99 road king classic trouble
#21
You’ve checked this to make certain?
From your clarification (thanks for that), seems to be isolated to the ignition. The lights are on, you hear the fuel pump, the engine cranks over without starting.
Looking at the parts listing, I’m seeing both camshaft and crankshaft sensors, an ignition module, and one coil.
I do not know the specifications for the sensors, but it should be in the service manual. Check them, hot and cold. As they both appear easily removed for visual inspection, I would also do that.
same for the ignition coil. Check hot and cold specs, visually inspect.
As for the ignition module itself... visually inspect and make sure the connections are clean.
Few other things.
Make sure the fuel injectors are actually squirting when the bike has died. To prove it is not the fuel injection circuit.
check the voltage to the coil when it dies, as well the grounding signal (presuming that’s how it creates the spark signal). If the voltage and signal are there, but there’s no spark, the coil is likely heating and failing when hot.
Check the signals you can discern with a meter on the cam and crank sensors. Check again when the engine dies. Compare. If one has changed, suspect that sensor of failing when hot.
From your clarification (thanks for that), seems to be isolated to the ignition. The lights are on, you hear the fuel pump, the engine cranks over without starting.
Looking at the parts listing, I’m seeing both camshaft and crankshaft sensors, an ignition module, and one coil.
I do not know the specifications for the sensors, but it should be in the service manual. Check them, hot and cold. As they both appear easily removed for visual inspection, I would also do that.
same for the ignition coil. Check hot and cold specs, visually inspect.
As for the ignition module itself... visually inspect and make sure the connections are clean.
Few other things.
Make sure the fuel injectors are actually squirting when the bike has died. To prove it is not the fuel injection circuit.
check the voltage to the coil when it dies, as well the grounding signal (presuming that’s how it creates the spark signal). If the voltage and signal are there, but there’s no spark, the coil is likely heating and failing when hot.
Check the signals you can discern with a meter on the cam and crank sensors. Check again when the engine dies. Compare. If one has changed, suspect that sensor of failing when hot.
#23
Had the same bike and year - put almost 80K miles on it - really liked that bike
Bike shut down completely going down the highway. Pulled over flipped off the ignition switch on top of the tank trim. Thought about it which made no sense, then tried to start it gain and it started and ran fine until it did the same thing.
Long story short, the length of wires for the plug connector that plugs into the ignition switch under the tank trim piece are very tight, meaning no extra play or flex, and I think it was pulling off the ignition switch and cutting power. I thought it was a bad ignition switch so I bought a new one, tugged a little on the wiring harness and made sure there was what appeared to be a tight connection. Never had the problem again.
May be worth making sure that connection is nice and tight - very easy to get that top tank trim piece off and check
Bike shut down completely going down the highway. Pulled over flipped off the ignition switch on top of the tank trim. Thought about it which made no sense, then tried to start it gain and it started and ran fine until it did the same thing.
Long story short, the length of wires for the plug connector that plugs into the ignition switch under the tank trim piece are very tight, meaning no extra play or flex, and I think it was pulling off the ignition switch and cutting power. I thought it was a bad ignition switch so I bought a new one, tugged a little on the wiring harness and made sure there was what appeared to be a tight connection. Never had the problem again.
May be worth making sure that connection is nice and tight - very easy to get that top tank trim piece off and check
#27
In 1999 there was a service note or recall or whatever regarding a bank angle sensor.
Basically the sensor that triggers when bike falls on its side and then shuts the motor off.
If i recall the bracket for the sensor was bad not the actual sensor.
Broken bracket = leaning sensor causing shut off.
Look at this part number in parts finder link.
It is not the part that is bad it is how it is mounted if that is your problem.
32495-98A bank angle switch
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
Basically the sensor that triggers when bike falls on its side and then shuts the motor off.
If i recall the bracket for the sensor was bad not the actual sensor.
Broken bracket = leaning sensor causing shut off.
Look at this part number in parts finder link.
It is not the part that is bad it is how it is mounted if that is your problem.
32495-98A bank angle switch
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
#28
In 1999 there was a service note or recall or whatever regarding a bank angle sensor.
Basically the sensor that triggers when bike falls on its side and then shuts the motor off.
If i recall the bracket for the sensor was bad not the actual sensor.
Broken bracket = leaning sensor causing shut off.
