The 'cheap' Harley ones. Here. They look great and work very well. The best of any bike I've ever owned.

For the 2020 RGS I waaaaay overcomplicated the install. Turns out the connector wire for the left grip is under the gauges and all you do is clip the tie wrap and plug in. No cable kit to buy or run to the battery.

 

The 12" KST Spearhead bars arrived and got them installed. The only difficulty was searching for my Dremel tool to grind off the locator nub from the inside of the right brake assembly. Never did find the tool (it's somewhere) so found other means to grind it flush.
Was careful to measure how far back the handgrips with the stock bars set ones hands and marked it on a piece of tape on the tank. Also measured the distance between the grip ends. The KST bars resulted in moving the grips back 1" while maintaining the same height above the ground and the same distance between the grip ends.
Not as much as the 2" I wanted but I'll see how it works out.

Couple of things I noticed. First, the bars aren't that adjustable rotating the bottom tube that attaches to the fork tree. They do rotate back some but the clamping section on each side of the bar then contacts the top of the fork tube cover.
Second, the bottom tube is barely wide enough and should be about 1/2" wider, to give more clearance for the speedo /tach shroud. It's really tight and was a bitch to put back. Took a few breaks to cool off before I broke something.
Third, the instructions' torque recommendations of 30 ft.lbs all around are suspect. The shop manual calls for 20 ft.lbs, which is a huge difference.
Going with the 14" bars would have created problems for me, imo. Based on the hydraulic lines, the bars would have to be much more vertical to have enough play than the 12". So, my goal of moving the grips back wouldn't be achieved.

Seem like decent quality bars. Have had far worse install nightmares with other bikes. Was it worth the $400? Probably half that for nicer looking bars and the 1" of rear grip set. But, I've burned a lot more than that on useless 'great ideas'. No longer own a boat so not as many opportunities to Bust Out Another Thousand (BOAT).

 

UPDATE
The install just didn't seem right to me. Then I realized I had installed the bottom crossbar backwards. Fixing it took a while but at least I didn't have to rethread the cables. Once that was done the bars could rotate backwards freely and the speedo/tach shroud installed easily. Also freed up range for the brake and clutch lines. READ THE DIRECTIONS.

The KST bars did not move the grips back at all, while maintaining the same height above the ground and the same distance between the grip ends; a bit disappointing.
The angle of the grips is a bit different (seems more comfortable).

I'll see how they work out. At this point, I've installed them so not planning on trying to return them. I may try the 14" bars in the future and see if I can get the grip setback I want. Have a trip coming up in 4 weeks from Philly to Key West, so the 'no changes to the bike' is about to take effect. Want to get some seat time and put on some miles before I head South.

 

Pulled the trigger on 14" KST bars, to swap with the 12" set. Ordered extension cables for the right and left buttons and the left heated grip controller. May not need them but playing it safe. Will post pictures when finished.

 

i bought the same 14” bars for the same bike but have yet to install them. I was getting concerned with your earlier post. Please keep us/me posted. Really interested in how things turn out for you and what other pitfalls you encounter. Their instruction video makes it look like a walk in the park.

 

It's not difficult, more like tedious. The best thing to do is to take the right brake and left clutch assemblies off the bars first.

Remove the main fuse under the left Tupperware under and behind the seat. If you don't do this you can get errors from disassembling the wiring.

MAKE SURE YOU COVER THE TANK of remove it. I did and one of the assemblies slipped and dropped on the foam sheet covering the tank. I would be still crying about it if it hadn't been covered.

[For Road Glide] Remove the two screws on each side of the speedo/tach housing. Turn the ignition switch to the right, push down on the housing next to the cover that's under the ignition switch and pull up on the cover with a fingernail or really small screwdriver/pick where you will see a tiny notch. There's a tab holding that cover. It will pop up and you can slide it out. Now the whole speedo/tach assembly can come off. You have to remove three connectors. Again you will need a small flat screwdriver or pick. Take the bottom right connector off last. The release tab is on the bottom (thanks Harley) and is a bitch to press up on to release the connector. Take you time and it will come off. After you've done it a few times it gets easier.

Trace the wires coming out of the bars to the connectors and disconnect all of them. What I did was use thin blue painters tape and a sharpie to write numbers on pieces to stick on the ends as I took them off. That way I could match numbers when putting it back together. Also helps to pulll out the cables a bit so you can see all the connectors and take a picture. Comes in really handy later when you try to remember how things were arranged.

Once the cables are disconnected, undo the 4 bolts in the center handlebar clamp. If you're taking the bars out for some reason and plan on putting them back, I would use a sharpie (I use black and ordered a sliver sharpie for marking black surfaces) to make a mark on both the lower clamp surface and the bar in the center, so you can line them up later. If you're replacing the bars, don't do this.

Remove the bars and put on a bench. With the KST bars, you will need to take care of the pin sticking up from the base of the clamp on the bike (4:30 in the video). Take a center punch and drive the pin flush with the clamp.

IMPORTANT. with the bars removed, cut the tie wraps for the hydraulic lines near the clamp. This frees up the hydraulic lines for the taller bars. If you don't do this binding may be an issue.

