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Speed wobble going in straight line '02 Electra Glide

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  #11  
Old 07-08-2020 | 01:20 PM
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Something else to consider; are you just overly sensitive after all this started? You are always going to get some handlebar movement when following in dirty air. It’s pushing the fairing around and with it your bars. Maybe it’s always been like this and now you are paying more attention.
 
  #12  
Old 07-08-2020 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by predatornut
Something else to consider; are you just overly sensitive after all this started? You are always going to get some handlebar movement when following in dirty air. It’s pushing the fairing around and with it your bars. Maybe it’s always been like this and now you are paying more attention.
predatornut - I thought about it, and I am probably more in tune with it now after the big wobble, and it is possible that little bit of fearing wobble was always there and now it is translating in to something bigger, but I hope I would of noticed something like this before.
I am curious if others have issue in straight line riding.
 
  #13  
Old 07-08-2020 | 01:48 PM
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Anyone (outside of HD engineers) know what the "design speed" of all EG's is?

I bet it's NOT 80+...
 
  #14  
Old 07-08-2020 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by NORTY FLATZ
Anyone (outside of HD engineers) know what the "design speed" of all EG's is?

I bet it's NOT 80+...
Funny you should mention this. Owners guide says and i quote:
Do NOT exceed 80 mph (130 km/h) when carrying a passenger
Do NOT exceed 90 mph (145 km/h) riding solo.

But 65-75 riding solo is just about unridable at this point.
 
  #15  
Old 07-08-2020 | 04:08 PM
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With mileage on the forks, would pull them apart to rebuild them. Hence seals may not be leaking yet, but the guides you can bank are worn to hell. Also, this will allow you to check the fork tubes to make sure they are not bent, as well the triple clamps to make sure they are not bent too.

Front motor mount, will bank that is all cracked to hell on the bottom, and needs to be replaced at your mileage.
With new motor mount, would put the engine alignment tools on the bike to get the rear end back in line if needed, then double check the swing arm to make sure that its tram with the level frame once the alignment tools are pulled. Also make sure to pull from the swing arm center detent's, to center line of rear tire axle to make sure the rear tire axle adjusters are set correctly to square the rear tire to the swing arm.

As for swing arm, did not state if your are still running the original cleve bloc bushings or have swapped to spherical yet, what condition the outer rubber swing arm bushings are in, and if the swing arm shaft end nut has been check to make sure its still 45ftlb torqued. Also, not stating if you are running a progressive link or some other device to help hold the rear end in line/tram to the frame. Hence front motor mount shot, the rear swing arm bushings shot to allow side to side. out of tram movement in the rear, and maybe some undesired movement in the front forks from worn guides, and the bike is going to be all over the map at speeds trying to hold it in a straight line.

Also, until 06, rear tire on the touring bikes is off set from the front tire/center line of frame. So final tweak is to pull the rear tire to center line, so both front and rear tires are tracking the same ground.
 

Last edited by Dano523; 07-08-2020 at 04:14 PM.
  #16  
Old 07-08-2020 | 05:32 PM
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check the rear swingarm bushings.
 
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  #17  
Old 07-08-2020 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
With mileage on the forks, would pull them apart to rebuild them. Hence seals may not be leaking yet, but the guides you can bank are worn to hell. Also, this will allow you to check the fork tubes to make sure they are not bent, as well the triple clamps to make sure they are not bent too.

Front motor mount, will bank that is all cracked to hell on the bottom, and needs to be replaced at your mileage.
With new motor mount, would put the engine alignment tools on the bike to get the rear end back in line if needed, then double check the swing arm to make sure that its tram with the level frame once the alignment tools are pulled. Also make sure to pull from the swing arm center detent's, to center line of rear tire axle to make sure the rear tire axle adjusters are set correctly to square the rear tire to the swing arm.

As for swing arm, did not state if your are still running the original cleve bloc bushings or have swapped to spherical yet, what condition the outer rubber swing arm bushings are in, and if the swing arm shaft end nut has been check to make sure its still 45ftlb torqued. Also, not stating if you are running a progressive link or some other device to help hold the rear end in line/tram to the frame. Hence front motor mount shot, the rear swing arm bushings shot to allow side to side. out of tram movement in the rear, and maybe some undesired movement in the front forks from worn guides, and the bike is going to be all over the map at speeds trying to hold it in a straight line.

Also, until 06, rear tire on the touring bikes is off set from the front tire/center line of frame. So final tweak is to pull the rear tire to center line, so both front and rear tires are tracking the same ground.

02 have the spherical bushings and heavy swingarm.

 
  #18  
Old 07-08-2020 | 06:41 PM
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You probably dont have spokes but if you do, check the rear spokes. had this happen to me once and that was what it turned out to be
 
  #19  
Old 07-08-2020 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
With mileage on the forks, would pull them apart to rebuild them. Hence seals may not be leaking yet, but the guides you can bank are worn to hell. Also, this will allow you to check the fork tubes to make sure they are not bent, as well the triple clamps to make sure they are not bent too.

Front motor mount, will bank that is all cracked to hell on the bottom, and needs to be replaced at your mileage.
With new motor mount, would put the engine alignment tools on the bike to get the rear end back in line if needed, then double check the swing arm to make sure that its tram with the level frame once the alignment tools are pulled. Also make sure to pull from the swing arm center detent's, to center line of rear tire axle to make sure the rear tire axle adjusters are set correctly to square the rear tire to the swing arm.

As for swing arm, did not state if your are still running the original cleve bloc bushings or have swapped to spherical yet, what condition the outer rubber swing arm bushings are in, and if the swing arm shaft end nut has been check to make sure its still 45ftlb torqued. Also, not stating if you are running a progressive link or some other device to help hold the rear end in line/tram to the frame. Hence front motor mount shot, the rear swing arm bushings shot to allow side to side. out of tram movement in the rear, and maybe some undesired movement in the front forks from worn guides, and the bike is going to be all over the map at speeds trying to hold it in a straight line.

Also, until 06, rear tire on the touring bikes is off set from the front tire/center line of frame. So final tweak is to pull the rear tire to center line, so both front and rear tires are tracking the same ground.
Thanks Dano, i will be going through the forks probably this weekend. All good advice here, i got some work to do.
 
  #20  
Old 07-08-2020 | 06:45 PM
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I remember an old thread talking about the same wobble at cruising speeds. This individual checked every thing under the sun. Found the upper clamps on the fork tubes loose. Have you checked these?
 


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