03 Ultra classic not starting after jump
#1
03 Ultra classic not starting after jump
Hello everybody.
I managed to stay out of trouble for two years with this bike but here we are, this forum has always provided me with the knowledge to solve little hiccups while I completely took my bike apart for powder coating and spray paint. I finally screwed up enough to post a question.
I've got a 03 ultra classic with 20k miles and it will not start. Bike was running fine before I began my latest upgrades to the audio system.
So when the ignition is turned on everything powers up as it should, fuel pump primes, but when you hit the start button I only get this soft clickfrom the starter relay.
I've cleaned and checked grounds cables, bought a new battery (12.8v) and relay (not OEM but same) but it still clicks, battery stays at 12.8v even when I push the start button it just clicks every time. Tested all the fuses on both sides with a multimeter and they're all good.
So here's what happened, I installed an amp(auna C300.4 - 4 x 200W Music / 100W RMS ) and lower fairing speaker's, amp power cable to the + on battery and ground to a grounds bolt under the radio because the kit I received only gave me a certain length of grounds cable(I later realize that this particular grounds bolt with cable under the radio runs directly to the starter relay), everything was working audio wise so I put the bike back together, now I still had my old battery at this stage and since I tested out the speaker's for about 2mins here and there with the bike off I assumed the power would be low so I charged it with a 1A charger over the weekend, went to start it Monday turned the ignition on pressed the start button and as I hit run i could hear the starter was struggling and a static noise was coming from the speakers, after a second attempt at starting her up it didn't even crank over, so I went to get my battery pack jump starter I keep in the car and attempted to jump the bike , positive to positive and negative to the frame, the jump starter beeped to tell me it's ready so I tried a third time, this time still nothing but I briefly saw a spark from the bottom area of the battery hit the frame it didn't come out the battery itself but the sensitive grounds area for the electrical stuff bolted to the frame on the left side of the bike
And after that I would only get a click as I try to start, also the radio display dims as I press run this never happened before.
i removed the new amp cables and tried again but still nothing, checked fuses replaced the battery and relay, still just clicking,
I'd appreciate any info on what I should check next or if you guys have had similar issues.
Thanks very much! Cheer's
I managed to stay out of trouble for two years with this bike but here we are, this forum has always provided me with the knowledge to solve little hiccups while I completely took my bike apart for powder coating and spray paint. I finally screwed up enough to post a question.
I've got a 03 ultra classic with 20k miles and it will not start. Bike was running fine before I began my latest upgrades to the audio system.
So when the ignition is turned on everything powers up as it should, fuel pump primes, but when you hit the start button I only get this soft clickfrom the starter relay.
I've cleaned and checked grounds cables, bought a new battery (12.8v) and relay (not OEM but same) but it still clicks, battery stays at 12.8v even when I push the start button it just clicks every time. Tested all the fuses on both sides with a multimeter and they're all good.
So here's what happened, I installed an amp(auna C300.4 - 4 x 200W Music / 100W RMS ) and lower fairing speaker's, amp power cable to the + on battery and ground to a grounds bolt under the radio because the kit I received only gave me a certain length of grounds cable(I later realize that this particular grounds bolt with cable under the radio runs directly to the starter relay), everything was working audio wise so I put the bike back together, now I still had my old battery at this stage and since I tested out the speaker's for about 2mins here and there with the bike off I assumed the power would be low so I charged it with a 1A charger over the weekend, went to start it Monday turned the ignition on pressed the start button and as I hit run i could hear the starter was struggling and a static noise was coming from the speakers, after a second attempt at starting her up it didn't even crank over, so I went to get my battery pack jump starter I keep in the car and attempted to jump the bike , positive to positive and negative to the frame, the jump starter beeped to tell me it's ready so I tried a third time, this time still nothing but I briefly saw a spark from the bottom area of the battery hit the frame it didn't come out the battery itself but the sensitive grounds area for the electrical stuff bolted to the frame on the left side of the bike
And after that I would only get a click as I try to start, also the radio display dims as I press run this never happened before.
i removed the new amp cables and tried again but still nothing, checked fuses replaced the battery and relay, still just clicking,
I'd appreciate any info on what I should check next or if you guys have had similar issues.
Thanks very much! Cheer's
Last edited by Thats what sea said; 03-07-2022 at 12:54 PM.
#2
The following users liked this post:
Thats what sea said (03-07-2022)
#3
Do the simple cheap stuff first.
First, remove the negative cable from the negative battery post, then remove the negative cable (always remove negative first, and reconnect the negative last).
Remove positive cable.
Clean both terminals on each battery cable.
Clean the battery posts.
Disassemble and clean the ground connections at the frame.
Clean the battery cable connection points at the starter solenoid.
