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99 road king classic trouble

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  #11  
Old 03-12-2021 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Chadballer1
I have a 99 road king classic and it will start and run for about 3-4 minutes then shuts off. Try to start it back up and nothing. 10 minutes later... it starts again and does the same thing. Please help
What do you mean “does nothing”?
Does it crank but not fire? Not crank at all? Does the starter click but not engage? Are the lights and all dead as well?

When it dies, does it shut off sharply, like you’ve turned the key, or does it wheeze and fade? Do the lights die too?

Details will help us to help you.
 
  #12  
Old 03-12-2021 | 06:08 AM
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Another question, bike ran fine prior to storage.
 
  #13  
Old 03-12-2021 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
What do you mean “does nothing”?
Does it crank but not fire? Not crank at all? Does the starter click but not engage? Are the lights and all dead as well?

When it dies, does it shut off sharply, like you’ve turned the key, or does it wheeze and fade? Do the lights die too?

Details will help us to help you.
yes the bike turns over. All lights work. Just shuts off like it was turned off. Fuel pump kicks on. It won’t start after it stops for about 10 minutes. Went through all the wiring under seat and under side panels to check for loose connections. The bike ran fine before storage. Was stored for 3 years but started occasionally.
 
  #14  
Old 03-12-2021 | 06:41 AM
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Just thinking , possibly a bad voltage regulator , when they start to heat up they can go south and not throw a code . Check the two connectors ( V.R and Stator ) under the front of the frame , clean them up , usually oil from the oil filter drips down on them causing issues , also check for damaged wires , pins etc .
 
  #15  
Old 03-12-2021 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by MyFavRk
Just thinking , possibly a bad voltage regulator , when they start to heat up they can go south and not throw a code . Check the two connectors ( V.R and Stator ) under the front of the frame , clean them up , usually oil from the oil filter drips down on them causing issues , also check for damaged wires , pins etc .
I was told it could possibly be the CPS. Any thoughts on that?
 
  #16  
Old 03-12-2021 | 07:09 AM
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Could very well be , they've been known to not throw codes as well . Before replacing it , clean up the connector and then pull it , give it a good cleaning , could be gummed up with crud causing a non reading issue , or the magnet inside is just getting " tired " . Cheap enough to replace .
 
  #17  
Old 03-12-2021 | 07:36 AM
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I will bet you $5 it's one of the two things I mentioned
 
  #18  
Old 03-12-2021 | 07:57 AM
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Check to see if you have spark. Does it have fuel to the injectors or carbs (fuel pump turning on does not mean it is getting gas to the engine)? Any noise in the fuel tank when you turn it on other that the sound of the fuel pump? Engine make any other noises at the cam chest area?

Toby
 
  #19  
Old 03-12-2021 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by twistedcherokee
Check to see if you have spark. Does it have fuel to the injectors or carbs (fuel pump turning on does not mean it is getting gas to the engine)? Any noise in the fuel tank when you turn it on other that the sound of the fuel pump? Engine make any other noises at the cam chest area?

Toby
no spark after it shuts off. After 10 minutes it will start again and shut off again after about 5 minutes
 
  #20  
Old 03-12-2021 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Chadballer1
no spark after it shuts off.
You’ve checked this to make certain?

From your clarification (thanks for that), seems to be isolated to the ignition. The lights are on, you hear the fuel pump, the engine cranks over without starting.

Looking at the parts listing, I’m seeing both camshaft and crankshaft sensors, an ignition module, and one coil.

I do not know the specifications for the sensors, but it should be in the service manual. Check them, hot and cold. As they both appear easily removed for visual inspection, I would also do that.

same for the ignition coil. Check hot and cold specs, visually inspect.

As for the ignition module itself... visually inspect and make sure the connections are clean.

Few other things.

Make sure the fuel injectors are actually squirting when the bike has died. To prove it is not the fuel injection circuit.

check the voltage to the coil when it dies, as well the grounding signal (presuming that’s how it creates the spark signal). If the voltage and signal are there, but there’s no spark, the coil is likely heating and failing when hot.

Check the signals you can discern with a meter on the cam and crank sensors. Check again when the engine dies. Compare. If one has changed, suspect that sensor of failing when hot.
 


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