@Cosmic Razorback , have you contacted Hogworkz regarding the top of tour pak? Curious how they handle it.
Yes I have, and I am happy to report that they responded fast and seem very concerned.
The downside after waiting 10 weeks is we now have to ship it back. I received a shipping tag today from them. They will inspect it, repair or replace as needed. So far I cannot fault their customer service in terms of acting as if they care and being prompt. I do question their quality control and how someone that paints components for a living would think this is okay and allow it to go out. From 5 feet it looks great. Not until I pointed out all the defects did my wife even realize it. Now she is really bummed.
We have a bike event on Thursday and she has asked me to wait until Friday to ship it back. Hopefully the turnaround time will be quick and they’ll ship back a better finished product. I will keep everyone updated.
We received a nice surprise after waiting 8 weeks for it to arrive.
Hogworkz Chopped Tour Pack.
I wish I was thrilled about the paint but there are some slight issues. I plan to reach out to them to see if they’ll replace the top. Nothing bad, but just too many small issues tone happy with it.
I am still outraged about this! I glossed over and missed it so to me, this is new news. And I'm outraged! Nah lol. They're pretty good, you'll get fixed up. Send it back after Friday though.
May I ask which of the two length levers you went with? I'm looking at the same to lower the brake pedal, but don't want the pedal to come any further back. A little forward would be okay. It's too high to rest my heel on the board while comfortably feathering the brake on and off in stop-and-go traffic with the front of my foot. And when riding with my feet comfortably on the board my toes go under the pedal so I wouldn't mind if it's slightly further forward. I assume this can't be the "short" lever you're using? My thinking is if lowered it will also shift forward slightly, even if exactly the same length (pivot to pedal) as the OEM.
May I ask which of the two length levers you went with? I'm looking at the same to lower the brake pedal, but don't want the pedal to come any further back. A little forward would be okay. It's too high to rest my heel on the board while comfortably feathering the brake on and off in stop-and-go traffic with the front of my foot. And when riding with my feet comfortably on the board my toes go under the pedal so I wouldn't mind if it's slightly further forward. I assume this can't be the "short" lever you're using? My thinking is if lowered it will also shift forward slightly, even if exactly the same length (pivot to pedal) as the OEM.
I went with the LONG arm and have it set at the lowest of the three positions.
Ran into a problem with the Thrashin front shift lever arm.
Saw the head of a bolt under the bike. It was a SS socket head cap screw like used on all the Thrashin stuff. Upon inspection I discovered it was off the front shift link lever. Of course the rest of the bolt is still in there and you cannot get the shaft out. I tried using a left hand drill bit with the drill in reverse. It was just too hard to deal with still on the bike. The only option was to cut the shaft.
I purchased a new shaft today and installed the stock arm back on the bike.
It is clearly a defective socket head bolt. The grain in it looks weird and is a funky grey color. I sent pictures and details to Thrashin. It will be interesting to hear their response. Stay tuned.
Hard to see the core and the color in this picture.
Originally Posted by StreetGlide2021
@Cosmic Razorback I hope Thrashin Customer Service does the right thing and credits the original purchase. Glad you caught this at home. Keep us posted.
UPDATE
The first email to Thrashin went totally unanswered. I sent a second about 10 days later and within a couple of days got the standard "We have NEVER seen this before" reply. Then they wanted to verify that I followed the proper torque specifications they recommended. I had that 100% covered and provided proof.
Received an email back late last night aplogizing and letting me know they have shipped a no charge replacement.
The first email to Thrashin went totally unanswered. I sent a second about 10 days later and within a couple of days got the standard "We have NEVER seen this before" reply. Then they wanted to verify that I followed the proper torque specifications they recommended. I had that 100% covered and provided proof.
Received an email back late last night aplogizing and letting me know they have shipped a no charge replacement.
Thank you Traskin
Your torque wrench may not be the best choice for that fastener. Most will agree accuracy diminishes when nearing the minimum setting. Personally, I would choose an inch pound wrench with a range of O-150 set to 78 inch pounds.
Your torque wrench may not be the best choice for that fastener. Most will agree accuracy diminishes when nearing the minimum setting. Personally, I would choose an inch pound wrench with a range of O-150 set to 78 inch pounds.
Funny you should mention that. Was speaking with a friend that wrenches for a living and he suggested the same. I picked up a nice 1/4 drive in Inch Pounds and I am also shopping for a good digital 3/8 drive that I can afford. Thanks
Funny you should mention that. Was speaking with a friend that wrenches for a living and he suggested the same. I picked up a nice 1/4 drive in Inch Pounds and I am also shopping for a good digital 3/8 drive that I can afford. Thanks
Good choice. I use a good quality dial torque wrench on anything below 20lb/ft. Learned the hard way too many times building unit injectors for diesel engines. Clickers and digital will snap small fasteners, especially with a "pinch" like you are spanning.
08-02-2022 | 05:41 PM
