Too cool

 

Ok, thought I had it fixed with the battery and it is better but it always takes 4-8 seconds of cranking to start. Last couple days I put my inline spark tester on it when I start. It cranks 3-4 seconds with no spark and then it will show spark and start. Got me scratchin my head lol. Here's a list of all the parts I've thrown at it. New battery, new coil, new wires and plugs. new crank position sensor, new fuel filter and pressure regulator. I've tried it with my Power Commander V hook up and disconnected, No difference. Once it's running it runs great, no issues. It's just getting it started. Any ideas?????

 

You are always staying on starter with one continuous crank till it starts?

It does take almost 360 turn for the CSP to see enough hits to fire and turn on fuel pump. Fuel pump then runs all the time once running .

When you disconnect the tuner, it will take a while to become adjusted to your throttle habits for it's fuzzy logic to adjust mixture.

Oxygen sensors read/write logic is not instant. However start should be hard logic. But is controlled by temperature sensor and cps.

If you have ever sprayed carb cleaner in it, it will wash crud in temperature sensor and cps. Also IAC motor on older throttle cable bikes Always clean butterfly and seating area with cleaner on a rag.

Check you temperature sensor

 

use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage under load while starting.
the crank sensor and temp sensors are not too bad on the wallet and pretty easy to replace so not bad purchases. did both on my 12.
maybe i missed it any codes.

 

That's a yes to staying on starter with one continuous crank till it starts. I've checked for codes but none have been thrown. I ordered a temp sensor so we will see lol. Thanks for all the help.....

 

My not too knowledgeable 2 cents: I believe you need a good battery to keep the starter turning and the fuel pump delivering enough pressure. Fuel filters should be changed every couple of years, they are not expensive. A lot of people on the forum have solved issues by cleaning up the electrical connector to the fuel injector on the throttle body (hopefully my terminology makes sense). Crank position sensor - don't think these are a big price to check out. Check coils and maybe check out the plug wires and connectors? Relating to the battery have the charging system checked.

 

Ok think I may have found the problem but can't find out why it would do it. The run/stop switch. As I've said before it will crank just fine but will have no spark. Flip the switch on and off a few times and the bike starts right up. My list of parts I keep throwing at it is pretty long lol. New battery, new coil, new wires and plugs. new crank position sensor, new temp sensor, new fuel filter and pressure regulator. When you turn those switches to stop the bike will not crank at all and that is normal. Can anyone explain to me how a bad switch would just cause it to not have spark? I would just like to be sure before I throw another part at it.....

 

I don't think it's that switch. If it was, it would not crank either. However, I do believe it's a bad connection. Maybe in ECM or CANBUS. Does your tuner piggyback into it. If so, look at all pins carefully including female side.


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I agree with you. I really didn't think the switch would cause a no spark thing, but I was hoping someone would say "yep happened to me" lol. It's just funny how playing with that switch will cause it to start. I will recheck all connections and post my findings.....

 

Think flipping switch off and on is throwing voltage across a connection in ECM that heats a bad connection enough to make it grow an extremely small and unmeasurable amount but enough that allows fire start relay to crank.

With ignition on, and you crank, it still has to get enough counts on the squares and notches cut in crank from CPS to know engine position and set timing and only then does it start firing and turn on fuel pump full time.