Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Early twin cam Road King purchase need advice please

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-12-2020 | 11:42 PM
Adam76's Avatar
Adam76
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 951
Likes: 73
From: out there
Default Early twin cam Road King purchase need advice please

Hey guys, looking for advice on purchasing an early TC88 Road King.

I have the option of the '00 / '01 model with the forged crank and the more likely hood of being able to run gear cams..... Which I would do a carb mikuni conversion kit to get rid of the MM fuel injection, if there is such a thing as a "complete carb conversion kit" for tc88 FI to carb?

Or the later '03 models with the weaker crank, but better fuel injection plus any other upgrades I'm not aware of?

Im definitely going to be doing cams, and possibly a simple 95" - 97" BB kit if budget allows.

my other question is there's so much info and do many options regarding the cam tensioner upgrade. What it the simplest most cost effective option here? Some say just the tensioners / shoes by" cyco"? hydraulic tensioners? hybrid set up? or the full cam plate oil pump etc upgrade by SE or aftermarket? Are there really necessary?

Thanks for any advice.
 

Last edited by Adam76; 09-13-2020 at 01:29 AM.
  #2  
Old 09-13-2020 | 12:22 AM
dickey's Avatar
dickey
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19,822
Likes: 5,710
From: Florida
Riders Club Member
Default

Don't worry about the "weaker crank" deal..it ain't gonna grenade on ya from normal riding. I'm on my 3rd King & never a crank problem. What I WOULD worry about is the Magnetti Morelli EFI...parts are virtually impossible to get, and many shops won't mess with them. And, the carb conversion would be more trouble than it's worth.
They will all need the cam tensioner upgrade. Why not just get an '07 or newer?
 
The following users liked this post:
95th 1200 (09-13-2020)
  #3  
Old 09-13-2020 | 01:35 AM
Adam76's Avatar
Adam76
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 951
Likes: 73
From: out there
Default

Originally Posted by dickey
Don't worry about the "weaker crank" deal..it ain't gonna grenade on ya from normal riding. I'm on my 3rd King & never a crank problem. What I WOULD worry about is the Magnetti Morelli EFI...parts are virtually impossible to get, and many shops won't mess with them. And, the carb conversion would be more trouble than it's worth.
They will all need the cam tensioner upgrade. Why not just get an '07 or newer?
obviously can't afford to get a 2007 or newer bike if that's what y you mean, that's why I'm looking at the cheaper early tc88.

My while point is that I would get rid of the MM fi and convert to a mikuni hsr42 as many people have done. I'm not sure if you can buy the complete kit with everything needed, but if I can't, then I'm pretty sure it's just a 2001? Carb model wiring harness and a petcock plus pingel adaptor that I would need to finish the conversion? I prefer carb to efi anyway.

Thanks
 
  #4  
Old 09-13-2020 | 01:37 AM
Adam76's Avatar
Adam76
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 951
Likes: 73
From: out there
Default

If the 2003 - 05 models were the same price as the 99 - 01 models, l would just buy one of those, but unfortunately it's out of my purchase budget. Cheers
 
  #5  
Old 09-13-2020 | 04:07 AM
kojak's Avatar
kojak
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 2,846
From: Virginia
Default

I think what people are trying to tell you is all in after your desired mods, you’ll probably be in the same place financially vs buying a newer bike and not doing any mods. Lots of low mileage older bikes out there.
 
  #6  
Old 09-13-2020 | 04:40 AM
Ron750's Avatar
Ron750
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 28,839
Likes: 16,549
From: Wisconsin, USA
Default

I’ll sell you my bike. Runs great. Has dealer installed SE Cam Chain Tensioner and Oil Pump upgrade. 1 year old Cycle Electric Stator. New rear tire and recent 50 k service, except for the steering head adjustment. Has 52k now.

My tour pack broke, and a new lid is a $1k. So I fixed it with a Bungee cord. If you don’t want a tour pack , you’re good to go. I am the second owner. Bike had 2k mikes on it when I bought it in 2011. Has a stage one and runs and sounds nice. Always maintained by a dealer or indy, except for mid season oil changes, which I did, and used a torque wrench. Winter’s coming, good time for me to sell and look for a new retirement bike.


