I have a 2005 Road Glide FLTRI. New plugs, wires, Fuel Pump, filter and fuel regulator. The bike is running better than it ever has!!!! If I put around town no CEL comes on. The second I twist the throttle wide open the CEL turns on, every time!!! BUT the bike takes on and doesn't skip a beat!!!

Everytime I start the bike the light stays off until I really twist the throttle! Every time its the same two codes.... Clear them manually, clear them with a scanner, they come back everytime I hit the throttle hard!

Big Bore Kit, stage two SE and SE MAP uploaded to the ECM. Codes never came up before the fuel pump, filter and regulator were replaced. Ideas???

 

05-25-2013, 06:57 PM
kenlani
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Cool Finally solved codes p1353, P1356Alright!!!-- I have been going crazy trying to solve the no combustion codes (p1353, 1356) for months now on my 04 FXDLI-finally got it!!I did relay check, plugs, plug wires, tested coil, checked wiring harness and remapped my PCIII -still had a problem with bike cutting out or lugging at 2500 rpm/25% throttle----drove me nuts--I then started on the fuel pump and after changing filter, pressure regulator and a leaking quick disconnect the bike still had the problem--so I then took another look at the fuel pump and discovered the in-tank fuel line from the pump to regulator/filter had the infamous pinhole!!! I missed seeing it the first time but there it was! bought the gates 5/16 line , installed it and Whoopee--bike now starts quick, and runs great----Just thought I'd let you guys know

 

I read that thread as well, but my issue is I have NO issues lol! I ran the pics out of it yesterday, had it going 120mph on then highway and it was still pulling hard! I've gone back through, checked my wire connections, made sure the plugs are tight and its got fresh oil through out... I'm frustrated because I hate having the CEL on, otherwise there isn't an issue that I can see or feel...

 

What plugs are you using? Those codes will come from a miss or a weak signal from CKP. Since you changed plugs and wires, I would pull the wires and give them a little squeeze to tighten them a bit. If that doesn’t do it I’d try different brand of plugs. Those are the two easy things to do.

After that I’d be looking at fuel regulator and making sure the filter housing is sealed. It really does sound like a fuel pressure issue since it is both cylinders when you are trying to send more fuel. If you don’t want to pull it apart you could find an inline fuel pressure gauge to test first.

 

They are NGK Iridium plugs, and they have a .040 Gap. OEM plug wires. I'll give the pinch of the wire ends a try

For the fuel pressure issue, would I not feel some sort of performance issue? I mean It's not terrible to get into the tank, but I just got the dam thing back together and don't want to go back in there 🤣🤣🤣

 

That is hard to say. You could pull the plugs and see if they have been running lean but you are running a screaming eagle map which would already be lean.

Fuel pressure gauges run about $100 to $200. Since you’re still up and running I’d find a dealer or Indy to test it. It is quick with the right tools. I checked my local dealer and they said about $50 using the gage without plugging into the ecm. So just a mechanical gauge. I’d spend the money before I tore back into the tank guessing. It’s supposed to be 55-62 on my 2011 RKC.

 

Ok, not bad advise Kinda makes sense since I'd didn't happen before and since the pump, regulator and filter were changed it is. I'll do that soon and update