I'm sure it's asked over and over but I'm not in the weeds knowledgeable about all the intricacies involved in selecting the proper cam shaft. My FLHR is my daily ride, but I also do frequent long trips sometimes 2up and loaded, with the occasional friendly light to light dick measuring. essentially I need more bottom end grunt but need to be able to cruise at 90mph for hours on end.

2012 FLHR
103 stage 1
Arlen Ness 65 degree intake
true duals/clockwerks platinum revolver slip ons
ThunderMax tuner (awesome!)

When I do the cam-chest upgrade this is what I'll end up with:
Cams (undecided), S&S oil pump, cam-plate, timken bearings
mild headwork to include new springs, S&S roller rockers, lifters, adjustable push-rods, porting, valve grind
2-1-2 head pipe and probably different slips ons
Dyno-tuned

I've looked at the great comparison article that Fuel Moto did and 3 of my top contenders are in it:

Woods 222
S&S 583
RedShift 527

Obviously I'm open to other suggestions if another cam is better suited to the changes I'm making.

Thanks in advance

 

Depending on whom you ask , the pump, cam plate and roller rockers are an unnecessary expense

Great parts but not required

 

Take the woods 222 off the list since you're doing headwork...they'll be out of breath before you get to where the headwork pays off. Ill second keeping the stock pump and plate, assuming that theyre in spec. Save the money for the roller rockers too...not needed for the cams yourr looking at. Enough for saving money now let's spend some. Don't overlook the s and s 570s, good all around cam...yes im a little biased on them.

 

There are a lot of good parts, cams, pumps, bearings, etc, etc..... Not all work well with each other, nor are some necessary on a mild street build...

If you are not knowledgeable about them, and especially if you are considering headwork, I would find a shop you trust.. if there is not one local to you that has a stellar reputation, there are several forum sponsors who do excellent work...

In any case, consult a shop you trust, and tell them your goals.... Let them come up with a package they have used, that is proven to them it will reach your goals, and then trust their knowledge and experience..... go with their recommendations....

Make sure to get a good tune.. Not every dyno operator, or dealer/shop, is a good tuner...

Do your homework before picking a shop/tuner... then trust them..

Modding can be a lot of fun (yes, I have the disease)... but it can also be a money pit, with less than satisfying results...

Good luck... and have fun...!!

 

Not to say there aren't a lot of knowledgeable people here on the forum, but only your engine builder knows the details of the head work that will be done, what the compression ratio will be etc. These are important considerations when selecting the right cam and I'd be looking to your engine builder and/or dyno tuner for recommendations. If they're experienced I'm sure they have some favorites that are proven to work well with your chosen mods.

 

Thanks for the response. My thoughts on replacing the pump/cam plates is more about being a 60k motor, probably 70k or more by the time this happens. The roller rockers I'd hoped would help quiet down the valve train?

 

That information about the 222 is what I'm looking for so thanks for that. The other parts are a mileage concern being at 60k now and more like 70k plus by the time this happens, the roller rockers I'd hoped would help quiet the valve train? Thanks for the suggestions!

 

I'm seeing that, I guess I left out some information; my rational for replacing those items is because I'm at 60k now and will likely be 70k or so before I do this, the roller rockers are to help quiet the valve train. As long as I have the cam chest pulled down I'm just not enthused at the thought of reinstalling 70k parts when there are much better quality options out there.

thanks for the response!

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm doing the work, this isn't a complete rebuild but so long as I'm in the cam chest I figure I'll upgrade the entire valve train considering I'm at 60k now and will be likely at 70k by then. I'll be sure to ask the machine shop doing the headwork for their input as well so good tip, thanks.

 

I dont have them but I've seen and read a few a few times, the great builders on here say that the roller rockers are actually noisier then non rollers...you'd think it wouldn't be that way lol. Oh and check that crank runout...its good to have a baseline so you know in the future if your crank has shifted or if its holding strong.