1 week before lid broke.

Bungee repair.



 
  #7  
Old 09-13-2020 | 07:03 AM
foxtrapper's Avatar
foxtrapper
HDF Community Team
Veteran: NavyVeteran: National Guard
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 5,357
Likes: 1,693
From: USA
Community Team
Default

For the cost of the carb kit, and the tensioner upgrade, and the aftermarket cams, you can buy a newer bike. Yes, you can make those upgrades piecemeal, but it’s still quite a chunk of change.

There are complete Mikuni kits for about half a grand, but they don’t say if they are for a mm conversion or not.

I did the cam tensioner shoe upgrade on mine, because at the time it was about the most cost effective. Now it is not, and I would go with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade instead. Changing cams, then perhaps the gear drive instead of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade.

In for a penny, in for a pound, change your inner cam bearings too. The bearings are cheap, the tools are not.

As for crankshaft concerns, how brutal you plan to ride? If burnouts, holeshots and wheelies are your thing, scissoring the crank is indeed a real thing. If you just want to ride and roll on the throttle while moving, the stock weaker crank will probably hold up just fine.
 
  #8  
Old 09-13-2020 | 07:24 AM
heavymetalthunder's Avatar
heavymetalthunder
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,933
Likes: 611
From: Kansas City, Missouri
Default

I'd look for a 2002. 1st year of delphi injection. Last year forged crank and timken bearing.
Hot forged with Timken Lefty Bearing '99 to '02, then cold forged '03 and '04 and cast '05 and '06
 
  #9  
Old 09-13-2020 | 07:31 AM
Adam76's Avatar
Adam76
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 951
Likes: 73
From: out there
Default

Originally Posted by foxtrapper
For the cost of the carb kit, and the tensioner upgrade, and the aftermarket cams, you can buy a newer bike. Yes, you can make those upgrades piecemeal, but it’s still quite a chunk of change.

There are complete Mikuni kits for about half a grand, but they don’t say if they are for a mm conversion or not.

I did the cam tensioner shoe upgrade on mine, because at the time it was about the most cost effective. Now it is not, and I would go with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade instead. Changing cams, then perhaps the gear drive instead of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade.

In for a penny, in for a pound, change your inner cam bearings too. The bearings are cheap, the tools are not.

As for crankshaft concerns, how brutal you plan to ride? If burnouts, holeshots and wheelies are your thing, scissoring the crank is indeed a real thing. If you just want to ride and roll on the throttle while moving, the stock weaker crank will probably hold up just fine.
Thanks, that's good advice. I planned on dealing with the cam chest anyways because I like to do some wrenching only bikes. The things that I do I know are done and done properly.

Yes, the cost of the carb conversion is not cheap and will probably cost me a bit, but then again I like carbs and get a brand new one with the conversion. Another benefit of the 00 - 02 model minimal to almost nil crank run out, so I can run gear drive cams.

As far as the crank goes, I think you're right. My 95" build will be stout, but I really don't abuse my motor or hammer it, so the crank probably won't be an issue. The only issue is probably sticking with chain drive cams set up.

All in all, the '03 model is probably the way to go, but it may take me a while to find one at my price point. Here Down Under they aren't as plentiful as you guys in the US.

Cheers.
 
The following users liked this post:
Eng5ive (09-13-2020)
  #10  
Old 09-13-2020 | 07:32 AM
Adam76's Avatar
Adam76
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 951
Likes: 73
From: out there
Default

Originally Posted by heavymetalthunder
I'd look for a 2002. 1st year of delphi injection. Last year forged crank and timken bearing.
Hot forged with Timken Lefty Bearing '99 to '02, then cold forged '03 and '04 and cast '05 and '06
ok thanks, so '02 - '04.... were there any problems with the first year of the Delphi efi in the '02 model?
 


Quick Reply: Early twin cam Road King purchase need advice please



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:16 PM.