TC88: Preparing For Upgrades
#1
TC88: Preparing For Upgrades
I recently purchased this 2006 Road King. I don't know a whole lot about it and the previous owner didn't seem to know much about it (he only owned it for a few months).
It's headed into the local Indy to get a look at the cam chain tensioners. The bike has 41,000 miles on it. He recommends it's time to take a look. If they're good, I've bought some time for the cost of gaskets and his effort. But, if the writing is on the wall, we'll deal with it. The problem arises (and is the subject of this thread) when you begin the path of "while you're in there...."
IF we need to address them, he said he'll change the cam bearings while he's in there. AND, if he's pulling things, you might as well upgrade the pump and go to hydraulic tensioners. THEN, remember those cams that came out? Well, wouldn't a set of cams be the smart thing since you're in there? See how greasy that slippery slope can be!
He's flexible to install whatever components I'd like, so long as it isn't an obvious mistake. He said he usually uses the H-D cam plate and upgraded oil pump and will install whatever cam I choose. I have a set of adjustable pushrods already. Other than that, parts would need to be sourced. So, I'm looking at this sea of components, kits, and upgrades trying to decipher the best path for me and my Ol' Road King. My initial thought was to upgrade to hydraulic cam tensioners and Timken bearings inside. Then, upgrade the cams with a set of Cycle-Rama 570-2s. Down the road, I'm planning on punching out the jugs for a little more power, but that's down the road. The bike has a TMax already so changes to adjust are as close as my laptop.
I rarely go over 4,000 revs and don't think I've ever hit the rev limiter. I ride alone and two-up. I scoured several threads on here and other forums on the 'net and the 570-2 cams sound like they should work fine. BUT, then I browse sites with complete cam chest upgrade kits (gear drives included) and start to wonder. What about the Andrews 48H cams? Also, the Cycle-Rama cams don't come in an upgrade kit that I've seen.
So, with the intent of keeping this site active with yet another "what should I do?" question, I pose to those who have trodden this path, and those who know where all the pitfalls lie-- what are YOUR thoughts if I wind up needing to replace the tensioners? Do gear drives bring anything more to the program? Do they have inherent issues for daily, street drivers? I know about the runout issue, and since I won't be ordering anything until we know the condition of things inside, we can check the runout if we decide to go that route.
A lot of talk revolves around the 96 and 107 engines. Will the 570-2 cams bring anything adverse to the table for my little 88ci engine?
Any reason to go with a cam chest kit like S&S over the H-D stuff?
I've read the 107 Cams shootout thread with some great information but just opening up this thread with more specific information about my application and a "what would YOU do" opportunity.
Any thoughts and info are always greatly appreciated!
It's headed into the local Indy to get a look at the cam chain tensioners. The bike has 41,000 miles on it. He recommends it's time to take a look. If they're good, I've bought some time for the cost of gaskets and his effort. But, if the writing is on the wall, we'll deal with it. The problem arises (and is the subject of this thread) when you begin the path of "while you're in there...."
IF we need to address them, he said he'll change the cam bearings while he's in there. AND, if he's pulling things, you might as well upgrade the pump and go to hydraulic tensioners. THEN, remember those cams that came out? Well, wouldn't a set of cams be the smart thing since you're in there? See how greasy that slippery slope can be!
He's flexible to install whatever components I'd like, so long as it isn't an obvious mistake. He said he usually uses the H-D cam plate and upgraded oil pump and will install whatever cam I choose. I have a set of adjustable pushrods already. Other than that, parts would need to be sourced. So, I'm looking at this sea of components, kits, and upgrades trying to decipher the best path for me and my Ol' Road King. My initial thought was to upgrade to hydraulic cam tensioners and Timken bearings inside. Then, upgrade the cams with a set of Cycle-Rama 570-2s. Down the road, I'm planning on punching out the jugs for a little more power, but that's down the road. The bike has a TMax already so changes to adjust are as close as my laptop.
I rarely go over 4,000 revs and don't think I've ever hit the rev limiter. I ride alone and two-up. I scoured several threads on here and other forums on the 'net and the 570-2 cams sound like they should work fine. BUT, then I browse sites with complete cam chest upgrade kits (gear drives included) and start to wonder. What about the Andrews 48H cams? Also, the Cycle-Rama cams don't come in an upgrade kit that I've seen.
So, with the intent of keeping this site active with yet another "what should I do?" question, I pose to those who have trodden this path, and those who know where all the pitfalls lie-- what are YOUR thoughts if I wind up needing to replace the tensioners? Do gear drives bring anything more to the program? Do they have inherent issues for daily, street drivers? I know about the runout issue, and since I won't be ordering anything until we know the condition of things inside, we can check the runout if we decide to go that route.
A lot of talk revolves around the 96 and 107 engines. Will the 570-2 cams bring anything adverse to the table for my little 88ci engine?
Any reason to go with a cam chest kit like S&S over the H-D stuff?
I've read the 107 Cams shootout thread with some great information but just opening up this thread with more specific information about my application and a "what would YOU do" opportunity.
