Early twin cam Road King purchase need advice please
#1
Early twin cam Road King purchase need advice please
Hey guys, looking for advice on purchasing an early TC88 Road King.
I have the option of the '00 / '01 model with the forged crank and the more likely hood of being able to run gear cams..... Which I would do a carb mikuni conversion kit to get rid of the MM fuel injection, if there is such a thing as a "complete carb conversion kit" for tc88 FI to carb?
Or the later '03 models with the weaker crank, but better fuel injection plus any other upgrades I'm not aware of?
Im definitely going to be doing cams, and possibly a simple 95" - 97" BB kit if budget allows.
my other question is there's so much info and do many options regarding the cam tensioner upgrade. What it the simplest most cost effective option here? Some say just the tensioners / shoes by" cyco"? hydraulic tensioners? hybrid set up? or the full cam plate oil pump etc upgrade by SE or aftermarket? Are there really necessary?
Thanks for any advice.
I have the option of the '00 / '01 model with the forged crank and the more likely hood of being able to run gear cams..... Which I would do a carb mikuni conversion kit to get rid of the MM fuel injection, if there is such a thing as a "complete carb conversion kit" for tc88 FI to carb?
Or the later '03 models with the weaker crank, but better fuel injection plus any other upgrades I'm not aware of?
Im definitely going to be doing cams, and possibly a simple 95" - 97" BB kit if budget allows.
my other question is there's so much info and do many options regarding the cam tensioner upgrade. What it the simplest most cost effective option here? Some say just the tensioners / shoes by" cyco"? hydraulic tensioners? hybrid set up? or the full cam plate oil pump etc upgrade by SE or aftermarket? Are there really necessary?
Thanks for any advice.
Last edited by Adam76; 09-13-2020 at 01:29 AM.
#2
Don't worry about the "weaker crank" deal..it ain't gonna grenade on ya from normal riding. I'm on my 3rd King & never a crank problem. What I WOULD worry about is the Magnetti Morelli EFI...parts are virtually impossible to get, and many shops won't mess with them. And, the carb conversion would be more trouble than it's worth.
They will all need the cam tensioner upgrade. Why not just get an '07 or newer?
They will all need the cam tensioner upgrade. Why not just get an '07 or newer?
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95th 1200 (09-13-2020)
#3
Don't worry about the "weaker crank" deal..it ain't gonna grenade on ya from normal riding. I'm on my 3rd King & never a crank problem. What I WOULD worry about is the Magnetti Morelli EFI...parts are virtually impossible to get, and many shops won't mess with them. And, the carb conversion would be more trouble than it's worth.
They will all need the cam tensioner upgrade. Why not just get an '07 or newer?
They will all need the cam tensioner upgrade. Why not just get an '07 or newer?
My while point is that I would get rid of the MM fi and convert to a mikuni hsr42 as many people have done. I'm not sure if you can buy the complete kit with everything needed, but if I can't, then I'm pretty sure it's just a 2001? Carb model wiring harness and a petcock plus pingel adaptor that I would need to finish the conversion? I prefer carb to efi anyway.
Thanks
#5
#6
I’ll sell you my bike. Runs great. Has dealer installed SE Cam Chain Tensioner and Oil Pump upgrade. 1 year old Cycle Electric Stator. New rear tire and recent 50 k service, except for the steering head adjustment. Has 52k now.
My tour pack broke, and a new lid is a $1k. So I fixed it with a Bungee cord. If you don’t want a tour pack , you’re good to go. I am the second owner. Bike had 2k mikes on it when I bought it in 2011. Has a stage one and runs and sounds nice. Always maintained by a dealer or indy, except for mid season oil changes, which I did, and used a torque wrench. Winter’s coming, good time for me to sell and look for a new retirement bike.
1 week before lid broke.
Bungee repair.
