Oil pressure light on and bike now knocking
#41
Max is corrrect..
The OEM INA brand bearings are caged bearings. I don't know about the SE bearings, but the Koyo (formerly Torrington) bearings that most recommend for replacement of OEM are captive needle bearings..
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armacc (08-19-2022)
#42
My thought is the crank was scissored and that right side crank bearing was running out. It finally got far enough out and cracked the pump rotor. If the OP would put an indicator on the shaft, my guess is it out more than the .012 now. BUT JUST GUESSING. I saw this happen to a girl's Softtail. Her boyfriend who was a Sportsbike rider downshifted too low on her bike and popped the clutch out at WOT. He wasn't going fast either. They had set up a training area in a big open parking lot for her to prepare to take her VA motorcycle attachment. He wanted to show her how fast he could do it.
Interesting and it could just be the picture but his oil pump has some big time wear on it. The soft actually wears the hard if there is a present abrasive. Shouldn't be ...
Interesting and it could just be the picture but his oil pump has some big time wear on it. The soft actually wears the hard if there is a present abrasive. Shouldn't be ...
A good indication that runout is the source is to look at the mating surface for the cam plate and case at the lower left.. When the crank runs out, the 2 part rub there and the machine marks are gone.
Assuming that is was the inner cam bearing that locked up. it would probably be less than a minute for the rest of the damage to occur..
#43
We're all guessing.. It is possible to twist the crank from the drive side for sure.. What amazes me, is that bearing trash made it through the oil pump to kill the feed side. If the feed gerotor looked that way and the scavenge side clear, I'd agree on runout being a possibility. The blown inner cam bearing looks like the culprit. It explains the black crap found in the cam case.
A good indication that runout is the source is to look at the mating surface for the cam plate and case at the lower left.. When the crank runs out, the 2 part rub there and the machine marks are gone.
Assuming that is was the inner cam bearing that locked up. it would probably be less than a minute for the rest of the damage to occur..
A good indication that runout is the source is to look at the mating surface for the cam plate and case at the lower left.. When the crank runs out, the 2 part rub there and the machine marks are gone.
Assuming that is was the inner cam bearing that locked up. it would probably be less than a minute for the rest of the damage to occur..
#45
I just upgraded from a nicely worked 06 Electraglide to a 2017 Road King......
That M8 motor will ASTOUND you. I PROMISE the first time you ride one you will be giggling like a child. Its like going from a smog controlled 350 to a cammed 454. If you are considering a new bike and its in your budget, do it.
That M8 motor will ASTOUND you. I PROMISE the first time you ride one you will be giggling like a child. Its like going from a smog controlled 350 to a cammed 454. If you are considering a new bike and its in your budget, do it.
#46
I just upgraded from a nicely worked 06 Electraglide to a 2017 Road King......
That M8 motor will ASTOUND you. I PROMISE the first time you ride one you will be giggling like a child. Its like going from a smog controlled 350 to a cammed 454. If you are considering a new bike and its in your budget, do it.
That M8 motor will ASTOUND you. I PROMISE the first time you ride one you will be giggling like a child. Its like going from a smog controlled 350 to a cammed 454. If you are considering a new bike and its in your budget, do it.
#47
Interesting I’ll have to check them out. I wouldn’t say in the budget per say but for only roughly 15g more get a brand new bike with full warranty and the new bigger motor etc it’s a hard one. Plus I could finance new one if not the 10-15g Canadian for new motor etc will be straight out of pocket
#48
want my advice?
Get a S&S engine, big displacement lots of ooomph and drop it in that frame.
Or if you want, and can afford it, a HD crate engine.
By the time you get into the cases, crank, and every other part of the bike that has to be checked and replaced you are past the point of an economical repair.
YMMV IANAL
Get a S&S engine, big displacement lots of ooomph and drop it in that frame.
Or if you want, and can afford it, a HD crate engine.
By the time you get into the cases, crank, and every other part of the bike that has to be checked and replaced you are past the point of an economical repair.
YMMV IANAL
#49
want my advice?
Get a S&S engine, big displacement lots of ooomph and drop it in that frame.
Or if you want, and can afford it, a HD crate engine.
By the time you get into the cases, crank, and every other part of the bike that has to be checked and replaced you are past the point of an economical repair.
YMMV IANAL
Get a S&S engine, big displacement lots of ooomph and drop it in that frame.
Or if you want, and can afford it, a HD crate engine.
By the time you get into the cases, crank, and every other part of the bike that has to be checked and replaced you are past the point of an economical repair.
YMMV IANAL
#50
I have a plan for the old motor. This bike was originally my ole mans bike. He drove it for 3 years before passing away and then it was given to me.The bike was his pride and joy.So the bike itself will never be sold or parted with. I will dismantle to inspect and to make sure it not worth rebuilding. If that’s the case I’ll remove some parts from motor to make it lighter and will sprinkle some of my dads ashes in it and will mount it to my garage wall
The following 5 users liked this post by 06customroadking:
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