Since your buddy hasn't owned the bike that long I suppose he probably doesn't have the original ECM to swap in and try, which is too bad because that's the next thing I would do---sounds like that tmax unit may be dead if you can't get it talking to your laptop... Perhaps their support will have some other troubleshooting ideas you might try before shipping it to them though

I believe the thundermax unit actually replaces the bike's ECM and isn't a separate 'tuner' like a powervision, but I've only read a little about them some time ago and never worked on one...

 

So starting system is fine. Ignition and fuel system isn't. But you can get the fuel system to pressurize, by jumpering it. ECM does tell fuel pump to come and coil to spark. Though you do have to wonder if it has a bad input or output. Without have another to chuck in, you really need to get out a meter and check. Verify that the voltage is not coming out of the ECM. Does the starter need any kind of permission from the ECM? I don't think it does/did.

Myself, I think it is a dumb idea to buy a bike without stock parts without ECM. Maybe there in a box in your buddies garage. That would be easiest. Though if he has mods that would lean it out, you would not want to ride it.

I think hooking up your laptop to the thunsermax is good idea. Problem is, if never done it before you don't know for sure who is at fault. But I would try.

Is there anything in the electric manual that would check input to ECM? For dumb *** mods, the electric manual is a manual on electrical stuff on harleys, made by harley.


It is cranking over. I am surprised we made it this far without someone say it should be load tested. Unless you think low voltage to ECM is causing weird stuff. I kinda doubt it if cranking normal speed, Could try starting with charger on. Easy, but kinda doubt it.

It could be coil, but sorta doubt that cause other things are not work either.
I am pretty sure this is an old wives tale. 14 volts is 14 volts. we are using jump packs now.
I wondered why people say this. From everything I googled it, the concern is a spark near the battery and hydrogen gas.
That is the way the old ones were,

 

maybe tssm problem

 

[QUOTE=Zerk;19008387]So starting system is fine. Ignition and fuel system isn't. But you can get the fuel system to pressurize, by jumpering it. ECM does tell fuel pump to come and coil to spark. Though you do have to wonder if it has a bad input or output. Without have another to chuck in, you really need to get out a meter and check. Verify that the voltage is not coming out of the ECM. Does the starter need any kind of permission from the ECM? I don't think it does/did.

Myself, I think it is a dumb idea to buy a bike without stock parts without ECM. Maybe there in a box in your buddies garage. That would be easiest. Though if he has mods that would lean it out, you would not want to ride it.

I am pretty sure this is an old wives tale. 14 volts is 14 volts. we are using jump packs now.
/QUOTE]

if it does replace the ecm, them that is a good idea to see maybe his buddy has it. I would check the manufactor for clarification before I test it all apart.

Aa for the battery jumping from a car, the amperage of the car can dry the bikes electrical system. Voltage in the case, does not matter. The car should not be running. If it is running you can potentially try the electrical system.

With a person that has not clue, this can easily happen.

 

I doubt you will get the bike to start without the car engine running, The bike is going to draw the amps. Not like the car is shooting it with big amps.

The car is just a source. Would you be worried about to big of battery? Also amps are restricted by fuses, except for the starter.


I suppose if you cranked and cranked on it, but I wouldnt do that with a good bike battery.

Also previous thundermaxes replaced ECM.

 

If trying to jump a bike with tiny little (>8 gauge) cables it's probably best to have donor vehicle running to charge bike battery for a few minutes before trying to start, and having vehicle running shouldn't be a problem unless its voltage regulator isn't working properly. If you're paranoid, regular automotive sized jumper cables will easily provide enough juice without donor vehicle running for starter on bike spin over motor. Typically people screw up something by reversing connections.

Based on fact PC/laptop isn't able to communicate w/thundermax I'm guessing that's the problem regardless of whether or not some jumping/charging snafu may have fried it, but that could also just be a configuration issue.

 

You should not give electrical advice. A car battery without the car running will start a bike. A average touring battery has 26Ah a car or truck will have 4 times that amount. Why wouldn't this work? There is never a reason to start the car to jump a bike. A big battery fully charged is 12.68 Volts a running car could be up to 14.5 this is where you can run into trouble with a bike. Sorry but the math is the math and this is coming from a ex electronics teacher at the high school level.

 

The times I have tried to jump bikes or cars from an auto not running, has not worked. Have you ever done it?

The math is the resistance of the cables, bad connections.

A bike runs at 14.5 same as car. It is not going to draw more amp than the starter motor was built for, unless somethign wrong with starter.

I've never seen a vehicle start, with donor car not revved up for a bit.

The jump packs they sell now, say good for cars, bike, atvs.


People teach, who well you know. Plus know that we know your experience level, feel free to ask me for help, and hush,

 

The cables running from the battery to the starter and ground are probably about 8 gauge I havent measured them. Before I started a car I would leave the cables hooked up to the car for about 2-3 mins and then crank it over. The stators and VR's in our bikes are the weak link.

 

Agree, but would feel better if he had done it before. Make sure right software version, ect. But agree, it is something to look at.