My tour pack broke, and a new lid is a $1k. So I fixed it with a Bungee cord. If you don’t want a tour pack , you’re good to go. I am the second owner. Bike had 2k mikes on it when I bought it in 2011. Has a stage one and runs and sounds nice. Always maintained by a dealer or indy, except for mid season oil changes, which I did, and used a torque wrench. Winter’s coming, good time for me to sell and look for a new retirement bike.
1 week before lid broke.
Bungee repair.
#7
For the cost of the carb kit, and the tensioner upgrade, and the aftermarket cams, you can buy a newer bike. Yes, you can make those upgrades piecemeal, but it’s still quite a chunk of change.
There are complete Mikuni kits for about half a grand, but they don’t say if they are for a mm conversion or not.
I did the cam tensioner shoe upgrade on mine, because at the time it was about the most cost effective. Now it is not, and I would go with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade instead. Changing cams, then perhaps the gear drive instead of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade.
In for a penny, in for a pound, change your inner cam bearings too. The bearings are cheap, the tools are not.
As for crankshaft concerns, how brutal you plan to ride? If burnouts, holeshots and wheelies are your thing, scissoring the crank is indeed a real thing. If you just want to ride and roll on the throttle while moving, the stock weaker crank will probably hold up just fine.
There are complete Mikuni kits for about half a grand, but they don’t say if they are for a mm conversion or not.
I did the cam tensioner shoe upgrade on mine, because at the time it was about the most cost effective. Now it is not, and I would go with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade instead. Changing cams, then perhaps the gear drive instead of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade.
In for a penny, in for a pound, change your inner cam bearings too. The bearings are cheap, the tools are not.
As for crankshaft concerns, how brutal you plan to ride? If burnouts, holeshots and wheelies are your thing, scissoring the crank is indeed a real thing. If you just want to ride and roll on the throttle while moving, the stock weaker crank will probably hold up just fine.
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#8
#9
For the cost of the carb kit, and the tensioner upgrade, and the aftermarket cams, you can buy a newer bike. Yes, you can make those upgrades piecemeal, but it’s still quite a chunk of change.
There are complete Mikuni kits for about half a grand, but they don’t say if they are for a mm conversion or not.
I did the cam tensioner shoe upgrade on mine, because at the time it was about the most cost effective. Now it is not, and I would go with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade instead. Changing cams, then perhaps the gear drive instead of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade.
In for a penny, in for a pound, change your inner cam bearings too. The bearings are cheap, the tools are not.
As for crankshaft concerns, how brutal you plan to ride? If burnouts, holeshots and wheelies are your thing, scissoring the crank is indeed a real thing. If you just want to ride and roll on the throttle while moving, the stock weaker crank will probably hold up just fine.
There are complete Mikuni kits for about half a grand, but they don’t say if they are for a mm conversion or not.
I did the cam tensioner shoe upgrade on mine, because at the time it was about the most cost effective. Now it is not, and I would go with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade instead. Changing cams, then perhaps the gear drive instead of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade.
In for a penny, in for a pound, change your inner cam bearings too. The bearings are cheap, the tools are not.
As for crankshaft concerns, how brutal you plan to ride? If burnouts, holeshots and wheelies are your thing, scissoring the crank is indeed a real thing. If you just want to ride and roll on the throttle while moving, the stock weaker crank will probably hold up just fine.
Yes, the cost of the carb conversion is not cheap and will probably cost me a bit, but then again I like carbs and get a brand new one with the conversion. Another benefit of the 00 - 02 model minimal to almost nil crank run out, so I can run gear drive cams.
As far as the crank goes, I think you're right. My 95" build will be stout, but I really don't abuse my motor or hammer it, so the crank probably won't be an issue. The only issue is probably sticking with chain drive cams set up.
All in all, the '03 model is probably the way to go, but it may take me a while to find one at my price point. Here Down Under they aren't as plentiful as you guys in the US.
Cheers.
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Eng5ive (09-13-2020)
#10
ok thanks, so '02 - '04.... were there any problems with the first year of the Delphi efi in the '02 model?