Look at this part number in parts finder link.
It is not the part that is bad it is how it is mounted if that is your problem.
32495-98A bank angle switch
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
Basically the sensor that triggers when bike falls on its side and then shuts the motor off.
If i recall the bracket for the sensor was bad not the actual sensor.
Broken bracket = leaning sensor causing shut off.
Look at this part number in parts finder link.
It is not the part that is bad it is how it is mounted if that is your problem.
32495-98A bank angle switch
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
#29
FI or carbed?
If carb, then check the the vacuum switch assembly hoses for leaks, and/or by pass it for testing since it is what is controlling the spark. Hence could just be a matter of once the motor warms up, what small leaks the lines had cold, increase to the point that is looses vacuum and kills the coils spark.
If FI, then best guess is either the cam position sensor or it wiring has a problem, or as stated, the bank angle/tilt kill switch has a problem instead.
#10 is the cam position sensor that controls spark, while 11 is the crank position sensor that controls the fuel injection.
So here since it a spark problem, could be that the cam sensor if fine, but the connector under the motor has problems when warm and why you are loosing spark.
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...0W/%20SWITCHES
As for the bank angle switch that will kill the output of the cam postion sensor to the ecm if the bike is dropped (or it starts to go south), it is under the seat on the LH side behind the battery. To test it, when the bike gets hot and you don't have spark, but a ohm meter across is connector pins to look for continuity to make sure it still has it/ it's not killing the signal from the crank position sensor as the bike heats up. Also, double check its connector, since it may just be slightly unplugged or weak connection of the pins, and heat is causing the problem if if loosing connection at the pins when the bike warms up isntead.
Also, if the mounting screw fell out and it laying kind of sideways like the bike was dropped, that could be your problem as well.
Part number number 14.
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...UIT%20BREAKERS
If carb, then check the the vacuum switch assembly hoses for leaks, and/or by pass it for testing since it is what is controlling the spark. Hence could just be a matter of once the motor warms up, what small leaks the lines had cold, increase to the point that is looses vacuum and kills the coils spark.
If FI, then best guess is either the cam position sensor or it wiring has a problem, or as stated, the bank angle/tilt kill switch has a problem instead.
#10 is the cam position sensor that controls spark, while 11 is the crank position sensor that controls the fuel injection.
So here since it a spark problem, could be that the cam sensor if fine, but the connector under the motor has problems when warm and why you are loosing spark.
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...0W/%20SWITCHES
As for the bank angle switch that will kill the output of the cam postion sensor to the ecm if the bike is dropped (or it starts to go south), it is under the seat on the LH side behind the battery. To test it, when the bike gets hot and you don't have spark, but a ohm meter across is connector pins to look for continuity to make sure it still has it/ it's not killing the signal from the crank position sensor as the bike heats up. Also, double check its connector, since it may just be slightly unplugged or weak connection of the pins, and heat is causing the problem if if loosing connection at the pins when the bike warms up isntead.
Also, if the mounting screw fell out and it laying kind of sideways like the bike was dropped, that could be your problem as well.
Part number number 14.
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...UIT%20BREAKERS
#30
So to confirm,,
You have NOT physically reviewed the Bank Angle Sensor, the mounting of the sensor, the bracket for sensor or wiring to sensor.
Another thing:
If bike is parked and not rolling in gear then when a momentary loss of contact is experienced the bike will shut down.
A loose or bad connection that is caused by vibration could result in a shut down.
Get a big rubber hammer.
Remove the seat...Start the bike and while it is running start hitting hard parts... for example...the end of handle bars, crash guards, bag guards, axle nuts, frame.
If you say that bike runs 3-4 minutes then your entire test should be be preplanned to complete in 1 minute when bike shuts down.
You have NOT physically reviewed the Bank Angle Sensor, the mounting of the sensor, the bracket for sensor or wiring to sensor.
Another thing:
If bike is parked and not rolling in gear then when a momentary loss of contact is experienced the bike will shut down.
A loose or bad connection that is caused by vibration could result in a shut down.
Get a big rubber hammer.
Remove the seat...Start the bike and while it is running start hitting hard parts... for example...the end of handle bars, crash guards, bag guards, axle nuts, frame.
If you say that bike runs 3-4 minutes then your entire test should be be preplanned to complete in 1 minute when bike shuts down.