You can then remove the switch assemblies from both sides and pull the wires out of the bars. Lots of YouTube videos to show how this is done. Note there are small clips holding the switches to the bars, once you remove the metal covers. Use a small flat screwdriver to pop the clips on each side (6:20 in the video). Again, take lots of pictures for each side, showing how the wires (especially the exposed non-shielded parts) are arranged to not get pinched by the metal shrouds. Seems dumb but I mark the right and left side parts with painters tape labeled with a sharpie pen.

Now that the original handlebars are bare, you're not done. What I did was put the bars on the bench with the bar ends facing down on the bench surface. Helps to use a large piece of cardboard under the bars. I then use a sharpie pen to draw a line along the bottom edge of the bars and circles around the bar ends. Why? So when you assemble your new bars, you can get an idea of how far apart to set your new bar ends, if the handlebars are adjustable like the KST set I bought. It's also useful for measuring the new bars vs the old to see if they're even going to work for you.

You also have to remove the centering nubs from each side metal switch housings. For me one side came off clean using a center punch, hammer and a solid swift bang. The other side broke off leaving a stub. Had to use a grinder to take it off.

For the KST bars which are adjustable, I prefer to run the wires through each side before I put place them into the lower horizontal bar (3 pieces to the handlebar set). For both sides, you're going to have two sets of wires to thread through the bars (assuming you have heated grips). For each side, do NOT spray WD40 to be a 'lubricant' for the wires. Use a lubricant that is made for electrical wires like CRC available in Home Depot. A can is $3 and will make your life a lot easier.

On the right throttle side, there will be the throttle tube assembly which goes in the end and the right switch assembly wire which goes into the cutout (will be obvious with the bars in front of you). First thread the throttle wires through the end and out the cutout. Then use electrical tape to join the connectors for the switch assembly (10:00 in video). Push the supplied (by KST) nylon sock cable (7:50 in video) from the bottom of the bar up and out the cutout. Use the nylon sleeve to pull the wires through the bar. This is where the lubricant helps. Repeat the process on the other side.

Unlike the video, I then put the bars into the lower horizontal piece that clamps to the bike. Note the instructions call for using 30 ft.lbs to tighten the 4 bolts. I think this is high and used 20 ft.lbs. They have locktite on them so it shouldn't be an issue.

This is where the cardboard marked earlier comes in handy. Measure the lower bar and mark the center of it. Measure the handlebar marks on the cardboard and mark the center point between them. Draw a vertical line with a Carpenter's square on the cardboard, at the center point between the old bar end marks. This makes it super easy to assemble the bars and have each side at the same angle and bar end width before you make adjustments. Place the lower bar center point over the center line you just drew. Adjust the bar ends so they are each in the circles you originally drew. Now you know the bars are at the same angle and equal distance from the center. Now you can adjust the bar ends by marking on the cardboard.

Before you place the bars into the clamp, position the hydraulic lines so they will be under the bar on each side. Also measure the width of the clamp and use a sharpie to mark the center of the clamp. This is important as you can use this mark to center the bars. Then place the bars in the clamp. Two of the connectors for the tach/speedo assembly go under the bars. Measure the width of the lower horizontal bar and make a mark (in my case black bars to silver sharpie) in the center of the bar. Match the mark with the one you made on the clamp. Now you know the bars are centered. Install the upper clamp and hand tighten the bolts. Adust the bars to the desired height and torque the bolts to 20 ft.lbs. Reconnect the connectors and reinstall the speedo/tach shroud. Install the main fuse and left Tupperware.

 

DEGLIDE114, thanks for taking the time to share all of that info. Much appreciated. Would love to see some pics after the final install of the 14”ers.

 

The 14" bars arrived.

Watched the install video again and made sure the brake lines were on top of the bar/clamp (15:00 in the video).However, the brake lines were still too tight to fit the speedo/tach enclosure.After a LOT of fiddling around, I noticed there is a plastic block on the right (throttle) side of the steering head that holds four hydraulic lines. Popped that out of the holder and did get more play in both left and right (clutch & brake) lines.

Still not enough to be comfortable about binding at full lock, especially turning right.

Then popped the two hydraulic lines (clutch and front brake) out of the plastic block, keeping the other two there and put the block back in the holder. Also, found a tie-wrap holding one of the lines to an electrical connector near the block on the right side of the steering head and cut that.Substantially more play now with no binding at full lock left and right. Once I get everything buttoned up, plan on going back and adding some tie wraps to support the lines (no longer in the plastic block) without causing binding.

One other note, at 17:50 in the video it’s recommended to torque the riser clamp bolts to 30 ft.lbs. Checking the shop manual, Harley recommends 16-20 ft.lbs.

 

Curious how tall you are , im looking at 12” kst but keep rethinking if 14’s would be better. Im 5’10 and right now feel like the stock bars are way to low for me. Any photos of both bars installed. Thanks again for posting this up.

 

Here is a pic of mine with the 12 in. Spearheads, these are around 3 in. higher than the stock bars. I am 5' 8" on a good day
with 30" inseam. Since this picture was made I have adjustment to the handlebar width to match to the stock bar width.
Just installed a CVO seat yesterday and more than likely be making some more adjustments.