Any thoughts and info are always greatly appreciated!
The following 2 users liked this post by Tcrafty:
Gordo-uk (06-07-2024),
tjconnection (12-31-2020)
#2
Cyclerama 570-2 want work in your 88 I don’t believe,cam journal is smaller on your bike.
If it was my bike I would just change out tensioners on the bike,put new cam bearings in.The oil pump and stock plate will be fine.
as for cam I believe andrews 21 cam would about perfect for the rpm range you ride in
If it was my bike I would just change out tensioners on the bike,put new cam bearings in.The oil pump and stock plate will be fine.
as for cam I believe andrews 21 cam would about perfect for the rpm range you ride in
Last edited by rdc401; 12-12-2020 at 11:33 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by rdc401:
eighteight (12-14-2020),
Fritz Franz (12-14-2020)
#3
How many miles are you going to put on it....???
If you don't plan on a bunch of long distance touring, with high annual mileage totals, you could just replace the cam tensioner pads with Cyco pads... Then pop the cam chest cover every 30K miles to check the pad wear..
The Cyco tensioner pads are better than OEM and many people have reported very good service life from them (50K+ miles).... If your current pads survived 41K miles without problems, you probably have a good set of the OEM silent link chains, which can also contribute to the excessive spring tensioner wear if they're "sharp"...
I would probably still replace the inner cam bearings while you're in there... but you'd get to keep all the rest of your OEM components, and won't need a new tune when you're done..
It's the least expensive of the cam tensioner fixes...
If you decide on a hydraulic tensioners and a cam, go with the '07+ cam plate upgrade... it will give you the hydraulic tensioners and two new roller chains... You will then need a conversion cam. For an 88" engine I'd recommend the Andrews 21 conversion cam ... it's proven itself many times over, as a great bolt-in cam for 88" engines...
If you don't plan on a bunch of long distance touring, with high annual mileage totals, you could just replace the cam tensioner pads with Cyco pads... Then pop the cam chest cover every 30K miles to check the pad wear..
The Cyco tensioner pads are better than OEM and many people have reported very good service life from them (50K+ miles).... If your current pads survived 41K miles without problems, you probably have a good set of the OEM silent link chains, which can also contribute to the excessive spring tensioner wear if they're "sharp"...
I would probably still replace the inner cam bearings while you're in there... but you'd get to keep all the rest of your OEM components, and won't need a new tune when you're done..
It's the least expensive of the cam tensioner fixes...
If you decide on a hydraulic tensioners and a cam, go with the '07+ cam plate upgrade... it will give you the hydraulic tensioners and two new roller chains... You will then need a conversion cam. For an 88" engine I'd recommend the Andrews 21 conversion cam ... it's proven itself many times over, as a great bolt-in cam for 88" engines...
Last edited by hattitude; 12-12-2020 at 11:43 PM.
The following 5 users liked this post by hattitude:
Campy Roadie (12-14-2020),
Fritz Franz (12-14-2020),
JayStronghawk (12-13-2020),
s-glide76 (01-03-2021),
tjconnection (12-31-2020)
#4
I have a 2004 RK. I would just install the Cyco cam tensioners. The stock HD oil pump is just fine for any build. The Cyco tensioners work just fine so no need to spend the money on the hydraulic tensioners.
I first turned my 88 into a 107 with gear drive . Didn't like the noise of the gear drive so after about 800 miles I pulled it out and went back to the chain drive with Cyco tensioners. Then I went to a 110 and still run the stock oil pump and Cyco tensioners.
If your going to change the tensioners save the money on the cam plate and oil pump and maybe just throw in a set of cams. You might be happy with just doing that. I also run the Thundermax, you will like that.
But if you insist on going all the way on a build, skip the 107 and go streight to the 110. Go with some S&S wheels, cams and their 110 drop in kit. Take your heads to someone who knows what they are doing and have them set-up right for the 110. You will also want to go with a bigger throttle body and put a stronger clutch spring in.
Bruce
I first turned my 88 into a 107 with gear drive . Didn't like the noise of the gear drive so after about 800 miles I pulled it out and went back to the chain drive with Cyco tensioners. Then I went to a 110 and still run the stock oil pump and Cyco tensioners.
If your going to change the tensioners save the money on the cam plate and oil pump and maybe just throw in a set of cams. You might be happy with just doing that. I also run the Thundermax, you will like that.
But if you insist on going all the way on a build, skip the 107 and go streight to the 110. Go with some S&S wheels, cams and their 110 drop in kit. Take your heads to someone who knows what they are doing and have them set-up right for the 110. You will also want to go with a bigger throttle body and put a stronger clutch spring in.
Bruce
Last edited by Brew61; 12-13-2020 at 12:45 AM.
The following users liked this post:
tjconnection (12-31-2020)
#5
That's a new one to me... I've never seen gear drive cams that also had cam tensioners......?
Maybe that's why your gear drive cams were so noisy...???
The following users liked this post:
Campy Roadie (12-14-2020)
#6
--> I'm planning on punching out the jugs for a little more power, but that's down the road.
--> for my little 88ci engine?
