He already said he put it in top gear.......

 

Did you get it figured out?

 

Did you get it figured out?

 

Hi all,
so, thank you so much for all the answers. Still haven't attempted anything further - was waiting for all the answers so I could review what was going on. So, to confirm, I CAN actually move the back wheel - but only like an inch at a time and only by too and fro - back then forwards hard - it then kind of jolts the motor forward a little at a time. It is only a five speed (for the comment above - not six speed). Yes, it's in top gear, sparkplugs are out, adjustable pushrods are fully collapsed (not even wound out one thread). I tried my foot on the wheel and no way. Only way to move is by sitting straddling back wheel from the side and using two hand jolting as above. I've not tried to use the electric starter - although, I can't see why it would harm anything. To review, i removed rocker covers, rockers, pushrods, lifters, cams, camplate, chains, tensioners, & sprockets.
Installed s&s 510c cams, new front and rear bearings, Screamin' eagle hydraulic camplate, tensions and sprockets, front chain (used existing rear chain), new s&s lifters and new s&s adjustable pushrods. timing marks all lined up, everything torqued to correct specifications. Longer pushrods to the outside (exhaust) - shorter to the inside (intake).

 

is it worth mentioning too, that the bike has not been started for about two months now - just been sitting there. I'd also done a full oil change and with the hydraulic upgrade camplate kit, a new oil pump put in. point being, maybe cylinder walls are dry in the bore a little which might make it hard to turn over by hand?

 

ok guys, just want to check my method as well - starting to doubt myself! So, I start by having all four adjustable pushrods completely collapsed - zero turned out. Then, I want to start with the rear cylinder, so I turn the motor in direction of travel until exhaust pushrod on rear cylinder goes up, then down, then intake of rear cylinder goes up then down, then check that piston on rear cylinder is at top dead centre (with pencil and flashlight down sparkplug hole). Then on the rear cylinder pushrods, screw out the exhaust pushrod by hand until there is no up and down slack. When there is no up/down slack, then turn adjuster down four full turns (as per S&s instructions), then lock off with nut. move to rear cylinder intake pushrod and do the same as above.
Once their done, - move the motor around again in direction of travel until front exhaust pushrod goes up, then down and then front intake pushrod goes up then down - then check that front cylinder is on top dead center. Adjust both front cylinder pushrods in the same was as above.
Does that all sound right please?

 

Since you want to rethink everything, …
Exactly what S&S pushrods do you have?
Why did you install all of them before you tried to adjust them?
Before you installed the pushrods, could you turn the motor over with the rear wheel?
You do know the lifters have to bleed down after adjustment before you attempt to turn the motor?
There are numerous videos on this, S&S has them, Fuel Moto has some, and others. Have you reviewed them?
(they will show you how to determine the base cycle of the cylinder without using a pencil.)

You do what you want, but I would NOT use the starter to try and turn the motor because it is too hard to do it by hand; too much of a chance to bend or break something if things are not right.
I would take the pusrods out and see if it is still binding, then go from there.
.

 

[QUOTE=IKnowNot;18879233]Since you want to rethink everything, …
Exactly what S&S pushrods do you have?
Why did you install all of them before you tried to adjust them?
Before you installed the pushrods, could you turn the motor over with the rear wheel?
You do know the lifters have to bleed down after adjustment before you attempt to turn the motor?
There are numerous videos on this, S&S has them, Fuel Moto has some, and others. Have you reviewed them?
(they will show you how to determine the base cycle of the cylinder without using a pencil.)

You do what you want, but I would NOT use the starter to try and turn the motor because it is too hard to do it by hand; too much of a chance to bend or break something if things are not right.
I would take the pusrods out and see if it is still binding, then go from
Lol,.I've determined that this guy is jerking everyone's chain here,why would anybody keep typing books when like you said there's plenty of youtube videos? I'm done, OP go ahead and crank that motor over until the battery goes dead, then install new battery and repeat whole process lol

 

[QUOTE=IKnowNot;18879233]Since

 

After adjusting the first cylinder pushrods, let the lifters bleed down until you can easily spin them by hand. This could take a half hour or longer. If the lifters are not bled down and easily spin by hand, you run a risk of bending a valve. Do not rotate the engine without the lifters bled down!