I don't lug it never have since it was new in 13. I only slam it in 6th gear when I'm above 70 mph. Normally I ride in 4th up to 55-60 mph. Lugging kills any engine tranny etc

 

I've tried that and everyone is looking at me like wtf is that. It will do it a few times and sometimes i switch the main power off and back on and it will spin over without the dreaded clunk or kickback. When it does it it sounds the same as a dead battery but it's definitely not that I just replaced it 2 months or less ago and went to a larger battery with more cranking amps since cca means diddly **** unless it's below 32°f.

 

Could I just eliminate that pos and be done with it? Or is it that noisy without it installed? Neighbors 2016 fatboy s is getting a black horse compensator installed. I guess that's the correct name maybe dark horse. His has 62k and is worn enough causing a rattling sound and making it pop out of gear sometimes. I still eat that 110 up with the 103 though partially because I know how to ride lol.

 

Had the same problem with my wife’s 13 sg. Every once in a while it would kick back when starting. A few months after that started I noticed her voltage wasn’t staying at a consistent level. Talked to my indy and I test the voltage regulator, it was bad. He told me that the starter wasn’t getting the proper amount of power cause the regulator was on it’s way out.

Not saying this is your problem but it was the problem on my wife’s bike. Replaced the regulator 2 years ago and no problem since.

 

Could very well be the issue as well since anyone who knows about hd knows they love using cheap Chinese electrical parts and other things. Hence why i won't own a newer than 2016. If I could it would have a 117 s&s evo under the Tank.

 

I went with a new spring pack behind my stock compensator. The ramps looked fine to me and after replacing the spring pack all was good. Elimination would be a good option, but didnt wanna transfer all that harmonic through the primary to the crank on a old 60k mile motor. If I ever do the bottom end, Ill do the eliminator sprocket too.

 

I am no battery expert so I will ask this question. CCA is measured at 32 degrees F for an industry standard, If a battery makes more CCA at 32, why won't it also make more amps at higher temperatures , when compared to a lower CCA battery since the rate of the chemical process changes with temperature? Intuitively, a 500 CCA battery now at 80 degrees
F should deliver more cranking amps than a 400 CCA battery now also at 80 degrees.

I put the latest Harley comp on my bike and by 1700 miles it became noisy. I shimmed the spring pack and it has been quiet and smooth ever since. I suspect the shim is far less expensive than a new spring pack. All but the smallest spring seem quite robust. As only a shade tree mechanic, I would replace the smallest spring with a shim and be done with comp problems. My THEORY on the comp causing hard starts is that a weak comp absorbs the initial starter impulse without moving the crank shaft very much so the engine has very little inertia against the first compression stroke while with a strong comp, the engine rotation begins immediately and builds inertia before compression causes resistance. Always believed that ACRs minimized or eliminated this problem but if one or both fail, then you are again fighting against full compression.

 

If memory serves, I believe cold cranking amps are rated at 0 degrees, or at least they used to be... Who knows these days. Regardless, you are correct and a battery with higher CCA will provide more amps at higher temps as well.

 

There is actually a method to measure the shim pack preload to determine if a shim would help...

 

do you have a jump pack. if so, hook it up on the first cold start to see if it makes a difference. also hook it up on the first hot start.
just trying to rule out the "new" battery.
good luck with her!