Easier to pick the parts when you decide which way you want to go.
If you are going to go big-bore later, just do bearings, tensioners and rocker box breathers now. The cam plate and pump should be fine. Take a oil pressure reading before going in so to know what you have.
Take a good look at the cam and lifters with the mileage you have.
You wont need a tune keeping the cams you have now.
Cam for TC88 : S&S 509 or Andrews 21. I'm happy with 509. Probably not much difference with the low compression TC88. You'll want to add new lifters, rocker box breathers and tune. Maybe chains. Your indy will let you know.
Copy this in google and read away: hdforums.com: tc88 best cam
When you decide on the bore upgrade, you'll get different answers.
hth
--> for my little 88ci engine?
Easier to pick the parts when you decide which way you want to go.
If you are going to go big-bore later, just do bearings, tensioners and rocker box breathers now. The cam plate and pump should be fine. Take a oil pressure reading before going in so to know what you have.
Take a good look at the cam and lifters with the mileage you have.
You wont need a tune keeping the cams you have now.
Cam for TC88 : S&S 509 or Andrews 21. I'm happy with 509. Probably not much difference with the low compression TC88. You'll want to add new lifters, rocker box breathers and tune. Maybe chains. Your indy will let you know.
Copy this in google and read away: hdforums.com: tc88 best cam
When you decide on the bore upgrade, you'll get different answers.
hth
#7
Bruce
The following users liked this post:
hattitude (12-13-2020)
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#8
How many miles are you going to put on it....???
Good question. I intend for this to be my long-term ride. I've had it for about three months now and have put almost 4,000 miles on it. (37,xxx when bought, has over 41,xxx on it now.) Will likely slow down some as the newness wears off, but also thinking of some long rides in the future. Dependability is a concern.
I would just install the Cyco cam tensioners.
I have read about them. Will speak with my Indy about them. I don't want to be the guy telling the guy who does this for a living, "Well, EVERYONE on the forum says..." But, the reason I chose him is that he took the time to explain things from his point of view. Being my first H-D, I'm soaking information from all angles and input, this forum included. Thanks for that.
Cam for TC88 : S&S 509 or Andrews 21.
Being new to twin-cam engines, my knowledge base increases daily. Had looked at the S&S 509, but hadn't considered the Andrews 21. Will check it out along with the due-diligence googlin'. The A21 cam doesn't seem to come up much, is that because it's overshadowed by newer grinds or has the bigger bores hogged all the spotlight and the A21 cam works well in the TC88?
Also, rdc401 mentioned journal size differences with the TC88. First I heard of that. IS that an issue? I'm sure my Indy would know, but trying not to bug him too much while I sort my thoughts leading up to Wednesday. I LOVE to learn. I HATE to bug people.
Thanks for the input. Some great information and things to consider. The main determinant will be when we crack the seal on the side this Wednesday. Not even sure WHAT is in there.
Good question. I intend for this to be my long-term ride. I've had it for about three months now and have put almost 4,000 miles on it. (37,xxx when bought, has over 41,xxx on it now.) Will likely slow down some as the newness wears off, but also thinking of some long rides in the future. Dependability is a concern.
I would just install the Cyco cam tensioners.
I have read about them. Will speak with my Indy about them. I don't want to be the guy telling the guy who does this for a living, "Well, EVERYONE on the forum says..." But, the reason I chose him is that he took the time to explain things from his point of view. Being my first H-D, I'm soaking information from all angles and input, this forum included. Thanks for that.
Cam for TC88 : S&S 509 or Andrews 21.
Being new to twin-cam engines, my knowledge base increases daily. Had looked at the S&S 509, but hadn't considered the Andrews 21. Will check it out along with the due-diligence googlin'. The A21 cam doesn't seem to come up much, is that because it's overshadowed by newer grinds or has the bigger bores hogged all the spotlight and the A21 cam works well in the TC88?
Also, rdc401 mentioned journal size differences with the TC88. First I heard of that. IS that an issue? I'm sure my Indy would know, but trying not to bug him too much while I sort my thoughts leading up to Wednesday. I LOVE to learn. I HATE to bug people.
Thanks for the input. Some great information and things to consider. The main determinant will be when we crack the seal on the side this Wednesday. Not even sure WHAT is in there.
The following users liked this post:
tjconnection (12-31-2020)
#9
No need to over think this. You have a TC88 in a big-o-hog. For that,nothing is going to run like a 103/107/110. Just put the S&S 509, lifter, Cycos and parts for some low end grunt. Proven upgrade in the TC88 time and time again. Ride with a smile for a long time. You'll thanks me later.
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tjconnection (12-31-2020)
#10
I had an 02 Road King Classic that I installed S&S509 cams with the cyco shoes and timken inner cam bearings. I opted to stay with the stock pushrods and oil pump and cam plate. Mine had a Doebeck pot style tuner on it when I bought it and I was happy with that combo when it was done.I also ran a stock head pipe with factory Rushmore mufflers. The only thing I would have done differently would be a different tuner. The bike performed very well for what it was, and didn’t break the bank for the upgrades.