Looking at your pics again it looks like you have your brake and clutch cable zip tied to the bars? does that cause any interference? And are they the stock ones?

 

I have the Khrome Werks bars and fyi be aware that they have two styles of bagger bars. One set has bends that are more straight at the grip area, kinda like holding a broomstick, and the other style rounds down a bit more like the stock bars. Has a more classic look. The latter is what I went with and am very Happy with comfort and looks.

 

BackRoader,

yes they have quite a few designs dont they!! My mind was getting tired reading all the info and sizes..lol... I like the style that has more of a parallel hand grip position to the fairing and not so much of a turn back. My hands tend to go numb with the more turned back hand grips... Had the same issue on my old road king until I put bars with a straighter hand position on and a tad bit higher than stock.

 

Did any of you guys have to replace the clamp on your bike when you replace the bars to the 10" bars? I just had a dealer respond back to be and said that the clamp that hold the handlebars has to be replaced with a 1 piece clamp?? I havent read that anywhere on any of the handlebar specs and requirements that I have looked at...anybody else have info on that??

 

Nope, doesn't hurt anything at all and keeps them tidy. Just don't reef the snot out of them when you snug them down. Follow the video on the KST website. You can follow the video in sections on your phone or laptop while you do it... watch a minute or so, then do it....watch another minute or so , then do it.. etc. Take pictures on your smart phone of plug positions once you get the front fairing off so you have some reference if you get lost. It is a pretty straight forward install without the bushings just time consuming. The bushings are a little more work. I would advise you to take your time and run the wiring thru the bars. Looks so much better and is well worth the time involved. I originally ordered the Yaffe " super clamp" but they sent me the wrong one (smaller bolt pattern) so I just reused my original clamp as I didn't want to wait around for parts again.

 

You should not have to do that.

On my old Road King the bike had 2 piece handlebar clamps and that design would allow the bars to move pretty easily. I replaced with a one piece clamp when I changed the bars and now they are solid as a rock.

As far as I know HD has only used one piece clamps on touring bikes for quite awhile now. That was definitely the case on my ‘18 Ultra, and my 10” bars are solid on this bike as well. I’m sure you will find a one piece clamp on your bike so no need to replace it.

 

I went with the 590 Hooked Ape bars and find them very comfortable.

The 578 is a bit more traditional looking and probably very similar to what you’re looking at from other manufacturers. Either 590 or 578 would be a good choice I think....I just kinda liked the 590 “hooked” look even though it’s been done to death.

The hooked bars probably take a bit more effort to wire internally but it’s really not too bad. Took me about 30 or 45 minutes as I recall.

But I think the 578s would actually be pretty easy to fish the wire through.

Bike looks really clean with internal wiring and on late model bikes you don’t even need to depin the plugs.....the newer style plug ends are small enough to easily pass through the bars.

And you probably already know this, but I’ve found low speed handling to be much improved with the new bars. A very good upgrade IMO.

Good luck with your decision

 

no, not with either of those KSTs I posted above.

 

Might take a look at Todd's Cycles 10" Bagger Apes. They are 1.25" and keep my hands just below the fairing.

 

NICE looking for sure. I looked at the 90 degree turn bars and the mayhems and they all look cool as hell, but for me I just like the curves versus the straight angles. The bikes that have them like yours definitely look awesome though!