From what I've understood it will not effect the dip-stick level. But it does increase the overall amount of onboard oil.

When the oil flow is stopped you don't have a flow, or a vacuum so nothing is going to drain back into the holding tank. Its equalized so to speak. If you did it would be slight or a bunch if you cracked a line.



And, iclick,

since the inlet an outlets to the bars are on the higher sides, that would be a positive point in keeping the debris from the welding during manfacture, drilling and tapping for the fittings to stay in the bottom corners. You don't have enough volume of flow at much of any RPMs to cause a suction on those small a lines to bring anything up from corners. Even if you did miss some during the clean out / blow out before adding the oil!

I find myself asking the same questionfor whenany engine comes off the assembly line? How do you really know it was clean during assembly? After all they can not QA every single engine 110%, they would never make any money at present MSRP. They would cost at least 25% more for that kind of assurance.

Regardless you can clean the pipe out as good as you think will be required, poke in a magnet, it is steel filings that your looking for, and rinse out with Kerosene and blow out with compressed air!Then inspectit with alittle lightlike in the article! It can't be to dirty in that place to start with.

After all this procedure has been done for many years.

I"m going to do it.

 

I have this one also, out in the Desert it seems to work somewhat, but still want to put an Oil Cooler on also to compliment

 

Hey Ram,

Let me know how that install goes. I'd be interested to bring my temps down a few notches myself ... my eggs get a little toasty sometimes!

 

What you could do that might clean it out more thoroughly than solvent or compressed air alone, is to attach water pressure to one end and allow it to flow for a period of time. That should remove most debris, including metal filings from drilling. The problem with that is that the interior may be bare steel, as I would assume it isn't exposed to the chrome-plating process, being a closed area. Because of that, you would have to blow out the residual water ASAP and pump in some oil to stop oxidation (rust).

 

I had the crashbar conversion done on my bike last year. It was fairly easy, and I made sure I got all the crud out of the bar before running the oil through it. Actually, there was no crud. The bar is clean on the inside. A couple of things.

The crash bar will get hot. Real hot.
If you accidentally brush bare flesh (like a leg) up against it, you may recieve a minor burn. Not like a header pipe, but damn near it. The inlet side was too hot to touch bare handed. The outlet side was still hot, but it did not scaldmy hand, so this tells me that yes, the oil is getting cooler as it travels up and around. I ran it with my lowers on, and the paint on theparts that wereincontact with the barmelted from the heat. Since this was all inside the lowers, and behindthe front cover piece, I did not notice it until I went to take the lowers off.

It takes about one extra quart of oil. That's a good thing.

Finally, a topic that has been debated to death on the VTF forum. Oil pressure.
I went back to a conventional oil cooler after someone mentioned that maybe, and the word is maybe, the oil pump is not designed to push all that much oil up and over such an angle through such a large opening. The oil pump, as it was explained to me, is gear driven and puts out a finite amount of pressure designed to move a certain amount of oil through the engine. Yes, the valves and rocker boxes are as high as the top of the crash bar, but all the holes and orafices that the oil travels through are a certain size and are designed to meet a certain amount of oil pressure and flow. The crash bar is a large orafice, and maybe the oil pump should not be trying to push all that oil straight up through such a large pipe. I.E. it's easier to push fluid straight up through a soda straw, than a piece of 1/4" PVCpipe. Yes when it gets to the top it will flow down the other side and in doing so may pull some oil up and through the bar in a vacuum siphon effect, I don't know. And yes, there are HD oil coolers that mount as high as the crash bar, but the tubing and piping in them is very small compared to the crash bar. Anyway, call me a worry wart, and a hang wringer, but that is why I went back to a standard oil cooler.

On the other hand I ran the crash bar oil cooler for one year with no problems, and it really droppedthe oiltemps.
But that's me, I'm funny that way.

Oh, after much debate, the general consensus over on the VTF is that the stock oil pump is capable of pushing all that oil up, over, and around the crash bar, and that it is not an issue to worry about.

Mark

 

That's something I hadn't considered, but is a valid point. I have an HD Premium cooler on my '07 SG, and I've noticed that when the thermostat opens (~180° on the faring-mounted gauge) the oil pressure decreases around 2 psi. I approached Jagg about adding a second cooler on the left downtube and in series with the first cooler, and they said that oil pressure might be a factor in that decision, but didn't say it wouldn't work. I've heard of others doing this without problems. The Jagg rep did say that the HD cooler was 4x as restrictive as their coolers, which was his only concern in adding an additional one.

I've abandoned the second-cooler idea since the single unit and other mods are keeping temps under control. At this point I never see >200° while constantly moving, and since adding the ability to switch to a richer PCIII map on the fly when needed it hasn't read >210°, even in traffic.

 

So whats' the info on this oil drain hole that there was drilled in the crash bars . It was mentioned but never explained in the info? Is it just a plau Plug usedto drain the oil out of the bar or what? And if there is a drain plug in the barsdosn'tit just dain the downside of the bar?Sohow does it drain the up side of the bar?? Or is there a drain plug on both sides of the bar?

 

JBA111,

I can't tell you about the drain hole. When I ran mine, I only drilled two holes, one for inlet, and one on the other side for outlet. I did not drill and tap a drain hole. To me, that was just one more thing that could start leaking. So, when I changed my oil, I just used the plug on the bottom of the engine. I did not try and drain the crash bar.

Mark

 

I approached Jagg about adding a second cooler on the left downtube and in series with the first cooler, and they said that oil pressure might be a factor in that decision, but didn't say it wouldn't work. I've heard of others doing this without problems.


I'm doing that right now, but in a different configuration. I am running the old HD 10 row oil cooler (back when it was made by Jagg for HD) down low on the front, and a Spurgin Bad Boy heat sink style oil cooler on the left down tube. The Spurgin is the only one I have found that will clear the Lower Fairings. I run them in series where the oil goes through the low mounted one first, and then up to the Spurgin before returning to the adaptor.

Mark

 

Please let me know how this works in case I should decide on a second cooler in the future.