30 lb-ft on the handlebar clamps is crazy. I didn't get any instructions with my KST bars, but I think in one of the videos (the Road Glide install I think?) they mentioned 30 lb-ft and thought "That has to be a mistake"
Harley spec for any touring bike for a while now has been 16-20 lb-ft.
As critical (or more) is the tightening sequence.
The clamp is deigned for the forward facing joint between the top and bottom halves to be closed at the front edge. You have to tighten the front bolts until the top piece stops hard against the bottom piece. Torque those front bolts to spec with the clamp closed (I did 19 lb-ft). THEN, torque the back bolts to spec (again, I did 19 lb-ft).
Some people tighten up the front and the back a little at a time (I've even seen this done in a major online retailer's instructional video....) and trying to get the gaps even. Don't do that. You want some rotational "pinch" on the knurled section of the bar. That will keep it from moving.
Agreed the tightening sequence is important...but I think you're off a bit. Both my 2012 & 2020 Touring service manuals say "tighten forward clamp screws until upper and lower handlebar clamps make contact", then tighten screws, rear bolts first (16-20 ft-lbs), then the front bolts (same 16-20 ft-lbs)
Hmm, really?
This is what they have currently for their handlebar installation instructions (from P&A website)
11. See Figure 4. Tighten the upper handlebar-clamp screws as follows:
a. Tighten the left-side front screw (1) until the left side of the handlebar clamp makes contact with the front of the left-side handlebar riser.
b. Tighten the right-side front screw (2) until the right side of the handlebar clamp makes contact with the front of the right-side handlebar riser.
c. Tighten the left-side front screw (3) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
d. Tighten the right-side front screw (4) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
e. Tighten the right-side rear screw (5) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
f. Tighten the left-side rear screw (6) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
Interestingly, this is also the way BMW describes the handlebar clamp tightening procedure for the R1200 GS.
Either way, the important part is that the front of the clamp should be closed up, top and bottom half touching, and the gap should be at the rear of the clamp.
I have a set of the KST Spearheads on my 2015 RK. I love them. Specifically, I chose the spearheads because they were VERY easy to install and they are adjustable on both planes due to the modular design. I was able to install the 12" set on my roadking with factory cables, but I did have to order electrical extensions for ~$30 from KST. Great company. Well worth the price.
I have the 12" spearheads on my road glide and love them. I live in Georgia about 30 mins from KST's shop so I just rode there and had them do the install. The bars are perfect for me and I really like the adjustability. The guys at KST were awesome. Installed and even threw in a set of Avon grips for me. Couldn't be happier with the whole setup and experience.
My apologies as I see the error in my ways & interpretation . When I read "front" in the service manual (no pics), I took that to be the ones closest to me while sitting on the bike, as if I were riding it.
I now see in the pic below, "front" refers to the front of the bike. I guess now I will have to re-torque them next time I have the gauge cluster off. They're most likely ok, but I know it will bother me...I'm just like that
Sorry about that...my bad...carry on.
Originally Posted by Hammerdown77
Hmm, really?
This is what they have currently for their handlebar installation instructions (from P&A website)
11. See Figure 4. Tighten the upper handlebar-clamp screws as follows:
a. Tighten the left-side front screw (1) until the left side of the handlebar clamp makes contact with the front of the left-side handlebar riser.
b. Tighten the right-side front screw (2) until the right side of the handlebar clamp makes contact with the front of the right-side handlebar riser.
c. Tighten the left-side front screw (3) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
d. Tighten the right-side front screw (4) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
e. Tighten the right-side rear screw (5) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
f. Tighten the left-side rear screw (6) to 21.7–27.1 N·m (16–20 ft-lbs).
Interestingly, this is also the way BMW describes the handlebar clamp tightening procedure for the R1200 GS.
Either way, the important part is that the front of the clamp should be closed up, top and bottom half touching, and the gap should be at the rear of the clamp.
I have a set of the KST Spearheads on my 2015 RK. I love them. Specifically, I chose the spearheads because they were VERY easy to install and they are adjustable on both planes due to the modular design. I was able to install the 12" set on my roadking with factory cables, but I did have to order electrical extensions for ~$30 from KST. Great company. Well worth the price.
Those look great that's a nice looking ride. You did say those were 12's right? They look to be exactly the height I'm looking for.
Those look great that's a nice looking ride. You did say those were 12's right? They look to be exactly the height I'm looking for.
Yes- 12” bars. I love them. I was torn between 12” and 14”, but I am very glad I went with the 12” bars. Very happy with them - 5k miles on them, and I’ll put the same bars on my next bike as well.
10-21-2020, 01:44 PM
. When I read "front" in the service manual (no pics), I took that to be the ones closest to me while sitting on the bike, as if I were riding it.
