My '04 Road King, last of the V twin interceptors

 

Here’s my cop king. Was a Philly parade bike before my father bought it and wrecked it.

 

2020 FLHTP - original owner and ordered it from the factory. Extensively modified since purchase.

 

Thank you for that. I connected the orange/violet wire to hot and the running lights came on with the Pursuit switch to the left. I still don't have the low beam, but I can figure that out.

 

2004 FLHPI. Previous owned by New Orleans PD, purchased with 10,000 miles on it. One of the best bikes I have ever owned

 

Fix: Trace your hand button horn wire back to the first coupling point for the wire bundles. There, check to see if the (in my 2008's case yellow and black wire) horn wire enters and continues on another matching wire.

If it is still wired for a siren, then your wire will change colors and the actual matching wire will be empty (mine went to a pink line with the matching wire having a plastic peg placeholder).

If the siren wire is not the issue, the wires will match at both sides.

To resolve this horn not working issue, simply disconnect the handle grip side wire and attach it to the port with the matching wire on the other side.




The top pic shows a yellow and black wire coming from the bottom on my handle bar side entering the coupling and from top goes to a yellow and pink wire, incorrectly, for a siren.
The bottom pic shows the white plastic placeholder peg where my handlebar side yellow and black wire needs to me moved. You can also see the matching wire across from the peg.

Apparently this is a very common and super frustrating lazy decommissioning issue.

Best of luck and I hope this saves someone money and time. I scoured my ride looking for broken wires and replaced horns and I hope to save anyone the same purgatory.

 

Good tip^^^

My horn was simply not connected. I'm getting ready to hook it up now.

 

I looked at mine and like yours, it has yellow/blk on the handlebar side of the harness, and yellow/pink on the opposite side. On my bike the black wires are in the right spots of each harness - across from each other.

But here's the rub - I figured if I connected my meter to the yellow/pink wire (which goes back to the main open wiring trough under the tank) I would get 12V when I push the red horn button. Nope. In fact, it makes a circuit to ground. So I hook up my meter to read continuity to ground, when I push the button it tones the meter. So I could make this work by connecting one side of the horn to continuous 12V+, and the other side to the yellow/pink. But the diagram shows the black as ground, and I assume, the yellow/blk (and therefore ylw/pink as hot.

Not sure where I'm going wrong here. <EDIT - I found what I did wrong>

As much as I would like to delete and just post my success, I'll leave my mistake here for others to learn from. It's pretty simple - I forgot to turn on the ignition. In the absence of voltage, a path to ground remains. Once I turned the ignition on, I get 12V to the yelw/pink when the horn button is pushed. So it will be quite easy to get the horn going now - yellow pink to one side, and ground (blk) to the other.

Now I just have to figure out the low beam. It's not getting voltage no matter what I do (short of simply bringing an ignition hot to it).

 

Here's my 2000 flhtpi...I'm the 3rd owner, she had 33000 miles when I got her in 2010, now 78000 trouble free miles. It was never "in service" the guy i bought it from did a 1550 BB kit with 211 cams, tru duals at about 1500 miles...I've done the cam chain tensioners a couple of times and tbh its been a very reliable ride!