come in. The way he talked this is not an uncommon problem. Would be nice if they stocked the parts. I think I am still going to try to get it pushed back together and get some distilled water in it before I take it to Dubuque.
#20
I agree on swapping out the clamp. However, I discovered that a lot of Auto Zones (car parts store) and others, have an open gallon of pre-mixed antifreeze for customers who run a bit low.
I'd guess that a lot of the quickie oil change places do too. I mean, why carry coolant when supplies are close by in civilized areas.
It happened to me on a road trip. The bike threw the engine overheat light. They gave me the whole gallon, (well it had 90% of it still), and my '16 Ultra Limited liquid cooled heads only took a few ounces. But the clerk said to take it all just in case. Back on the road I went. My guess is that my low level of coolant was just age related evaporation. I had never checked the level since I had the dreaded water pump failure several years prior.
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Spook13 (05-14-2023)