The bank sensor comments brought back to me that I had to replace mine as well about 10 years ago. ('00 FLTR) I tested it by grounding what I think was the gray wire to the frame (google to confirm.) That did turn out to be the solution in my case.

 

To add, since the stator charges the voltage regulator, the voltage regulator is on the one side of the 50 amp fuse, then you have the other side of the 50 amp fuse that is most of the positive connections, like wire to starter solenoid and back to battery, if you can still crank the bike after it shuts off, then not a problem in the charging system, or even the ground back to battery off the starter bolting lug.

Hence ECM is getting power, but not sending out the spark due to either cam or bank sensors or their wiring problems from the heat.
Simply, once the bike cools down again, will start again.

 

so I did a diagnosis on the bike with the shut off and back on thing and I got a 44 and 41 code. What is that?

 

I would replace crank position sensor ( 41 ) , clear the codes and test ride . Keep us posted .

 

So there are codes after all!

41 is the crankshaft position sensor.
44 is the bank angle sensor.

At this point, I would clear both and start anew.

 

Could be both sensor bad, but would pull up a wiring diagram schematic, and see what the two have in common.

On my 97RK, got codes for engine temp sensor and TPS sensor, know that both of these where fine, but shared a ground line back to the ECM with three other sensors as well that was showing problems when I did continuity checks between the sensor and ecm connector pins.
Note, just these two wires, and not the rest of the other sensor wires that where on the same circuit wire back to the same ECM pins.

So tracing the wires back, found the ground splice connector about a foot from the ECM connector, with the two problem sensors on the motor side of the spice connector, while the other sensors and ground wire back to the ECM on the ECM side of the connector, was my problem.

HD used a crimp type connector for the splice joint of all the wires, then before they install the heat shrink type shield to the connector to protect it, they used a type of hot glue to water proof the splice connection inside the rubber heat shrink protector.
So in my case, it was the hot glue sealer that has remelted over time, to encase the motor side wires in the splice connector to cause them to start to loose continuity with the splice connector inner barrel section, and cause the problems.
Hence I had to removed the HD slice connector, soldered in a new splice connector to all the wires, with heaver heat shink tubing (no hot glue used), to resolve the problem.
Also, not a bad idea to pull the ECM connector to clean it and the ecm pins up (spray electrical cleaner), a good shot of either silicone or WD40 to the connectors to prevent them from corroding again as well as you are doing the continuity check while bending the wires at the splice joint if they share any common wire circuits.



found a wiring diagram for 1999 road king (hard to read though),
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...g-diagram.html

Cam position sensor is going through connector 11, shares both 5v reference and grounds with a few other sensors so we know that spice connectors are involved, but not finding the bank angle sensor to see how its ties in to what circuits/to the ECM.

 

I just want to thank everybody for your input and your help. You guys are amazing and thank you so much. I found the problem and it was the crank position sensor which only cost me $62 to fix. Again thank you guys very much you are all amazing

 

Kind of normal for the crank sensor to go south over time. It's induction magnet goes weak from age as its trying to read the gap, and the weaker the magnet becomes, the weaker the signal output. Also, might want to look into replacing the crank senor and maybe the speedo sensor in the trans for the same reasons as well.

On the speedo sensor in the trans, you can tell when its induction magnet goes weak, since will not get low MPH reading of say under 10mph, but once you do get above 10mph/ish, needle jumps and speedo MPH starts to read correctly instead.


Really, now that the bike is running fine, just keep a look out at the trouble light on the speedo when you start the bike, since if there is a history code stored, light will come on for about 5 seconds, then shut back off. Since you know now to do the three 4 seconds ignition ons and off to read the codes, if you do get a history code at start up, check to see what it is, and what ageing sensor may be causing the problem. As for clearing trouble codes, just disconnect the battery for a few mins, and this will clear the stored history codes in the ECM.