First, remove the negative cable from the negative battery post, then remove the negative cable (always remove negative first, and reconnect the negative last).
Remove positive cable.
Clean both terminals on each battery cable.
Clean the battery posts.
Disassemble and clean the ground connections at the frame.
Clean the battery cable connection points at the starter solenoid.
The following users liked this post:
Thats what sea said (03-07-2022)
#4
Do the simple cheap stuff first.
First, remove the negative cable from the negative battery post, then remove the negative cable (always remove negative first, and reconnect the negative last).
Remove positive cable.
Clean both terminals on each battery cable.
Clean the battery posts.
Disassemble and clean the ground connections at the frame.
Clean the battery cable connection points at the starter solenoid.
First, remove the negative cable from the negative battery post, then remove the negative cable (always remove negative first, and reconnect the negative last).
Remove positive cable.
Clean both terminals on each battery cable.
Clean the battery posts.
Disassemble and clean the ground connections at the frame.
Clean the battery cable connection points at the starter solenoid.
Haven't done that yet but will do, it's just because the bike was running fine last Monday with no issues up until I tried to start it yesterday.
after the amp installation, I assumed I fried something or wired it wrong
Thanks for the tips
#6
What battery is installed?
Reason:
Non-factory batteries many times come with spacers since the posts do not sit flush with battery case.
Not using the spacers makes the battery cables sit at an angle.
Basically the cable end rests on battery case at an angle as you tighten bolts.
The connection looks tight & feels tight but is not flush with terminal.
Alternatively, check the other end of negative battery cable....not the battery end.
Reason:
Non-factory batteries many times come with spacers since the posts do not sit flush with battery case.
Not using the spacers makes the battery cables sit at an angle.
Basically the cable end rests on battery case at an angle as you tighten bolts.
The connection looks tight & feels tight but is not flush with terminal.
Alternatively, check the other end of negative battery cable....not the battery end.
The following users liked this post:
Thats what sea said (03-07-2022)
#7
You said you connected the positive (power) lead from the amp to the battery and the ground from the amp to the starter relay. I'm thinking without a switch to turn off the power to the amp (pos,) the is always "on" drawing power. Have you thought about running the power to switchable power, i.e, ignition circuit from the power out of the ignition fuse or accy. switch? Then run your ground to a chassis ground
Trending Topics
#8
What battery is installed?
Reason:
Non-factory batteries many times come with spacers since the posts do not sit flush with battery case.
Not using the spacers makes the battery cables sit at an angle.
Basically the cable end rests on battery case at an angle as you tighten bolts.
The connection looks tight & feels tight but is not flush with terminal.
Alternatively, check the other end of negative battery cable....not the battery end.
Reason:
Non-factory batteries many times come with spacers since the posts do not sit flush with battery case.
Not using the spacers makes the battery cables sit at an angle.
Basically the cable end rests on battery case at an angle as you tighten bolts.
The connection looks tight & feels tight but is not flush with terminal.
Alternatively, check the other end of negative battery cable....not the battery end.
And yes it's sitting at an angle, the previous battery had the connections on the side which was very awkward to unbolt, this one is bolted on top and the wires are stretching a little. I'll bolt it to the side again and see if it works.
Thanks for mentioning it didn't thought of it that way
#9
You said you connected the positive (power) lead from the amp to the battery and the ground from the amp to the starter relay. I'm thinking without a switch to turn off the power to the amp (pos,) the is always "on" drawing power. Have you thought about running the power to switchable power, i.e, ignition circuit from the power out of the ignition fuse or accy. switch? Then run your ground to a chassis ground
#10
Raining all last week in Ireland, got around to working on the bike this week, cleaned the cable contacts around the battery also installed a new solenoid kit and push button cover, swapped out all the fuses for new ones and 4 relays on the bike, still no good, even when I push the solenoid cover button when the ignition switch engaged,
so I took the battery cables out and discovered a corroded end at the frame ground, took the set of battery cables out and brought it to a auto electrician he'll have a new set made tomorrow, will see if that works, really hoping it's nothing serious don't know what else to check?
Old and new
Old and new
I guess replacing this is a good thing even if it didn't solve my problem
Push button, guess it's extra insurance down the road
Buffed all the contacts clean
Battery Ground to frame wire
Hope this is it now
Getting these replaced
so I took the battery cables out and discovered a corroded end at the frame ground, took the set of battery cables out and brought it to a auto electrician he'll have a new set made tomorrow, will see if that works, really hoping it's nothing serious don't know what else to check?
Old and new
Old and new
I guess replacing this is a good thing even if it didn't solve my problem
Push button, guess it's extra insurance down the road
Buffed all the contacts clean
Battery Ground to frame wire
Hope this is it now
Getting these replaced
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (03-14-2022)